This is a rear swaybar kit made up by whiteline. Costs about $200 for the whole kit from any local auto parts shop, its made up by order so it took about a week for mine to be made and get sent out to me. Ok the kit comes with everything you need to put it in except for some decent instructions. The instructions are horrible so i decided to write up this little walkthrough to grease the way for anyone else.
WARNING: If you have an aftermarket exhaust you will probably need to get it adjusted, this only cost me $50 but it depends on who you know. The problem is with the left hand side bracket when the car is let back down off the jack it pushes up against the exhaust. Its relatively simple to fix, there is a 90 degree vertical bend so the exhaust misses the diff and axle, this needs to be changed to a 90 degree vertical and 45 degree horizontal angle.

Firstly get the back of the car up and the rear wheels off. Do this by putting the jack under the diff and jacking her up till the diff is all the way up and you can get a couple of stands under there. Put the stands under the front pivot point where the leaf spring meets the chassis so there is no pressure on the suspension otherwise it will make the placement of the sway bar inaccurate.

Remove the rear seat so you can see the floor, there will probably be lots of dirt and a good vacumn will probably be on the books. I found an old national bank atm recipt from 1988 and a cheap plastic necklace down there, since i dont wear plastic necklaces and i wasnt born till 1986 im sure they wernt mine, so be prepared.

There are two flat little trapezeoide brackets that make a great template for drilling holes so line them up so that they sit with one side in line with the chassis rail and the other inline with the begining of the boot wall. now you have to drill two 10mm holes.

Now get the 'lady shoe' bracket that the sway bar hooks up to and secure it to the car with the shorter bolts provided. Make sure that you use the two middle holes because the top two are for later model holdens. On the drivers side you will have a problem with the brake line but just carefully bend it out of the way and it will all fit in snuggly.

Once it is secured drill the last hole for the front of the bracket making sure you put the large washer before the locking nut for obvious resons. Get them as tight as you can without distorting the bracket.

Now loosely screw up the U bolts to the axles but first make sure that you pull the brake line away from the axle so that you dont crush it when you tighten the U bolts.

Arrange the neophrene rubbers on the long threaded bolt as showen in the picture. Make sure you have the lipped ends facing inwards on both the bracket and the sway bar.

Tighten the U bolts on the axles making sure to get the brackets as vertical as possible but only tighten the U bolts till they are pulled tight over the axles otherwise when you let the car back down it will pull on the brackets to much and bend out the floor of your car, you dont want that.

Put your Rear seat back in and apply the rubber grease to the rubbers on the threaded bolt, put your wheels back on and feel the difference when you take it on its maiden test drive. I couldnt believe the difference in cornering, it was that good i had to order in the upgrade kit for the front sway bar as well. I'll keep you posted. Big thanks to Josh for his help.