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This guide will detail the installation of a car alarm into the HR and also how to tie it into the Central Locking that was detailed in a previous guide.

The above kit was bought from eBay through this store: http://www.techieonthemove.com or http://stores.ebay.com.au/TECHIE-ON-THE-MOVE-Car-Accessories where there are always a few being sold.

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The first thing to do is decide on the placement of the alarm, siren, dash light and reset switch. In the image above I have the dash light, this is the light that flashes when the alarm is added (and by the way the one in this kit is very bright, it will definitely be noticed from outside the car in day or night and will serve as a deterant for thieves).

What you might need to do (and infact what I did) was cut the wire from the light, slide it through the hole you have in the dash for it, then reattach it.

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On mine there was already a hole available from where the original face plate mounted before the stereo was put in the car. This made for perfect placement for the light. Ideal placement is somewhere visible from outside the car, so that any nefarious types looking into the car will see it flashing and think twice about having a go at stealing your pride and joy...or in my case my car...

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Back at the alarm the other end of the light wire plugs into a specific fitting, there are four separate sets of wires, the light, the reset switch, siren/sensors and wiring to go to central locking.

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Next comes the siren, it has a strong base plate that will be held by three screws (supplied in kit). Where you mount the siren is up to you but remember that it shouldn't be easily accessible from outside the car incase thieves see it and cut the wires before breaking in. I put mine under the bonnet against the firewall which is pretty much the accepted place but I've heard of people putting them inside the car (what sort of thief would drive off with that screaming in their ears is the logic) or in the boot or under the rear seat etc the placement is up to you.

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Here I am choosing the placement of the siren, I've made sure it is a spot that can't be accessed without opening the bonnet and also that it is far enough away from any heat sources like the exhaust. After you've placed the siren you'll need to have a hole through the firewall to plug the wires from the siren into the wiring harness from the alarm. Generally though I recommend leaving the siren until the last thing to plug in, you can tell from the dash light when the alarm is active or activated. If you want to test the car with the siren in you can also stuff it full of rags to muffle it quite effectively.

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As we can see in the image the siren is now mounted on the firewall and the wires are running back through the firewall. It is recommended to test closing of the bonnet and any other linkages anywhere near where you are mounting the siren to be sure nothing will collide with it.

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The main wiring harness plugged into the alarm, the wiring diagram is pictured later in the guide, suffice to say this harness supplies the alarm with power and also ties in to the indicators so that when activated the indicators will flash.

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This is the reset switch for the alarm, I'm not too sure what it does but thought I'd wire it in anyway...

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I've decided to put the reset switch inside the glove box, it's easily accessible there but also invisible from outside the car and has the option of being locked. The only problem is of course that it's easy enough just to bust the glove box apart from underneath...

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The reset switch plugs straight into the alarm next to the dash light wiring, this leaves us with the last vacant position for the last wiring harness that holds all the probe wires (door switch wires, knock sensor, siren etc).

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This is the last wiring harness plugged into the alarm, as you can see there is a hefty amount of wiring associated with a car alarm, so when choosing a position to mount it be sure to make it somewhere that you can get wires into and out of easily and that can access where it needs to access. I would recommend under the passenger side dash or even in the front kick panels.

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Next I have to plug the shock sensor in, this sensor is what sets the alarm off if the car suffers an impact of any sort. The knock sensor has an adjustment screw that enables you to set how "touchy" you want the alarm, until you are ready to test it I'd recommend turning it right down to the minimal setting.

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With the shock box plugged in you can see just how much wiring is involved with the car alarm, depending what sort of systems you want to have activated you may not need it all though. For instance I don't have power windows so I won't be using the optional "12 second power windows" wire.

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The pink wire from the alarm goes to the red (activation) wire of the siren. As you can see in the photo there is plenty of wire available so you can have your siren just about anywhere in the car.

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I decided not to screw around under the drivers side dash too much looking for the front indicator wires, so what I have done here is exposed the brown wire on the front indicators and then run a wire from each of them back to the brown wires from the alarm. Then later I wired the same wire to the rear indicator wires (which were easier to find) of the same sides. If you have a proper wiring diagram for your car and are confident you can find the correct wires under the dash then it would be much neater to splice your alarm wires into the indicator wires there.

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Next we move onto the door switches. I was missing a switch on the passenger side front so I needed to "borrow" one from the wifes car for this job. Pictured is the switch above. As you can see they are a simple item which earths when the door is open and is an open circuit when the door is closed. I had a LOT of trouble getting the alarm to work with these switches, and was also disgruntled to find that the alarm would only be going to one switch. What I ended up doing (and recommend) was wiring the alarm into the interior light wiring, that way when any door is opened, the light comes on and the alarm gets the signal and activates (if it is armed).

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This is a better look at the door switch (disassembled). As you can see it has a plastic part which is what the door pushes against, a spring which pushes the switch against the door, and a sleeve that pushes through a hole and supports the switch (it is also what the wire earths against). When assembled the wire goes over the plastic knob which then pushes into the sleeve and at the other end of the sleeve the wire slides over the end of the plastic knob holding it all together.

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This is just an image of one of the indicator wires from the alarm wired into the extension wire that I have then sent to the front indicators. In the image I have shoved the alarm in behind one of the kick panels so that it doesn't get in the way if I drive around before finishing the installation. As you can see in the image there is a horrendous amount of wires that have to be wired in and then tied up out of the way.

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This is just a look at the door switch wire, the blue wire will go to earth and this green wire goes across under the dash and will be spliced into the interior light wiring. I found that if the two wires were wired together it would effectively give you hazard lights, so I was toying with the idea of putting a switch between them for that sort of occasion. I also found though that you could do the same thing with the flasher unit so maybe that will be a work guide for the future...

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This is a look at the wiring harness that goes to the rear tail lights and indicators, the pink wire on the HR goes to the left hand indicator and the purple wire to the right hand. If you follow these wires back you can splice your brown wires into them at the drivers' side of the car either under the dash or at the bottom of the kick panel. If you do this though remember to make sure you use the correct wire from the front to the same on the back, otherwise when your indicators flash the power may travel through the wiring past the alarm and cause the wrong indicator to flash on the back as well.

The installation diagram says to wire the rear cable into the brake lights at the pedal but I wanted the rear indicators to flash not the brake lights when the alarm was armed/disarmed/activated.

AlarmDiagram

This is the diagram for the central locking, the alarm has wires that will splice into some of these wires allowing the alarm to lock the car when armed and unlock the car when disarmed.

FullAlarmDiagram

This is the full alarm diagram copied from the installation booklet.

Diagram1

Diagram one from the installation booklet.

For cars equipped with central lock and lock motor on drivers side door.

This is the way I got the central locking to work with the alarm in my car, common was earth and the up and down wires were the brown and white wires on the control unit for the central locking.

Diagram2

Diagram two from the installation booklet.

For cars equipped with central lock but no motor on drivers side add master motor and rod.

Diagram3

Diagram three from the installation booklet.

For cars equipped with central lock and a control switch on drivers side.