On the main unit there is two wiring blocks, one is for the power, earth and ignition and the other for the wires that will send signals to the other switches.

Here I am showing a fresh block from the kit waiting for wires, the wires I have pushed through the door and the already set up wires from the main control unit. You'll need to push the separated wires into the new block in matching positions to their colour on the block form the main unit. This is shown in the next image.

Here I have pushed the separated wires into their block and am lining the blocks up to lock together. Note how the wire colours match the colours in the other block. You may need to sit the blocks closely together to make sure you are putting your wires into the correct slot when you are setting the block up.

Here I am pushing the door trim out of the way to show how I have mounted and secured the wiring. I have used an existing channel in the door to sit the plastic blocks into so that they don't push against the trim.

Ideally when doing any sort of wiring work on your car it is good to have a crimping kit and some rolls of wire. You can buy all this sort of equipment from stores like supercheap auto. The kit shown contains a crimping tool and various fittings, then I also bought some red and black wiring (for eath and power leads if necessary) and I keep a knife nearby for cutting wires or removing plastic insulation form the outside of the wire. I also keep electric insulation tape nearby for securing and insulating wires where necessary.

Mounting of the earth can be done to virtually any point of steel in the car, I just found a screw under the dash and loosened it off to mount the earth lead.

With the proper tools wire stripping is an easy job, I usually run the tool around the wire in the same point a few times then pull it straight off, leaving some nicely exposed wiring.

Another "tool" for this job is some decent lubrication. I use Kopr-Kote, running it inside the door channels, any gearing etc it is especially necessary on these old doors with mechanisms that have gone stiff from decades of lack of use (especially the rear doors) but any lubrication will help the power window units work easily. Graphite grease could also be perfect for the window channels.

Here I am under the dash preparing to set up the wires to the doors, I generally run any wiring as high up under the dash as possible, over the steering column etc so that it can't be seen and won't fall down.

Here is an example of the wiring running along the top of the heater/demister, as you can see the original wiring is far ore visible than this new stuff.

Now on the passenger side of the car I am running the wires for these two doors into the kick panel of that side.

This close up shot shows the wiring for the front door running through to the outside while the rear continues down.

Here again I am showing how the wiring runs from the inside of my car into the door through a weather seal mounting hole.

This is another shot of the wiring going into the front passenger door. I mounted it higher than the drivers side (between the two hinges) but it is still not visible when the door is closed and barely noticeable when opened.

As with the main control unit you have smaller templates suppplied for the single units on the other doors.

Due to the lack of carpet in the car and my wish to hide the wiring completely, I have decided to not just run it below the edge of the chrome strip where the original wires run but rather actually below it.

These strips can be very difficult to remove. If the screws will not come out a good technique is to put the screw driver into the screw and give it a decent knock with the hammer, this tends to free them up and allow you to remove them. There are also similar screwdrivers that when knocked will twist and actually help you to remove the screw.

I have here removed the strip and you can see the channel below it where I want the wires to run.

To run the wires through I naturally need to add a hole, making sure this stays below the strip to hide it I've drilled through into the kick panel section. There are quite a few layers of metal in there though so don't go too low.

At the rear there is already an available gap to allow you to run your wires into the pillar.

And finally at the rear door I have added a hole to get the wires back out and into the rear door. I could have done this on the outside of the pillar behind the lip of the door but I would have had to remove the door to drill the hole, I decided to rather just drill the hole where shown and have an inch of wiring visible when the door is opened.

Getting the wires through is the difficult part, I can't get inside any of these sections to grab the wires with my hand and guide them through so what I am doing here is guiding a stiff bit of wire through the hole, when it gets to where the wiring is I'll tie it to the wires and pull the whole lot back to the hole.

Here I have the end of the wire after pushing it through the hole.

I decided to widen the hole after seeing how difficult it would be to get the ends of three wires through it.

I am now showing how I secured my "probe" wire to the end of the wire I aim to pull through into the door channel.

And here I am pulling the third and last wire through the hole, it was actually relatively easy to get them through into the channel. It was harder on the rear door due to the probe wire being hard to guide to the hole required to reach these wires but persistance and patience got the job done.

On the rear I decided to do all three wires at once, this was simply because the probe wire was very difficult to get through even once, I was concerned once I got a wire or two in there I may not be able to get it through again. I have secured the three wires together with some electric tape and attached the probe wire to them to allow me to pull them through.

With the wires through you can here see them laying in the channel, once the cover is back on they will be completely hidden.

Here are the wires at the passenger side back door, as you can see they aren't very noticeable, and once secured into the door will also stay out of the way of anyone climbing in and out of the car.

Back at the front door you can now see how when the plate is back in position you would never be able to tell there was any wires there at all.

Again back to the rear door I am showing how the wires run into the door. A gromet would be good for the hole. Otherwise the wires aren't very noticeable and won't pinch when the door is closed due to the factory gap between the door and the pillar.

Here is the mounting at the passenger side rear, the windows don't go all the way to the bottom on this model of car so I was able to mount the motor higher than on the front. Also I chose to mount the brackets on the front of the gear end instead of the back and will use a spacer on the end that mounts to the skin to support the brackets.

Grabbing one of the supplied spacers I found it did the job well of holding the bracket away from the door skin while still securing it.

When the gears are mounted and everything is secured you will find a small screw in the kit that will go into the gap on the gears and lock them together.

This shows me screwing the screw into the gears to lock them together.

These caps in the kit will cover the old hole in your trims where the handle used to mount. There is various sizes with a screwed end and a cap end that screws in. For my doors the trim is fairly thin so the thinnest of caps is ideal.

Here I am pushing the rear part of the hiding cap into the old hole for the handle in the trim, I did have to widen the old hole a little to take this cap.

Here is a demonstration of the cap mounted, as you can see it covers the old hole perfectly and non-intrusively. Later I intend to make new door trims for this car and simply not even have a hole there but for now these caps cover it perfectly.

As you can see the old hole in these trims was noticeably smaller than what was required to fit the cap, I simply marked where it was required to be cut with a pend and gouges it out with a drill tool I have. Two minutes work and the hole was covered with the cap.

Here it is, the front drivers door with the main control unit mounted and the trim back on. It turned out very neat and the boss (my wife) was happy with its appearance and its functionality, she now uses it daily and I've gotten no complaints (and that's saying something).

Here is the drivers side rear door completed.

To mount the power for the unit I looked at the fuse box on the car. I didn't want the power windows to always be active but only when the ignition was active, and I considered that when the power windows would be used the windscreen wipers would likely not be, so to that end I decided to mount the power wire to the same fuse as the windscreen wipers on the fuse box.

This is the old winscreen wiper wire on this car, it's virtually made for this job with an extra terminal available for me to push the wire onto.

Going through my crimping kit I have found the correct fitting to attach to the wire.

Now I am using the crimping tool to crimp the fitting onto the exposed wiring I did earlier.

Here is the finished fitting attached to the wire.

Now I've pushed the power windows power wire onto the fitting attached to the windscreen wiper wire.

And here it is all attached to the fuse box and ready to go.

Quicktime Movie of power windows in action

This is a little flick of the power windows working on the drivers window in the wifes car, excuse the quality it was done on my old digital camera. You'll need a player (codec) that will play quicktime movies to view it. This was by far the best door on the car (likely the most free as it is the most used being the drivers door).

Looks like the webpage will load and display the image for you if you have a codec on your system.

The worst door on this car will only go down a few inches with the power windows but considering I couldn't put it down much further by hand originally due to its stiffness I am not concerned.

Here is a copy of the templates, if you should wish to print them out to check the size of the units they should be right to be printed onto an A4 sized sheet of paper.

Instruction booklet, Page 1

Instruction Booklet, Page 2

Instruction Booklet, Page 3

Instruction Booklet, Page 4

Instruction Booklet, Page 5

Instruction Booklet, Page 6

Instruction Booklet, Page 7

Instruction Booklet, Page 8

A wiring diagram for the complete 4 door kit.