The bottom returned edge has been removed and the next sizing adjustment is to slightly and neatly flatten the bottom area of the radiator opening. Make sure the 10 mm returned lip has not been cut away as this is needed for strength. This flattening process is made easier and neater by the fact the subframe is out of the vehicle and on the floor. I prefer to use a brickies swedge as the perfect tool for this job. You can pick these up for around $2 at most tool outlets or discount type stores. A must for any panelbeater.

It is important at this stage to re-install the grill. It is actually a structural member that holds the front together. The reason for re-installing this is so that the bonnet (hood) lock panel positon can be determined. Add a few bolts to the bonnet lock panel and tack weld it to the cut top support panel.

Now the whole subframe with intact grille is flip upside down and a piece of timber is place underneath along side the top radiator opening. The brickies swedge comes into play again and the top support and bonnet lock panel are evenly swedged using the timber as a stepping tool. This allows a neat riser to be formed for the radiator to clear the top support.

Here is what the finished swedging should look like. Note the timber is alongside the swedged area. When viewed from the top it has the appearence of a factory pressing.

This is the basic installation ... Neat and Discreet... The radiator is mounted using Nutserts (a rivet gun type of threaded insert nut, making a captive nut conversion) The lock panel can now be welded to the top support along its bolt holes. This restores structural strength to the support member. To remove the radiator in normal service operations the lock panel and top support are now unbolted from the grille and subframe as one unit. The major benifiet being it allows very easy acsess to the radiator- as well as the extra room created for the motor. To remove a radiator and bonnet lock panel with this conversion takes about 15 minutes.

This series shows how we convert a FC Holden subframe for accepting a red motor conversion. These cars came with a 'grey' motor - much smaller and expensive to overhaul. Red motors are later inline six engines fitted to Holdens since '63. Similar in design - but so much more stronger/cheaper. The first modification is for the Red motor radiator ('63 EH Holden standard ) to be fitted -so as the installation has the the neatest factory appearance possible. This modification allows for the fitting of a red motor with fan AND spacer.

Here we have the original subframe ready for modification. It doesnt have to removed from the vehicle but it certainly helps.Follow along and you will see why.

This is an EH 149 or standard radiator . It has been re- cored and mounted backwards in its frame. The original top mounted filler point has been sealed up and a Commodore right angle filler neck has been installed. Make sure the larger bottom hose outlet has also been installed to be compatible with modern alloy water pumps. Some of the older pumps used a smaller hose . Cost of this radiator conversion is about $250 at most shops.

Using a 1mm cut off disc on the 4" grinder the radiator opening needs to be enlarged slightly. Making sure you have the top support fitted in its original location.