Slideshow for Scotty's Bathurst Monaro[b]

Date: 22/01/07 Well its been a long time since I have updated the 'current jobs in the shop' albums

Most would think I have been doing very little customer work - and they are right. This is gunna change in 2007 - My projects need funding and I need to pay bills. So here is the start of a very special large resto project - that I swore I wasn't gunna be doing any more of.

This is a genuine Bathurst HT Monaro that has sat in storage for a very long time. Scotty who owns this gem is a panel beater- but has nowhere to do this project. Scotty is a very persistent bloke and it took a fair amount of convincing and dollar Date: 22/01/07 This is a genuine Bathurst HT Monaro that has sat in storage for a very long time. Scotty who owns this gem is a panel beater- but has nowhere to do this project. Scotty is a very persistent bloke and it took a fair amount of convincing and dollars waving to get me to agree to take this one on. He is quite happy to hand it over to me for a full Monty streetneat style restoration - as close to concourse as we can get it .

This car was sanblasted, panel beaten then primed decades ago. Unfortunatley - thats as far as it got. The resident possums took over and subsequently the rust set in from leaking possums. Date: 22/01/07 This car was sanblasted, panel beaten then primed decades ago. Unfortunatley - thats as far as it got. The resident possums took over and subsequently the rust set in from leaking possums.

Even though this car looks straight - underneath all that panel work lies disaster. Rust from Possum piss and lots of body filler is only the start of the problems. Scotty and myself have decided the only remedy is to re skin the whole car- so for no Date: 22/01/07 Even though this car looks straight - underneath all that panel work lies disaster. Rust from Possum piss and lots of body filler is only the start of the problems. Scotty and myself have decided the only remedy is to re-skin the whole car- so for now its off to the sandblasters.

Rust is a common theme here at streetneat. Where better place to start on a project than the chassis? In this case - its a subframe and Scotty's original subframe wasn't rusty - but was accident damaged. In the back ground you will see a NOS headlight Date: 15/01/07 Rust is a common theme here at streetneat. Where better place to start on a project than the chassis? In this case - its a subframe and Scotty's original subframe wasn't rusty - but was accident damaged. In the back ground you will see a NOS headlight section - that will be used to repair this donor subframe from our stock of spares I keep for this model.

This area I call the subframe ears. Where tis connects with the car is a very common trap for moisture- and making matters worse- the factory never really had much paint in this area.This ear isnt bad - but it will be replaced entirely. Date: 15/01/07 This area I call the subframe ears. Where tis connects with the car is a very common trap for moisture- and making matters worse- the factory never really had much paint in this area.This ear isnt bad - but it will be replaced entirely.

But first we will tackle the headlight area that has been poorly repaired. This is an eBay item Scotty sourced- its a shame to cut it up- but would be more of a waste if it wasn't used. Date: 15/01/07 But first we will tackle the headlight area that has been poorly repaired. This is an eBay item Scotty sourced- its a shame to cut it up- but would be more of a waste if it wasn't used.

The damage isn't really all that bad- but its not good enough to leave in place as we are chasing a pretty high level of restoration - so if its wrinkly - it needs removing. Date: 15/01/07 The damage isn't really all that bad- but its not good enough to leave in place as we are chasing a pretty high level of restoration - so if its wrinkly - it needs removing.

We can see that this is showing its age and when viewed from the inside of the engine bay with the bonnet up- its going to be obvious. -not to mention the asscociated parts wont fit as well as they should. Date: 15/01/07 We can see that this is showing its age and when viewed from the inside of the engine bay with the bonnet up- its going to be obvious. -not to mention the asscociated parts wont fit as well as they should.

I have un picked the old headlight panel and have started repairing the mounting flange. Also while the area is accessible- I have ironed some minor wrinkles from the inner guard with my slapper and dolly. Date: 15/01/07 I have un picked the old headlight panel and have started repairing the mounting flange. Also while the area is accessible- I have ironed some minor wrinkles from the inner guard with my slapper and dolly.

The new panel has been carefully unpicked and readied for installation. Date: 15/01/07 The new panel has been carefully unpicked and readied for installation.

Before any welding takes place - the new panel is tucked into position and every associated part is bolted in to check for alignment. Of course everything fits like new. Date: 16/01/07 Before any welding takes place - the new panel is tucked into position and every associated part is bolted in to check for alignment. Of course everything fits like new.

These rails where in pretty good shape for their age. I opened this area up at Dr Scotts request - stuck my finger in and gave it the all together clear- then had to fabricate a new section and weld it in. Oh well - better we know now than later... Date: 16/01/07 These rails where in pretty good shape for their age. I opened this area up at Dr Scotts request - stuck my finger in and gave it the all together clear- then had to fabricate a new section and weld it in. Oh well - better we know now than later... Also note that I had to remove a small amount of rust against the other sides head light area joining flange.

This is the under side view of how the new panel ended up looking. Some crafty positioning of the spot welder over the old spots makes this repair vitually undectable- especialy once the subframe has been powdercoated. Date: 16/01/07 This is the under side view of how the new panel ended up looking. Some crafty positioning of the spot welder over the old spots makes this repair vitually undectable- especialy once the subframe has been powdercoated.

Care was taken with the replacement of both of Scotty's ears- one I had in stock - the other we removed form Scot's original subframe Date: 16/01/07 Care was taken with the replacement of both of Scotty's ears- one I had in stock - the other we removed form Scot's original subframe

Whilstthe car is at the blasters I got stuck into preparing some of the loose parts. This bonnet has been acid dipped along with two new 1/4 panels scotty has bought. Date: 30/01/07 Whilst the car is at the blasters I got stuck into preparing some of the loose parts. This bonnet has been acid dipped along with two new 1/4 panels Scotty has bought.

Unfortunately the bonnet had been drilled to accept an accessory moulding - not right for a GTS in our opinion - so the holes had to welded and file finished- as well as some other older damage. Date: 30/01/07 Unfortunately the bonnet had been drilled to accept an accessory moulding - not right for a GTS in our opinion - so the holes had to be welded and file finished- as well as some other older damage.

Underneath a fan blade had let go and luckily only damaged a brace- so this too was of course welded up. I have been washing down the bare metal with Metal prep - a phosphoric acid to rid the surface of any forming rust while I work and handle th Date: 31/01/07 Underneath a fan blade had let go and luckily only damaged a brace- so this too was of course welded up. I have been washing down the bare metal with Metal prep - a phosphoric acid to rid the surface of any forming rust while I work and handle the bare steel.

Two very expensive 1/4 panels- over $12000 worth! This will make the end resto job so much nicer and although is a lot of money - its worth it . These too have been acid dipped. Date: 31/01/07 Two very expensive 1/4 panels- over $12000 worth! This will make the end resto job so much nicer and although is a lot of money - its worth it . These too have been acid dipped.

I scrubbed both sides of these panels with the metal prep acid as too many hands had left their mark on the surfaces. I left these overnight for a good cleanup. Next day I etch primed the inside with PPG black etch and treated the outside to PPG Date: 31/01/07 I scrubbed both sides of these panels with the metal prep acid as too many hands had left their mark on the surfaces. I left these overnight for a good cleanup. Next day I etch primed the inside with PPG black etch and treated the outside to PPG DP40. The black etch on the inner will allow us to weld the panels to the car- the epoxy primer would just burn off.

While the sandblaster took his sweet time to get around to doing Scotties Monaro - I took the opportunity to gather the many parts for this Monaro and prep them prior to Powder coating and Zinc plating. As body filler cannot be used in the Powder Date: 13/03/07 While the sandblaster took his sweet time to get around to doing Scotties Monaro - I took the opportunity to gather the many parts for this Monaro and prep them prior to Powder coating and Zinc plating. As body filler cannot be used in the Powder coat process- The wrinkles had to be metal finished. This inner guard had sustained some minor damage and the trick was to leave some of the factory wrinkles and massage out the additional non - original ones!

This trailer load- and not all of it can be seen - represents about a months worth of accumulating, sorting, repairing, replacing, and reconditioning the many components that bolt and hold a car together. This process is very tedious and time consum Date: 14/03/07 This trailer load- and not all of it can be seen - represents about a months worth of accumulating, sorting, repairing, replacing, and reconditioning the many components that bolt and hold a car together. This process is very tedious and time consuming - not something that truly shows where the time has gone - but a very necessary step. Most if not all the parts are unique to the car itself- so its not just a simple matter of going out and buying new bolts! There are way too many and most wont be available. The frustrating part is any paint and grease must be removed or the parts wont plate or coat properly. Time spent now will make the end result very worth it.

After many many weeks of harassing the blaster- we finally got the car back. The job was done very well and took over 7 hours. Some parts had to be mechanically stripped first as not to distort the panels. A Boot lid was sourced from Melbourne and Date: 15/03/07 After many many weeks of harassing the blaster- we finally got the car back. The job was done very well and took over 7 hours. Some parts had to be mechanically stripped first as not to distort the panels. A Boot lid was sourced from Melbourne and the previous owner had scrapped away some paint- this meant the panel had to be paint stripped first to make an even surface to blast. The insides of the boot lid were not done to avoid warpage.

Graham our resident painter camped on the door step of the blaster until it was ready for epoxy priming with DP40. The insides were treated to PPG black etch primer as was underneath. Date: 15/03/07 Graham our resident painter camped on the door step of the blaster until it was ready for epoxy priming with DP40. The insides were treated to PPG black etch primer as was underneath.

The 1/4 panels were exposed around the edges and left alone as we are removing them. The DP40 was not applied in these area as not to cause problems with the plasma cutter we plan to use to whip the panels off Date: 15/03/07 The 1/4 panels were exposed around the edges and left alone as we are removing them. The DP40 was not applied in these area as not to cause problems with the plasma cutter we plan to use to whip the panels off

I had the car back from the blaster only an hour before I dived into it. Not for the faint hearted- but I love it! The plasma cutter- or 'butter cutter' as I like to call it- makes panel deletion a breeze. Yep taking a torch to a are car makes y Date: 16/03/07 I had the car back from the blaster only an hour before I dived into it. Not for the faint hearted- but I love it! The plasma cutter- or 'butter cutter' as I like to call it- makes panel deletion a breeze. Yep taking a torch to a rare car makes you feel good!

Minutes later - this is the result! The objective is to remove the bulk and go back later to remove the remnants- that process is timely. Date: 16/03/07 Minutes later - this is the result! The objective is to remove the bulk and go back later to remove the remnants- that process is timely.

I had both sides off and mostly unpicked inside two days. The under bits were in surprisingly good order - except for some previous repairs in the wheel arches- these will be replaced.The substructure is quite strong - absolutely no need for braci Date: 15/03/07 I had both sides off and mostly unpicked inside two days. The under bits were in surprisingly good order - except for some previous repairs in the wheel arches- these will be replaced.
The substructure is quite strong - absolutely no need for bracing - and as long as we dont drive the car like this it wont distort. The 1/4 panels do provide some strength - but are mostly decoration. There was little point taking too many measurements- as this car had its 1/4's replaced previously. The new boot lid didn't fit very well anyhow- so now this gives us the opportunity to dial in our preferred gaps.

Some previous repairs left me scratching my head- there was no real need for this one as what was underneath was pretty good. Date: 15/03/07 Some previous repairs left me scratching my head- there was no real need for this one as what was underneath was pretty good.

As the 1/4's had been fitted once before- this made my task a little more involved as far as cleaning away remnants was involved. The trick is not to damage the underlying metal- so a lot of time and effort is put into doing this archaeological style o Date: 15/03/07 As the 1/4's had been fitted once before- this made my task a little more involved as far as cleaning away remnants was involved. The trick is not to damage the underlying metal- so a lot of time and effort is put into doing this archaeological style of work.

This is about the extent of the bracing! Prior to removing the 1/4 panel- I made this block as a spacer for the internal window brace. This will be removed after fitting the new 1/4 panel. Date: 15/03/07 This is about the extent of the bracing! Prior to removing the 1/4 panel- I made this block as a spacer for the internal window brace. This will be removed after fitting the new 1/4 panel.
Note the braze from the previous fitment. This is removed the best we can and the area spot blasted

Here is evidence of the previous removal - I take far more care and diligence than this. All these attacked areas are welded up, linished, sandblasted and etch primed before the new panel goes on. Date: 16/03/07 Here is evidence of the previous removal - I take far more care and diligence than this. All these attacked areas are welded up, linished, sandblasted and etch primed before the new panel goes on.

Ugh! those wheel tubs have gotta go! No disrespect to Scotty's early talents decades ago - but it was also his idea these areas be readdressed. Date: 16/03/07 Ugh! those wheel tubs have gotta go! No disrespect to Scotty's early talents decades ago - but it was also his idea these areas be readdressed.

Here is the opposite side cleaned up and panel beaten back into shape- this was not so damaged but still required a bit of finessing. Date: 16/03/07 Here is the opposite side cleaned up and panel beaten back into shape- this was not so damaged but still required a bit of finessing.

The rear window area was measured for size - and even after removing the remnants - never changed its profile. The lower tulip panel is also being replaced- but left intact for now until the new 1/4's are fitted. Rares make new tulip panles so we Date: 16/03/07 The rear window area was measured for size - and even after removing the remnants - never changed its profile. The lower tulip panel is also being replaced- but left intact for now until the new 1/4's are fitted. Rares make new tulip panles so we will see how they shape up!

Here is a good reason to wear safety gear! This shattered disc could have stuffed my whole day up... Date: 16/03/07 Here is a good reason to wear safety gear! This shattered disc could have stuffed my whole day up...

Another previously replaced panel slowing me down but not defeating me. i use the remnants as leverage to assist in removal. As this had been plug welded- the method of removal was different. Basically I had to linish it away to reveal the brace un Date: 17/03/07 Another previously replaced panel slowing me down but not defeating me. I use the remnants as leverage to assist in removal. As this had been plug welded- the method of removal was different. Basically I had to linish it away to reveal the brace underneath. then finesse that back into shape

The Left rear lower guard area was in pretty good shape and only required a few pinholes to be oxy welded up. Date: 17/03/07 The Left rear lower guard area was in pretty good shape and only required a few pinholes to be oxy welded up.

The car was taken outside to spot blast any remaining rusty bits. Date: 17/03/07 The car was taken outside to spot blast any remaining rusty bits.

...like the roof rails and anywhere a panel had been joined. These areas were then given a coat of etch primer. I also spent a long time in blowing out accumulated sand! Date: 17/03/07 ...like the roof rails and anywhere a panel had been joined. These areas were then given a coat of etch primer. I also spent a long time in blowing out accumulated sand!

Look mum no pants! The Monaro looks a little undressed at present - but its necessary in order for getting to its underbits. Date: 17/03/07 The Monaro looks a little undressed at present - but its necessary in order for getting to its underbits.

A whole Saturday Morning was spent in cutting these wheel tubs sections from one of my donor cars. While they are slightly rusty - they are about as good as one can expect on a car this age. After much hunting around wrecker's- I decided what I had Date: 18/03/07 A whole Saturday Morning was spent in cutting these wheel tubs sections from one of my donor cars. While they are slightly rusty - they are about as good as one can expect on a car this age. After much hunting around wrecker's- I decided what I had in stock was far better- not to mention cheaper for Scotty . Wreckers want to sell whole 1/4 panels normally- not wheel tubs on their own. Hmmm more unpicking and blasting here now...

Well that wheel crappy tub has been split and removed - after much unpicking, sandblasting and wrestling with. No drilling - only industrial swearing and wrenching away with pliers followed by a light grinding and some persuasion with a panel hammer b Date: 20/03/07 Well that wheel crappy tub has been split and removed - after much unpicking, sandblasting and wrestling with. No drilling - only industrial swearing and wrenching away with pliers followed by a light grinding and some persuasion with a panel hammer back into the correct form.

With the salvaged tub in its final welded place - you would never know- especially after new sections have been fabricated and installed on the lower reaches of the tub. The most common comment for the week was- where did I get the NOS tub from ?. Date: 22/03/07 With the salvaged tub in its final welded place - you would never know- especially after new sections have been fabricated and installed on the lower reaches of the tub. The most common comment for the week was- where did I get the NOS tub from ?... That tells me I must be doing something right!

Notthe clearest of pics- low batteries will do that. But wher ethe tramp rods attach has accumulated rust - so a patch is required. This is on the inner half of the tub we didn't need to replace Date: 20/03/07 Not the clearest of pics- low batteries will do that. But where the tramp rods attach has accumulated rust - so a patch is required. This is on the inner half of the tub we didn't need to replace

A card board template is quickly made... Date: 21/03/07 A card board template is quickly made...

...and transferred to some useable metal on the old tub. I like to use the Homopathy appraoch - fix like with like. When oxy welded in situ - and linished - you would never know. Date: 21/03/07 ...and transferred to some useable metal on the old tub. I like to use the Homopathy appraoch - fix like with like. When oxy welded in situ - and linished - you would never know.

Not the clearest of pics but the LH inner wheel tub with its final blended patch. Even though this will get a covering of tar later to replicate the factory finish - all these patched area will be given a wipe of final glaze filler to smooth over th Date: 31/03/07 Not the clearest of pics but the LH inner wheel tub with its final blended patch. Even though this will get a covering of tar later to replicate the factory finish - all these patched areas will be given a wipe of final glaze filler to smooth over the welds and linishing marks.

Moving to the other side of the car - more rust and poor repairs are evident. The first place to start was the spare wheel recess- a very comon area to corrode. Date: 22/03/07 Moving to the other side of the car - more rust and poor repairs are evident. The first place to start was the spare wheel recess- a very comon area to corrode.

I didn't have to look far for the correct rough shape to repair the spare wheel area. This lump of metal came from a HG subframe inner guard area. Date: 22/03/07 I didn't have to look far for the correct rough shape to repair the spare wheel area. This lump of metal came from a HG subframe inner guard area.

After sandblasting and trimming down - I quickly folded an edge and ran that edge through my shrinker stretcher machine to form the required curve. Date: 22/03/07 After sandblasting and trimming down - I quickly folded an edge and ran that edge through my shrinker stretcher machine to form the required curve.

Before removing the rusted area- the new patch is clamped into place to check for fit and to mark out the area to be trimmed away. Date: 22/03/07 Before removing the rusted area- the new patch is clamped into place to check for fit and to mark out the area to be trimmed away.

...and then oxy hammer welded into place. I was pretty happy with the end result. This area will be linished and given a smear of glass filler to seal it up from future possible corrosion and to smooth the repair off- this of course will be done Date: 22/03/07 ...and then oxy hammer welded into place. I was pretty happy with the end result. This area will be linished and given a smear of glass filler to seal it up from future possible corrosion and to smooth the repair off- this of course will be done before the new 1/4 panel is fitted.

Ughh! Time to tackle the replacement of this ugly wheel tub. The car had seen life as a drag car - we are slowly getting rid of any evidence of that. Date: 22/03/07 Ughh! Time to tackle the replacement of this ugly wheel tub. The car had seen life as a drag car - we are slowly getting rid of any evidence of that.

Basically here is the method of removal- the bulk is trimmed away with the plasma cutter- then the remnants are wrestled away with pliers- snapping the spot welds. No drilling as we dont want a piece of Swiss cheese. Date: 23/03/07 Basically here is the method of removal- the bulk is trimmed away with the plasma cutter- then the remnants are wrestled away with pliers- snapping the spot welds. No drilling as we dont want a piece of Swiss cheese.

With the remnants removed- the flange is panel beaten straight again - all spot welds linished and any holes from pulled spot welds are filled and linished too. Note the centre brace on the tub had to be massaged back into shape. The previous rep Date: 23/03/07 With the remnants removed- the flange is panel beaten straight again - all spot welds linished and any holes from pulled spot welds are filled and linished too. Note the centre brace on the tub had to be massaged back into shape. The previous repairer overlooked that detail.

Looking up inside the tub - you can see the inside of the brace and the centre line I will be butt welding it to.
The outer edge can be spot welded as per factory - the inner area once butt welded and linished will look factory Date: 23/03/07 Looking up inside the tub - you can see the inside of the brace and the centre line I will be butt welding it to.
The outer edge can be spot welded as per factory - the inner area once butt welded and linished will look factory

A lot of careful clamping and manipulation into position - and the spot welding can begin. I find its better to start from the middle and work out. Date: 24/03/07 A lot of careful clamping and manipulation into position - and the spot welding can begin. I find its better to start from the middle and work out.

Note I have linished the flange allowing better conduction for the spot welder. I have been buying special arms to get into all sorts of areas- its a time consuming process to constantly change the arms- but works well. I cannot afford a 20k Hir Date: 24/03/07 Note I have linished the flange allowing better conduction for the spot welder. I have been buying special arms to get into all sorts of areas- its a time consuming process to constantly change the arms- but works well. I cannot afford a 20k Hirane spot welder so I have to make do with this one.

The completed installed new R/H wheel tub. This was a little more work than the other side due to more complex shapes that had to be accounted for. Date: 31/03/07 The completed installed new R/H wheel tub. This was a little more work than the other side due to more complex shapes that had to be accounted for.

I manufactured this lower front area of the wheel tub by hand and while it was necessary to have it on the hoist for access- it was real fight to work on it. Everything had to be done at arms length and then final welded inches from my face. Becau Date: 31/03/07 I manufactured this lower front area of the wheel tub by hand and while it was necessary to have it on the hoist for access- it was real fight to work on it. Everything had to be done at arms length and then final welded inches from my face. Because we have stripped the Monaro so far back, the structure was not strong enough to mount on a rotisserie..so we have to put up with the cramped conditions on the hoist

The rear of the same tub also had to be replaced. These two sections were made off the car "blind". So using my HG Ute's underbits as a reference I managed to successfully copy the required parts. A lot of patience and confidence we are mak Date: 31/03/07 The rear of the same tub also had to be replaced. These two sections were made off the car "blind". So using my HG Ute's underbits as a reference I managed to successfully copy the required parts. A lot of patience and confidence we are making the aprt correctly is required. I dont have the luxury of a small bit of lower outer 1/4 panel to check my work-so hopefully my diligence pays off when we come to fit the new 1/4 panels.

Moving onto the tail light area - the right hand side was in poor shape- this was evident when we trial fitted the boot lid. I have removed a tailight housing from my donor wreck- but typical of aged second hand parts - is a little rusty after Date: 27/03/07 Moving onto the tail light area - the right hand side was in poor shape- this was evident when we trial fitted the boot lid. I have removed a tailight housing from my donor wreck- but typical of aged second hand parts - is a little rusty after sandblasting. A small replacement section taken from the monaro will repair this new piece

This looks quite fiddly - and yes it is- but this is the difference to repairing and restoring. The new section was fusion welded din place with the oxy. After linishing you wouldn't know. Its these fine details that count. Date: 27/03/07 This looks quite fiddly - and yes it is- but this is the difference to repairing and restoring. The new section was fusion welded din place with the oxy. After linishing you wouldn't know. Its these fine details that count.

This is the prepared and unpick tail light area - quite a task as you wouldn't believe how many brackets and sub brackets Holden thought was necessary! - They really didn't want the taillights to fall out it seems. Date: 27/03/07 This is the prepared and unpick tail light area - quite a task as you wouldn't believe how many brackets and sub brackets Holden thought was necessary! - They really didn't want the taillights to fall out it seems.

A bit out of focus- due to the batteries still going flat- but here is the repaired tailight section ready to be slipped into place. I have the bootlid to use as a reference and it s gaps can be checked with the tulip panel at the top of the bootlid and Date: 27/03/07 A bit out of focus- due to the batteries still going flat- but here is the repaired tailight section ready to be slipped into place. I have the bootlid to use as a reference and it s gaps can be checked with the tulip panel at the top of the bootlid and the L/H tailight.

The newly installed tailight panel. This is one area giving us some problems with alignment still- so I will have to do some pulling work to make the alignment more accurate with the edge of the boot lid. This area seems to be sucked in on all the Date: 31/03/07 The newly installed tailight panel. This is one area giving us some problems with alignment still- so I will have to do some pulling work to make the alignment more accurate with the edge of the boot lid. This tailight area seems to be sucked in on all the cars we have looked at - so may just be a manufacturing fault - not so much prior accident damage. What ever the cause - we will rectify it.
Note the boot lid isn't fully closed in this shot.

Some other minor work around the car needed to be completed- such as the pin-holed sill. I brazed up the unwanted holes- then sandblasted the are to be rid of the brazing fluxes- which can cause corrosion later on. Date: 28/03/07 Some other minor work around the car needed to be completed- such as the pin-holed sill. I brazed up the unwanted holes- then sandblasted the are to be rid of the brazing fluxes- which can cause corrosion later on.

Time also to address the holey floor pan on the L/H side. This is what happens if possums take up residence- this was a good pan previously!There is no real need to replace the entire pan as I normally do. The area to be removed is above the braces Date: 28/03/07 Time also to address the holey floor pan on the L/H side. This is what happens if possums take up residence- this was a good pan previously!There is no real need to replace the entire pan as I normally do. The area to be removed is above the braces - thus making it easier to tackle.

The new pan from Rare Spares is a bit 'how ya goin' - but will be good enough after I massage some correct lines into it and massage out the lumps and bumps that shouldn't be there. Date: 28/03/07 The new pan from Rare Spares is a bit 'how ya goin' - but will be good enough after I massage some correct lines into it and massage out the lumps and bumps that shouldn't be there.

I took advantage of the access to the crushed floor member below the pan and panel beat it back into the correct form and shape. The old pan removal is the same as the other metal removal on the car - tear it away with pliers and linish what left Date: 28/03/07 I took advantage of the access to the crushed floor member below the pan and panel beat it back into the correct form and shape. The old pan removal is the same as the other metal removal on the car - tear it away with pliers and linish what left.

The paint that Rares use on their repro parts is only a light protective coat that removes easily. So before fitting I treat the pan to a blast as I do with the underlying braces. Date: 28/03/07 The paint that Rares use on their repro parts is only a light protective coat that removes easily. So before fitting I treat the pan to a blast as I do with the underlying braces.

Kim my happy helper is quite impressed she only has ten inches of welding to assist me with - I have been able to access the rest myself. The first step it is to plug or spot weld the pan to the floor braces. The second step it to but weld the pa Date: 29/03/07 Kim my happy helper is quite impressed she only has ten inches of welding to assist me with - I have been able to access the rest myself. The first step it is to plug or spot weld the pan to the floor braces. The second step it to but weld the pan without overlaps in place. Kim is getting ready with the dolly while I hammer weld from the other side.

That will be me welding with the Henrob oxy torch. Basically I trim away the overlap prior to welding the 1mm gap left from cutting. Date: 29/03/07 That will be me welding with the Henrob oxy torch. Basically I trim away the overlap prior to welding the 1mm gap left from cutting.

Then I call 'Dolly!' and my assistant palces the dolly against the molten weld from the other side and I hammer it flat, thus forging the weld. This also helps to keep the panel shape in better control as the welding process pushes and pulls aroun Date: 29/03/07 Then I call 'Dolly!' and my assistant places the dolly against the molten weld from the other side and I hammer it flat, thus forging the weld. This also helps to keep the panel shape in better control as the welding process pushes and pulls around.
The noises of moving metal sounds like a big train going into a small tunnel- quite painful to some - but music to my ears...

And here is the finished pan - all welds have been linished and given a light skim of filler to make it look new again.A sealer coat of etch primer for now will stop the rust from setting in. Later we will high fill prime the floor to fill any pitti Date: 29/03/07 And here is the finished pan - all welds have been linished and given a light skim of filler to make it look new again.A sealer coat of etch primer for now will stop the rust from setting in. Later we will high fill prime the floor to fill any pitting.

Another area to attack is the gutters - some rust in behind is causing some swelling - not in the trousers either... Date: 29/03/07 Another area to attack is the gutters - some rust in behind is causing some swelling - not in the trousers either...

Finally we have a winner- it turns out the Vans have a screw in rain gutter! this will make the task of replacing the gutters very time saving! Date: 29/03/07 Finally we have a winner- it turns out the Vans have a screw in rain gutter! this will make the task of replacing the gutters very time saving!

Held up into position - I can see we can definitely use this once trimmed down. Date: 29/03/07 Held up into position - I can see we can definitely use this once trimmed down.

..and here is why we need to remove the gutters- not as bad as I thought - but still not acceptable to leave alone. Date: 29/03/07 ..and here is why we need to remove the gutters- not as bad as I thought - but still not acceptable to leave alone.

A close up of the other side of the car shows the rust in behind the gutter better. Date: 30/03/07 A close up of the other side of the car shows the rust in behind the gutter better.

Removal was simple- a brickies wedge and a 3 pound hammer- this made short work of the spot welds- and all I have to do now is linish the spot welds flush with the pillar. Date: 30/03/07 Viola! circumcised gutters! Removal was simple- a brickies wedge and a 3 pound hammer- this made short work of the spot welds- and all I have to do now is linish the spot welds flush with the pillar.

After linishing - the remaining rust is dealt with using my spot blaster- makes a mess inside the shop - but is the only weay to be rid of the rust. Date: 30/03/07 After linishing - the remaining rust is dealt with using my spot blaster- makes a mess inside the shop - but is the only weay to be rid of the rust.

All nice and clean again . i also blasted the trimmed own gutters that will be spot welded back in place - and primed the whole lot with Wurths Zinc Rich weld -through grey primer- not shown here. Date: 30/03/07 De -cheesed and all nice and clean again . I also blasted the trimmed down gutters that will be spot welded back in place - and primed the whole lot with Wurths Zinc Rich weld -through grey primer- not shown here.

Moving around the car there is a multitude of small welding jobs to do. The fire wall had been shaved and filled at some stage of the cars life. Now we have to put it all back to how it was. I was lucky enough to come across a box of NOS wiring re Date: 31/03/07 Moving around the car there is a multitude of small welding jobs to do. The fire wall had been shaved and filled at some stage of the cars life. Now we have to put it all back to how it was. I was lucky enough to come across a box of NOS wiring retainer clips at Rares- so I have reinstated the only one required on this firewall.

The insulation holes that have large black plastic plugs poking through the firewall also needed to be put back. This was just a simple case of drilling them out again using a factory insulation board as a reference. Unfortunately due to some one Date: 31/03/07 The insulation holes that have large black plastic plugs poking through the firewall also needed to be put back. This was just a simple case of drilling them out again using a factory insulation board as a reference. Unfortunately due to some one welding the holes with a mig - the welds wouldn't let the drill run very true- even with a pilot hole! So I later had to perfect these holes with a rat tail file.
I had to patch the lower hole shown. The HT 350 Manuals had a speedo cable pass through this area and some one decided that would be a good place for an isolator switch. So After welding the holes up- I re drilled the speedo hole in the correct location using another Bathurst Monaro as a reference. Restoration is a tedious job!

The tulip panel- or panel between boot and rear window was a major concern. There was only a small amount of rust - but Scotty wanted no signs of welding when viewed from the underside through the inspection holes with a torch. Bugger - what to do? W Date: 03/04/07 The tulip panel- or panel between boot and rear window was a major concern. There was only a small amount of rust - but Scotty wanted no signs of welding when viewed from the underside through the inspection holes with a torch. Bugger - what to do? We bought a Rare Spares Tulip panel and it was so far from being right we returned it and decided to press on with repairing what we have.

Not a very clear picture - but still you can see how far removed from right the Rares panel is. It is only 18 mm deep on the ends - (about a foot in from each end)The shape was flat not concave and you can see how rounded the return angles are. Not Date: 12/04/07 Not a very clear picture - but you can still see how far removed from right the Rares panel is. It is only 18 mm deep on the ends - (instead of 25 mm about a foot in from each end)The shape was flat not concave and you can see how rounded the return angles are. Not a hope in hell of using this panel with out cutting it up and spending a long time fixing it. Not to mention the dents from the pressing process through out the whole panel. Other panel shops I spoke to who have used this panel swore they wouldn't ever use it again. Clients have no appreciation for the fact the parts they are buying need so much reworking. We returned this panel to Rares and notified them of the issue.

Now thats way better! the original panel lines up with the boot lid. Had we used the rares panel that was too shallow amongst many other things- that bootlid would have protrude a whole 8mm above the new tulip panel! Not acceptable AT ALL. Date: 12/04/07 Now thats way better! The original panel lines up with the boot lid. Had we used the Rares panel that was too shallow amongst many other things- that bootlid would have protrude a whole 7-8mm above the new tulip panel! Not acceptable AT ALL.

Anyhow- follow along and I will show you how to fix window rust properly and make it undetectable from original. I start with a right angle bent peice of steel the same guage as the panel. Date: 03/04/07 Anyhow- follow along and I will show you how to fix window rust properly and make it undetectable from original. I start with a right angle bent peice of steel the same guage as the panel.

Hmm - it is the wrong shape- or has no shaped curve. Sure I could heat and beat this into submission- but that's a bit too rough... Date: 03/04/07 Hmm - it is the wrong shape- or has no shaped curve. Sure I could heat and beat this into submission- but that's a bit too rough...

I run the peice through my shrinker/stretcher with the shrinking jaws fitted. My machine is air powered so makes this process a breeze.. (pardon the pun) Date: 03/04/07 I run the peice through my shrinker/stretcher with the shrinking jaws fitted. My machine is air powered so makes this process a breeze.. (pardon the pun)

Now you can see the curve I have put into this peice. I go slowly and keep checking it against the window opening- which by the way has not yet been cut out. Date: 03/04/07 Now you can see the curve I have put into this peice. I go slowly and keep checking it against the window opening- which by the way has not yet been cut out.

Now that's starting to look more like it! Note that the piece is dimensionally larger than required- you can always trim it down - but you cant trim it up... Date: 03/04/07 Now that's starting to look more like it! Note that the piece is dimensionally larger than required- you can always trim it down - but you cant trim it up...

The rusty area piece is now removed by cutting with the 1mm cut off wheel-so there is no distortion. The spot welds are teased /wrenched away with care taken not to upset the remaining flange. Date: 03/04/07 The rusty area piece is now removed by cutting with the 1mm cut off wheel-so there is no distortion. The spot welds are teased /wrenched away with care taken not to upset the remaining flange.

The new piece is trimmed and checked for near perfect fit. The boot lid is left in place to check the tulip panel is not distorting or moving. Date: 03/04/07 The new piece is trimmed and checked for near perfect fit. The boot lid is left in place to check the tulip panel is not distorting or moving.

Fast forward to the welded in and file finished patch. You may be wondering why I have not done anything further along the panel where there is some pitting. The object is not to replace reasonably sound material. Those pit marks are not through and I w Date: 03/04/07 Fast forward to the welded in and file finished patch. You may be wondering why I have not done anything further along the panel where there is some pitting. The object is not to replace reasonably sound material. Those pit marks are not through and I will fill these later with some fibre fill and final glaze filler.

A few spot welds as per original along the flange and we are done. The spot welding is left until after the file finishing has been done. This allows me to drift the opening with a swedge to where I want it. The welding and lininshing process wil Date: 03/04/07 A few spot welds as per original along the flange and we are done. The spot welding is left until after the file finishing has been done. This allows me to drift the opening with a swedge to where I want it. The welding and lininshing process will cause some distortion and need to be addressed - fine tuning if you like. Too late once its fully welded!

It was a similar scenario at the other end of the tulip panel....except worse. Initially I thought I would leave the previously weld area someone else had done.. but in the end I elected to have a go at doing a far better job. I have removed the of Date: 03/04/07 It was a similar scenario at the other end of the tulip panel....except worse. Initially I thought I would leave the previously weld area someone else had done.. but in the end I elected to have a go at doing a far better job. I have removed the offending area and made a moon shaped patch to be hammer welded into position.

To support the patch I placed a slim dolly underneath and used this to hammer and oxy weld against. Date: 03/04/07 To support the patch I placed a slim dolly underneath and used this to hammer and oxy weld against.

The nearly finished article with the removed piece showing how bad it really was. Date: 04/04/07 The nearly finished article with the removed piece showing how bad it really was.

All done now- the whole tulip panel repair took around 5 1/2 hours all up. AT $50 /hour that was $275. So we had a original panel with undetectable repairs in a fraction of the time it would have taken to unpick and replace the entire panel with a Date: 04/04/07 All done now- the whole tulip panel repair took around 5 1/2 hours all up. AT $50 /hour that was $275. So we had a original panel with undetectable repairs in a fraction of the time it would have taken to unpick and replace the entire panel with a poorly fitting Rares panel that we would have had to spend a long time rectifying. Don't get me wrong - Many of the Rares panels are quite usable- but ALL of them require some reworking to fit. So in essence you have to weigh the pros and cons for all repair/resto work

Our NOS beaver hunt proved fruitless- our only options were overpriced half sections or b try and find a usable second hand Item. My mate Neil from Fernavale had what we wanted. Date: 04/04/07 Our NOS beaver hunt proved fruitless- our only options were overpriced half sections or try and find a usable second hand Item. My mate Neil from Fernvale had what we wanted.

Unfortunately for me it was going to be one of those days I wish I had stayed in bed... Neil had no oxy acetylene cutting gear available with gas....so the section was removed the hard way - with a hammer and chisel! Im not kidding - that was a massiv Date: 04/04/07 Unfortunately for me it was going to be one of those days I wish I had stayed in bed... Neil had no oxy acetylene cutting gear available with gas....so the section was removed the hard way - with a hammer and chisel! Im not kidding - that was a massive effort - but at least we got what we went for. Neil's is over an hour away and I got caught in the worse traffic jam I had ever been in - it took me nearly all day to go and retrieve this part - so it had better be a good one!

After the BS I went through just to get the car blasted- I elected to blast the donor section myself in my cabinet. What a job! It still worked out quicker than going to my blaster and waiting all day. The beaver is looking good in its naked st Date: 05/04/07 After the BS I went through just to get the car blasted- I elected to blast the donor section myself in my cabinet. What a job! It still worked out quicker than going to my blaster and waiting all day. The beaver is looking good in its naked state- no real serious rust evident to be over concerned with. Now for a lot of tedious and careful unpicking to separate the panel from its substructure.

One filleted and unpicked beaver. What an effort that was! Date: 24/04/07 One filleted and unpicked beaver. What an effort that was!

Whilst I use PPG DP40 on the outer- I need to be able to make spot welds stick - so the inner cops a coating of PPG CT black etch. This also makes it approximately the right colour for the finished job we are looking for on all the inner areas Date: 24/04/07 Whilst I use PPG DP40 on the outer- I need to be able to make spot welds stick - so the inner cops a coating of PPG CT black etch. This also makes it approximately the right colour for the finished job we are looking for on all the inner areas

With the beaver all unpicked and looking like new again - it was put aside as it cannot be fitted until after the 1/4 panels are attached. It was time to move onto another major area needing replacement- the butchered parcel tray. A roll cage used Date: 16/04/07 With the beaver all unpicked and looking like new again - it was put aside as it cannot be fitted until after the 1/4 panels are attached. It was time to move onto another major area needing replacement- the butchered parcel tray. A roll cage used to go through here.

A suitable donor parcel tray from one of my sedan wrecks was deemed to be a close match- so after spending over 4 hours carefully removing it one Saturday morning- it was time for some more delicate unpicking. Here I am grinding away at the remnants Date: 16/04/07 A suitable donor parcel tray from one of my sedan wrecks was deemed to be a close match- so after spending over 4 hours carefully removing it one Saturday morning- it was time for some more delicate unpicking. Here I am grinding away at the remnants I dont want with out damaging the metal I need underneath.

After removing the flanged remnants - I need to panel beat the remaining flanges straight again. Also The Monaro was slightly different in where it matched up with the rear window opening. Luckily it was too big - so some trimming and reshaping the Date: 16/04/07 After removing the flanged remnants - I need to panel beat the remaining flanges straight again. Also The Monaro was slightly different in where it matched up with the rear window opening. Luckily it was too big - so some trimming and reshaping the corner saw it right- after a lot of trial fitting and checking.

To do all this fitting I had to first remove the old parcel tray - and a lot more unpicking and panel beating. Originally the parcel tray went right through and underneath the tulip panel. We decided a fake join under the tulip panel return brace was Date: 17/04/07 To do all this fitting I had to first remove the old parcel tray - and a lot more unpicking and panel beating. Originally the parcel tray went right through and underneath the tulip panel. We decided a fake join under the tulip panel return brace was the best method of attachment.

The donor panel was sandblasted by myself on both sides before being given a nice couple of coats of PPG CT Etch primer. Date: 16/04/07 The donor panel was sandblasted by myself on both sides before being given a nice couple of coats of PPG CT Etch primer.

The panel is now trial fitted and trimmed where necessary to make fit. I lost count of how many times this panel went in and out of the car. You get good at it after the 20th time... Date: 17/04/07 The panel is now trial fitted and trimmed where necessary to make fit. I lost count of how many times this panel went in and out of the car. You get good at it after the 20th time...

This shows clearly where I had to reshape the corners. All that has been hand beaten to replicate the original.. doesn't look much but that was a lot of work! Date: 17/04/07 This shows clearly where I had to reshape the corners. All that has been hand beaten to replicate the original.. doesn't look much but that was a lot of work!

All finally installed. I spot welded where necessary and as the parcel tray end braces that go down to the wheel tubs were cut through - I oxy welded these areas and finished them to make the m like new again. Date: 19/04/07 All finally installed. I spot welded where necessary and as the parcel tray end braces that go down to the wheel tubs were cut through - I oxy welded these areas by standing under the car and gaining access through the fuel tank opening! Not easy but once done were like new again.

The rust rectification continues. It takes a while to up date these albums so some of these pics are getting out of date with what currently happening.
Here we have the trimmed to fit Rares floor replacement for the drivers side. The Accelerator ped Date: 23/04/07 The rust rectification continues. It takes a while to up date these albums so some of these pics are getting out of date with what currently happening.
Here we have the trimmed to fit Rares floor replacement for the drivers side. The Accelerator pedal bracket was rescued from the old floor and spot welded into place prior to fitting the new floor. Note I sand blast the patches as well- Although new- the primer they come with is easily scratched away. So I blast and re prime these sorts of parts prior to fitting.

Although this area was not overly rusty - it had some damage to the floor braces. Therefore we elected to replace part of the drivers side front floor. Date: 23/04/07 Although this area was not overly rusty - it had some damage to the floor braces. Obviously whilst accessible- I panel beat out the damaged brace. Therefore we elected to replace part of the drivers side front floor.

Look mum no pants!
The bum was literally hanging out of this poor Monaro - so the Beaver panel was removed. Date: 23/04/07 Look mum no pants!
The bum was literally hanging out of this poor Monaro - so the Beaver panel was removed.

Anther view of a beaver less Monaro. Note I left the Boot lid in place for reference checking of the beavers substructure. This allowed me to fit the boot mech and check for alignment... Yep it was slightly bent. Now is the time to fix it while we ca Date: 24/04/07 Anther view of a beaver less Monaro. Note I left the Boot lid in place for reference checking of the beavers substructure. This allowed me to fit the boot mech and check for alignment... Yep it was slightly bent. Now is the time to fix it while we can get to it.

In case you are wondering - this is what a HT Bathurst Monaro looks like after I have removed the rusty or damaged bits. This is only one of several 44 gallon drums full of months of unpicked metal remnants Date: 24/04/07 In case you are wondering - this is what a HT Bathurst Monaro looks like after I have removed the rusty or damaged bits. This is only one of several 44 gallon drums full of months of unpicked metal remnants

Sorta starting to look like a car. We got the New panels for the front at last from Nyngan NSW- another rvery expensive group of parts at $1000 each. Not to mention the cost of Scotty having to go and pick 'em up! But we had to have 'em. They are pret Date: 25/04/07 Sorta starting to look like a car. We got the New panels for the front at last from Nyngan NSW- another very expensive group of parts at $1000 each. Not to mention the cost of Scotty having to go and pick 'em up! But we had to have 'em. They are pretty well rust free and have only a few minor dents. I attached the panels 'sans' subframe- which is possible but makes them a tad vulnerable in this position. I also fitted the old rusty doors. Why? because we need all the panels in position on the car before we fit the new 1/4 panel

With the beaver now unpicked and resembling NOS- we find it happily unclips on and off the car with ease. Date: 25/04/07 With the beaver now unpicked and resembling NOS- we find it happily unclips on and off the car with ease.

Steppin outside with out yer trousers is a bit risky if the neighbors are home.... Date: 25/04/07 Steppin outside with out yer trousers is a bit risky if the neighbors are home....

This is the sight Scotty rocked up to early on Anzac day... The profile of a trouserless Monaro stirred some emotions in him apparently... Date: 25/04/07 This is the sight Scotty rocked up to early on Anzac day... The profile of a trouserless Monaro stirred some emotions in him apparently...

Back inside the shed- Todays object is to slap some trousers back on to the ol girl. Yes your eyes are not decieving you - that i sthe same wadding as used by the factory that cuased all the rust issues. But it sthere for a reason - it helps suppor Date: 25/04/07 Back inside the shed- Today's object is to slap some trousers back on to the ol girl. Yes your eyes are not deceiving you - that is the same wadding as used by the factory that caused all the rust issues. But it there for a reason - it helps support the 1/4 panel. Plenty of rustproofing later will prevent a rusty repeat.

At last after all those decades of sitting around the NOS panels have a home. Date: 25/04/07 At last after all those decades of sitting around the NOS panels finally have a home.

By the end of the day we have temporary tech screwed the panels into position ready to be welded. Note we trial fitted the rear window as well- I actually made the opening slightly larger to allow easier fitment of the screen when it goes in for the f Date: 26/04/07 By the end of the day we have temporary tech screwed the panels into position ready to be welded. Note we trial fitted the rear window as well- I actually made the opening slightly larger to allow easier fitment of the screen when it goes in for the final time- something thats a problem with old Holdens- the screen openings are too tight for modern rubbers.

Both Scxotty and I were well pleased to see the car starting to take shape like this... its been a few years since Scotty saw his car looking this complete... Date: 26/04/07 Both Scotty and I were well pleased to see the car starting to take shape like this... its been a few years since Scotty saw his car looking this complete...

A much better profile than this Morning... Trouser stiffening emotions continue.... Date: 26/04/07 A much better profile than this Morning... Trouser stiffening emotions continue....

With all the loose panels screwed into place for now- even though they have to come off again for some final adjustments- they give us a good idea of where we are headed with this project Date: 26/04/07 With all the loose panels screwed into place for now- even though they have to come off again for some final adjustments- they give us a good idea of where we are headed with this project

Slightly blurred vision here- but you can see how the new panel is welded on. Spot welded around the flanges and fully welded along the seams. Date: 27/04/07 Slightly blurred vision here- but you can see how the new panel is welded on. Spot welded around the flanges and fully welded along the seams.

This is not the finished job but the panel needed some extra tweaking to give the correct boot to 1/4 panel gaps. Yes even NOS isn't always right. I file finished the edge so there is no traces of my work. Date: 27/04/07 This is not the finished job but the panel needed some extra tweaking to give the correct boot to 1/4 panel gaps. Yes even NOS isn't always right. I file finished the edge so there is no traces of my work.

The tulip to 1/4 panel weld after I have cleaned it up. of course the factory just left an ugly weld and buried it in lead. I figured we could do better than that. Date: 27/04/07 The tulip to 1/4 panel weld after I have cleaned it up. of course the factory just left an ugly weld and buried it in lead. I figured we could do better than that.

A lot of persuasion took place for this window opening's inner and outer flanges to match up. I also took this opportunity to increase the window opening ever so slightly- which will help us a lot when we fit the window when the car is finished. Date: 27/04/07 A lot of persuasion took place for this window opening's inner and outer flanges to match up. I also took this opportunity to increase the window opening ever so slightly- which will help us a lot when we fit the window when the car is finished.

This close up of the roof weld shows how I finished this area off. I also ran over the whole join area with the metal file to check for high and low spots and fixed them accordingly. Date: 27/04/07 This close up of the roof weld shows how I finished this area off. I also ran over the whole join area with the metal file to check for high and low spots and fixed them accordingly.
Yep - thats the HG Ute languishing in the back ground. It will get its turn again shortly

Out of the blue I got a phone call from my sand blaster to bring the Monaro front panels in for their birthday treatment. Not to miss an opportunity - I obliged as trying to pin this guy down to do stuff is tricky at the best of times. Follow along Date: 04/05/07 Out of the blue I got a phone call from my sand blaster to bring the Monaro front panels in for their birthday treatment. Not to miss an opportunity - I obliged as trying to pin this guy down to do stuff is tricky at the best of times. Follow along as we take a look at the blasting process.

Thats the inside of a de- skinned oor. At thi stime we decided we may as well have a go at fixing the old doors- so I removed the old skins and got the door shells blasted Date: 04/05/07