Slideshow for HG Ute restoration Project

Date: 19/07/04 A poor picture but this is what the ute started life as - when Mum owned it. The canopy is long gone and will not be getting replaced. Mum only used the ute for transporting show dogs - so the tray was in pretty good shape. The milk truck design harks back to the early sixties when Dad was a milkman - so when they bought this Ute new in '71 they thought a milktruck canopy was appropriate - even though they had long since given up the milk run. It was built by Hamilton motor body works at a cost of $170 at the time.

Date: 19/07/04 This is the original sales document from Zupps. Notice they sold it as a HQ! This was because it was fitted with a 202 from the factory - Commercial vehicles were always still produced long after that model was replaced with the new one..so an overlap occurs and some HQ parts ended up in this HG - still a bit dodgy selling it as a HQ though!

Date: 19/01/04 The HG in its former glory - despite popular demand I wont be putting it back on the road like this. Was first equipped with factory 202 which I turned into an XU1 screamer then later upgraded to 350 Chev and T350. Now will be restored to original looking but not with its original appointments entirely. The plans include using a new old stock Belmont interior that has been sourced in Blue and of course the Chev V8 will return. Boring? I dont think so. Understatement is everything.

Date: 15/01/04 Ute as recieved back from the blasters.

Date: 15/01/04 Holey bits - will be replaced front and back with some diligent hammer welding in the form of some new Rare Spares pans.

Date: 19/01/04 Hard to photograph wattyl black etch. Will replace this on the outside surfaces only with PPG DP40 Epoxy Primer. Have to buzz it back to bare steel again first.

Date: 19/01/04 Looks can be decieving - is rustier than it looks.

Date: 19/01/04 The heater will be re-instated as the Ute was previously sporting a smoothed engine bay. I threw out entire front - replacing with a mix of new old stock and mint original components. This is necessary for a concourse resto.

Date: 11/08/03 The guard on the right has been repaired and looked worse than the guard on the left. The repair was file finished and is undetectable - I am offering $100 to those who physically inspect the guard and detect where the join is. The line you may be able to see is the body line pressing. My money is safe.This has been oxy hammerwelded using a Henrob torch then file finished on BOTH sides - even in the areas that you would think impossible to get into with tools- Its the way I repair things - This guard took three ten hour days in total -do the math at $50/hour and you will see why I do very little of this for others.

Date: 11/08/03 The outside of the repairs - The reason these turn out so well is because I use a combination of Rare Spares sections and original sections modified and blended and lots of time and patience. As I really would have preffered NOS (New Old Stock)panels - it was important to make them as close as possible to being new.

Date: 17/01/04 This project has been sort of put back due to the overwhelming amount of other work I have ..However some bits have been getting done. The original steel tyre door had some slight rust and this has been remedied by redoing some old repairs - properly this time.

Date: 17/01/04 Steel is real - and I spent days fixing this door. Its now wearing a coat of epoxy primer in order to seal up the bare metal.

Date: 03/04/04 An original bench seat has been tracked down as has the sunvisor. Not sure about keeping the sunvisor.

Date: 03/04/04 Some original mats have been sourced and these although ripped I have spent some time repairing them. This was one of the near impossible hard to get items. These are advertised by Obsolete Rubber Mats as being available new - so don't keep sending me emails telling me this! They aren't! (Not yet anyhow.) Who knows when they will be...
The mats as made by Holden are not a true rubber- they are a paint-able material. You cannot paint rubber mats so you can have any colour you like- as long as its Black. Belmonts had black mats- Kingswoods had coloured mats- which matches in nicely with the rest of the interior - so I will be Vinyl dye this mat to suit.

well its been a while - This Ute was just deteriorating sitting around while I got stuck into some other projects- being winter I look for all the jobs I don't want to do in summer- so I decided it was time to drag the HG Ute out of its hidey hole and g Date: 13/05/06 Well its been a while - This Ute was just deteriorating sitting around while I got stuck into some other projects. Namely the EK Van project and Mrs Streetneats FC Sedan. During winter I look for all the jobs I don't want to do in summer- like welding- so I decided it was time to drag the HG Ute out of its hidey hole and get it built! Well at least some major surgery.

Date: 13/05/06 The first thing to do was to be rid of all the Wattyl black etch primer from the outside- the PPG DP40 doesn't take well to it - this gave me a chance to sand back the odd bit of surface rust that was starting under the etch - Chicken farm dust is nasty stuff!

Date: 13/05/06 The rust repairs have already started here- I re did some old repairs that were done over 20 years ago - I cut some sections from one of my wrecks and repaired the cowl area. This theme of redoing the rust repairs will be carried on through out the whole body repair process.

Date: 18/05/06 AHHRG!! The long road to rust rectification begins. Out with the old front floor on the drivers side. I used this opportunity to knock the dents out of the floor brace, which was now accessible through the open floor.

Date: 19/05/06 The Ute had been fitted with several gearboxes during its life- so now it is time to return the trans tunnel and braces to standard. The parts were raided from one of my many donor cars and have been unpicked for blasting and installation.

Date: 19/05/06 One advantage of doing this is that all areas can be blasted. These parts are then etch primed before installation - two reasons for this - once installed they cannot be accessed easily, also the etch will protect from sweat (rust) and weld spatter

Date: 19/05/06 A smaller hole than what is required is opened up- this gets rid of the bulk of the offending area- then its a matter of placing the new parts over this hole and lots of careful trimming.

Date: 19/05/06 Here is the view from underneath - note the floor pan that has been oxy hammer welded in on the right side of the car - also note that the left side pan replacement done over 20 years ago leaves a lot to be desired!

Date: 19/05/06 Before welding in the new bit of floor brace - the replacement tunnel section is first trimmed as is the existing tunnel- A lot easier to do this now than when there is a brace in the way!

Date: 19/05/06 replacing this section was simple - just put the new over the stubs of the old and trim with the 1mm cut off disc on the 4 inch grider!- This leaves a perfect butt gap (?!)for oxy welding the new section in... now that didnt sound right - but it worked well!

Date: 19/05/06 And here is the view from the other side- Once again - note the neatness of the Oxy welding on the floor pan... The left pan will be redone again - I guess my skills have developed over the last 20 years as is evident in this pic.

Date: 19/05/06 The hole and pan now have been trimmed- and the new member is etch primed again before this takes place. I welded the new section in straight after this shot.
Many thanks go to my wife Kim for her assistance here and on the floor pans with welding- sorry about the burns dear - I cant see through floors!

Date: 18/06/06 Hmm about time I took a pic of the finished welding of the front floors and tunnel. There is still some minor welding to finish of here and there - this will be done while I'm inside tackling the rear pans...

Date: 18/06/06 and here is the rear pans exposed with the lower of the bulkhead removed. The trick here is to replace the rusty lower Bulkhead- patch the upper and also replace that rusted rear seat brace - even though its a Ute and has no real need for a seat in the rear - the brace is still important.

Date: 18/06/06 I have bought a donor HG van - its pretty rusty - but has a few vital areas of much needed donor metal without too much rust. The black panel shown is the one I have removed - the dirty panel is the one that will replace it

Date: 18/06/06 Ironically I had to use sections from the scrap piece to repair sections of the replacement piece... Repairing the repair section is not uncommon when it comes to old cars- you just have to work with what you've got.

After sandblasting the new lower bulkhead panel, more rust was revealed. I am setting about replacing small sections here with the Henrob torch. A relaxing way to spend a Sunday afternoon. Pic by my son Harold - Not bad for a 10 year old heh? Date: 25/06/06 After sandblasting the new lower bulkhead panel, more rust was revealed. I am setting about replacing small sections here with the Henrob torch. A relaxing way to spend a Sunday afternoon. Pic by my son Harold - Not bad for a 10 year old heh?

The repaired and unpicked panel. Once again it goes back into the blast cabinet to sand blast the welded areas. There are two reasons for this: one is to be rid of the welding oxides that will cause it to rust again - the other is to stress relieve th Date: 25/06/06 The repaired and unpicked panel. Once again it goes back into the blast cabinet to sand blast the welded areas. There are two reasons for this: one is to be rid of the welding oxides that will cause it to rust again - the other is to stress relieve the welded area again - this is akin to shot peening - as this is a structural member its important that it doesnt crack around the welds. This is one of the advantages of Oxy welding - heat is more evenly distributed and a lot less clean up!

Looking down on the top of the panel you can see the recess area for the three floor braces and the area for the floor itself to sit into. As this was taken from a Van - there is no upper bulkhead to unpick and also no rust to deal with! If you loo Date: 25/06/06 Looking down on the top of the panel you can see the recess area for the three floor braces and the area for the floor itself to sit into. As this was taken from a Van - there is no upper bulkhead to unpick and also no rust to deal with! If you look closely you may see the recesses where the drain tubes would normally go for a Ute. These are not punched out for Vans- and neither will these ones be. I plan to seal the floor in well enough and make a point of keeping the load area dry ...plus there are no new drain tubes available anymore...

The lower bulkhead is quickly checked for fit and then put aside for fitting later. Much later judging by the amount of rust I have uncovered now! This is a scary prospect to repair and not something I have tackled to this degree before. But I love Date: 25/06/06 The lower bulkhead is quickly checked for fit and then put aside for fitting later. Much later judging by the amount of rust I have uncovered now! This is a scary prospect to repair and not something I have tackled to this degree before. But I love a challenge so began by blowing away excess metal such as rusty rear seat brace, wheel tub braces and the top front sections of the rear chassis rails.
Gee I hope I have something to replace all this with- better stop now and have a look at my donor cars!

Another view looking in from the drivers door towards the rear. Some people collect stamps - I wonder if they have days like this? The chasiss rail on the right side was full of sand - so the rust may have been a blessing in disguise- or else it would Date: 25/06/06 Another view looking in from the drivers door towards the rear.
Some people collect stamps - I wonder if they have days like this? The chasiss rail on the right side was full of sand - so the rust may have been a blessing in disguise- or else it would have rusted out anyhow if it ever got wet.

After weeks of deliberation and planning of the pending delicate yet major surgery, I have finally removed the donor section I need from the donor HG Van. Being a van this section was in great condition as it has been protected from the elements ..alt Date: 04/07/06 After weeks of deliberation and planning I have finally removed the donor section I need from the donor HG Van. This was then sent away for blasting. I welded a few extra holes some one had drilled at this stage. Being a van this section was in great condition as it has been protected from the elements ..although the rest of the van is cactus. This area includes the spring hangers and forward part of the rear chassis rails. The tricky part is gunna be that it was not designed to go in in one piece like this. Hmmm... its gotta! It is vital that you prepare the replacement section well before you remove the cancerous section- that way you can be sure you are not removing too much from all the wrong places.

Not much choice other than to start waving the oxy over the dead and cancerous sections. I have laid out the remnants to show you just how bad it all was- not pretty heh?! What I do is remove the bulk with the oxy torch within the area of the repla Date: 04/07/06 Not much choice other than to start waving the oxy over the dead and cancerous sections. I have laid out the remnants to show you just how bad it all was- not pretty heh?! What I do is remove the bulk with the oxy torch within the area of the replacement piece. I then go back and remove the spot welded areas via the drilling of spot welds and noisy air chisel.

The area is prepared with careful unpicking. All traces of old spot welds are linished away with a die grinder sanding tool followed by etch priming the unpicked areas. Apologies for the dust particles on the camera lens. Date: 04/07/06 The area is prepared with careful unpicking. All traces of old spot welds are linished away with a die grinder sanding tool followed by etch priming the unpicked areas. Apologies for the dust particles on the camera lens.

The plan is to create a false seam under the car. When completed it will apear as a factory join- and only a very observent HG enthusiast will pick it as not being original. In answer to all those that keep hassling me as whats happening withthe EK Va Date: 04/07/06 The plan is to create a false seam under the car. When completed it will appear as a factory join- and only a very observant HG enthusiast will pick it as not being original. In answer to all those that keep hassling me as whats happening with the EK Van - you can see its still in the shed- waiting its turn. I plan to finish this Ute first.

This close up shows how I drilled out the spot welds on a brace and then opened the whole lot up in order to allow the new section to slip in between - thus creating a factory style overlap. The plan also calls for the chassis rails to be overlapped f Date: 04/07/06 This close up shows how I drilled out the spot welds on a brace and then opened the whole lot up in order to allow the new section to slip in between - thus creating a factory style overlap. The plan also calls for the chassis rails to be overlapped for additional strength

The new piece is etch primed be fore fitting- which makes sense as once its in place a lot of it wont be accessible. This also make the section more spatter proof from welding and means it wont be going rusty from my sweaty hands. Date: 04/07/06 The new piece is etch primed before fitting- which makes sense as once its in place a lot of it wont be accessible. This also make the section more spatter proof from welding and means it wont be going rusty from my sweaty hands.

With a fair amount of industrial strength swearing the donor piece is persuaded home. Everything fits as it should. I used some ratchet straps on the spring hangers to pull it all into position. Here we can see the window I cut from under the car to a Date: 06/07/06 With a fair amount of industrial strength swearing the donor piece is persuaded home. Everything fits as it should. I used some ratchet straps on the spring hangers to pull it all into position. Here we can see the window I cut from under the car to access the inside of the chassis rail overlap. The camera flash made the black etch look brown - so don't panic -its not rusty!

The other window I cut into the wheel tub allows me to access the side of the chassis rail that sits near the wheel tub. To close this window in the tub this area will be sourced from yet another of my donor cars. Date: 06/07/06 The other window I cut into the wheel tub allows me to access the side of the chassis rail that sits near the wheel tub. To close this window in the tub this area will be sourced from yet another of my donor cars.

the problem with rust is that you can be easily distracted into fixing other rust problems near by. The LHR chassis rail was annoying me, so before the day was out I thought I may as well tackle it before I knocked off. Date: 06/07/06 the problem with rust is that you can be easily distracted into fixing other rust problems near by. The LHR chassis rail was annoying me, so before the day was out I thought I may as well tackle it before I knocked off.

...and here is the piece I removed along with the piece to replace it Date: 06/07/06 ...and here is the piece I removed along with the piece to replace it

The new section of floor and chassis rail has been fully welded except for the inside of the leg I could not get too- so I created a window and this allowed me to continue the welding in the areas other wise inaccessible. Date: 09/07/06 The new section of floor and chassis rail has been fully welded except for the inside of the leg I could not get to- so I created a window and this allowed me to continue the welding in the areas other wise inaccessible.

As I have become obsessed with using as much as I can from the donor cars to replace rusted areas in the name of originality - I have removed this section from the wheel tub of a sedan - sounds easy enough - but the two pieces I required took me an e Date: 09/07/06 As I have become obsessed with using as much as I can from the donor cars to replace rusted areas in the name of originality - I have removed this section from the wheel tub of a sedan - sounds easy enough - but the two pieces I required took me an entire weekend to remove from the donor car, unpick, blast, etch prime and install!

Whats that noise? Not rats but the good wife hiding inside the car with a hammer and dolly. I'm giving her directions as to where to tap the new floor pan we are installing in the rear. Note the flame is pointed away from the beard and long hai Date: 19/07/06 Whats that noise? Not rats but the good wife hiding inside the car with a hammer and dolly. I'm giving her directions as to where to tap the new floor pan we are installing in the rear. Note the flame is pointed away from the beard and long hair.

The laborious and lovely job of oxy hammer welding the new pan in place. I wont go into the detail of how this is achieved as I have covered it elsewhere ad finitum in my other galleries. Date: 19/07/06 The laborious and lovely job of oxy hammer welding the new pan in place. I wont go into the detail of how this is achieved as I have covered it elsewhere ad finitum in my other galleries.

"This man is a panel beater so we cant show you his face" Just in case you haven't been paying attention - this pan is being joined onto the new rear floor and chassis rail piece from the donor van. Date: 19/07/06 "This man is a panel beater so we cant show you his face"
Just in case you haven't been paying attention - this pan is being joined onto the new rear floor and chassis rail piece from the donor van.

And here is the freshly welded Rare Spares pan - I found it easier to use in its entirity - thus avoiding the issue of pressings or ribs not lining up. The pan has been spot welded to the under floor braces first before the oxy welding was started- t Date: 19/07/06 And here is the freshly welded Rare Spares pan - I found it easier to use in its entirity - thus avoiding the issue of pressings or ribs not lining up. The pan has been spot welded to the under floor braces first before the oxy welding was started- this whole operation takes two of us a full day.

This over view shows the newly installed rear floor and chassis rails section and also the new LHR pan. Prior to finishing the last of the welding on the LHR pan - we trial fitted the new lower bulkhead in order to be absolutely certain we had the pan i Date: 19/07/06 This over view shows the newly installed rear floor and chassis rails section and also the new LHR pan. Prior to finishing the last of the welding on the LHR pan - we trial fitted the new lower bulkhead in order to be absolutely certain we had the pan in the right position. A bit of persuasion with a porta power put the pan right. Then I had to un install it all to allow me to gain acsess to the reamining right pan yet to be installed. Just now gotta find time to install that last pan!

Its not all been fun with rust only - but a lot of other important parts gathering has been taking place. Many hard to get parts are starting to be found- and to keep it all interesting I had all the satin black powder coating done for the project and a Date: 30/07/06 Its not all been fun with rust only - but a lot of other important parts gathering has been taking place. Many hard to get parts are starting to be found- and to keep it all interesting I had all the satin black powder coating done for the project and also this Zinc plating. I blasted all these parts myself saving heaps on the plating costs - much of it comes out like chrome - which is not really what we are trying to achieve - but this is an the name of keeping with my theme of 'OEM' (original equipment manufactured)
Many thanks to Ralph and the Guys at Custom Coatings at Brendale (07) 3205 7099( Brisvegas North side) for the superb job.

Date: 26/10/06 Does the rust ever end? The rear window area has been affected quite badly by the dreaded tin worm - but its all quite fixable. The channel the glass sits in was repaired 20 years ago - but I reckon it was time to start again so I carefully removed one peice at a time for pattern making

Date: 26/10/06 The piece I removed and the new piece I had folded in zincanneal. Due to the sweep in the rear window area-I had to make this in two parts. The lower attaching edge was made separately and put through the shrinker / stretcher to make the gentle curve. This piece was then spot welded to the main part.

Date: 26/10/06 Ohh I like new tools! The spot welder was purchased for this very job. The arms in the fore ground had to be specially ordered - this will allow spot welding the sill into the cabins parcel tray. Here we are adding the glass channel to the main part.

Date: 27/10/06 With the new bits trail fitted thus far - I keep moving on to remove the next part to use as a pattern- the parcel tray continues under the window sill- but we will be making it a separate item- not that you will be able to tell - as the new parts are hidden under factory seams.

Here are the basic components - at the top is the inner part with the outer glass channel and lower mounting flange already added. The middle part is the continuation of the parcel tray- it has its outer edge mounting flange spot welded to it as Date: 27/10/06 Here are the basic components - at the top is the inner part with the outer glass channel and lower mounting flange already added. The middle part is the continuation of the parcel tray- it has its outer edge mounting flange spot welded to it as well in this shot.
The other flat part is the rear face of the window sill- it still has yet to be formed to shape in the shrinker stretcher. Where possible - all seams have been filled with new seam sealer and all parts have been primed with a weld through type of primer- I don't think its gunna rust again in a hurry!

The inner part has now been installed with the new spot welder and the longer arms with extra reach. The new outer panel has been sized up and some careful cutting removed the rusty old outer. Date: 04/11/06 The inner part has now been installed with the new spot welder and the longer arms with extra reach. The new outer panel has been sized up and some careful cutting removed the rusty old outer.

This close up show how much shape is in the new outer - basically checked against the old outer before it was cut away. The shaping was once again done on the shrinker stretcher. Date: 05/11/06 This close up show how much shape is in the new outer - basically checked against the old outer before it was cut away. The shaping was once again done on the shrinker stretcher.

Once I was happy with the shape of the new outer and a bit of trail fitting took place - it was put aside to concentrate on fitting the new lower section. I have already spot welded this to the remnants of the parcel tray. The porta power shown in an ear Date: 05/11/06 Once I was happy with the shape of the new outer and a bit of trail fitting took place - it was put aside to concentrate on fitting the new lower section. I have already spot welded this to the remnants of the parcel tray. The porta power shown in an earlier pic was used to get the new panel to conform to the sweep of the parcel tray- then a bit of hammer and dolly work between spots made it all come together nicely. Note that I added some extra brace bits in the shape of some angles at the ends to join the sill base to the side of the Ute- Originally all this was one stamping - so whatever the factory had I have replicated with individually shaped parts and then spot welde these parts together.

The outer has been clamped to allow me to make minor adjustments in fitment and scribe a line to trim away the old so its flush with the new. Only the trough area is all that remains of the whole window sill- this was my reference point and as it wa Date: 04/11/06 The outer has been clamped to allow me to make minor adjustments in fitment and scribe a line to trim away the old so its flush with the new. Only the trough area is all that remains of the whole window sill- this was my reference point. It was not rusted and deemed too hard to fabricate - so it stayed!

The rear window sill welding completed and the old screen trail fitted. Date: 16/11/06 The rear window sill welding completed and the old screen trail fitted.

The window fits as good as it used to, but .... Date: 16/11/06 The window fits as good as it used to, but ....

some of the factory upper gaps are a bit ordinary - I remember this from twenty years back it was something that always annoyed me Date: 16/11/06 some of the factory upper gaps are a bit ordinary - I remember this from twenty years back it was something that always annoyed me

And the other side was little better. I will make this difference up later with some more lead as the factory did- or rather should have... Date: 16/11/06 And the other side was little better. I will make this difference up later with some more lead as the factory did- or rather should have...

The load area in my Ute still needs some attention - Date: 16/11/06 The load area in my Ute still needs some attention -

Date: 28/11/06 While all the rust repairs are going on - other items are gathered for the restoration. Whilst I had the HG donor van in the shop- I took the opportunity to raid its fuel tank.
This is a pretty grungy looking tank - but we will fix that. follow along as we restore a fuel tank streetneat style (read properly)

Fortunatley this tank (tank 2) has been sealed well and kept the mudwasp homes to the outside. Ironically I only found I had this particular tank after I removed another from the donor HG Van... and restored it as shown shown in the following pics Date: 28/11/06 Fortunatley this tank has been sealed well and kept the mudwasp homes to the outside.

Chris at RLC engine reconditioning - the very bloke that does all the streetneat engines was kind enough to hot tank the tank for me - this process costs approximately $100- depending on how long they spend cleaning. Date: 28/11/06 Chris at RLC Engine Reconditioning (07) 3390 2017 - the very bloke that does all the streetneat engines was kind enough to 'hot tank' my fuel tank ( dip in a heated caustic tank)
This process costs approximately $100- depending on how long they spend cleaning.

As you can see the tank comes back like new- Date: 30/11/06 As you can see the tank comes back like new. Just a little clean up with a grey scotch brite and some thinners and it looks NOS.

Underneath the tank is good also - except for a few minor dents. No rust or pinholes evident. Date: 16/11/06 Underneath the tank is good also - except for a few minor dents. No rust or pinholes evident.

Hmmm dents... thats gunna annoy me... Date: 16/11/06 Hmmm dents... thats gunna annoy me... But we have a few tricks up our sleeves

The first step was to linish the area clean and free from the tinning compound as used on fuel tanks Date: 16/11/06 The first step was to linish the area clean and free from the tinning compound as used on fuel tanks

Dont try this at home kids unless you are as sure as I am that your tank has no fuel residue whatsoever. I wasnt gunna let the fact I couldnt beat the dents out from the inside beat me. This is an electric nail welder for dent removal - A nail is c Date: 16/11/06 Dont try this at home kids unless you are as sure as I am that your tank has no fuel residue whatsoever.
I wasnt gunna let the fact I couldnt beat the dents out from the inside beat me. This is an electric nail welder for dent removal - A nail is carefully welded in the middle of the dent...

The nail is firmly attached to the recalcitrant dent... Date: 16/11/06 The nail is firmly attached to the recalcitrant dent...

A few sort sharp upwards taps from the slide hammer with nail attachment... Date: 16/11/06 A few sort sharp upwards taps from the slide hammer with nail attachment...

A prelimary linshing from the die grinder again before ... Date: 16/11/06 A prelimary linshing from the die grinder again before ...

...a seeing to with a sharp metal body file. The trick here is to remember that the tank is thin and not to get carried away. Date: 16/11/06 ...a seeing to with a sharp metal body file. The trick here is to remember that the tank is thin and not to get carried away.

As you can see the file tells me where the low spots are - so some more nails are welded on... Date: 16/11/06 As you can see the file tells me where the low spots are - so some more nails are welded on...

and some more nails on some more finer dents. The process is repeated for the rest of the afternoon until all the dents are gone. Date: 16/11/06 -and yet more nails on some more finer dents. This process is repeated until all the dents are gone.

The end result looking like this. The area is sanded with some 80 grit on the orbital random sander to blend the repairs and to be rid of file marks. Date: 16/11/06 The end result looking like this. The area is sanded with some 80 grit on the orbital random sander to blend the repairs and to be rid of file marks.

Two of the mounting tags had been butchered on this tank. These mount tags are the same on the body as they are on the tank - These came from the door HG Van. These are blasted, un picked of excess material and blasted again before being sprayed in wel Date: 30/11/06 Two of the mounting tags had been butchered on this tank. These mount tags are the same on the body as they are on the tank - These came from the donor HG Van. These are blasted, un picked of excess material (as shown on the two outer ones) and blasted again before being sprayed in weld through primer

Any excuse will do to use my new spot welder! The tabs are spot welded back in the correct location after delicately removing the remnants of the old damaged tabs. Date: 01/12/06 Any excuse will do to use my new spot welder! The tabs are spot welded back in the correct location after delicately removing the remnants of the old damaged tabs.

The finished article at the end of an afternoons hard work. I could have just bogged the dents - but why when it can be so easily metal finished?The next stage is to treat the inside of the tank- so its off to buy a fuel tank treatment kit. Date: 16/11/06 The finished article at the end of an afternoons hard work. I could have just bogged the dents - but why when it can be so easily metal finished?
The next stage is to treat the inside of the tank- so its off to buy a fuel tank treatment kit.

This is the POR fuel tank repair kit - bloody expensive - but also very good value for money when you consider the potential of saving an otherwise leaky fuel tank. The kit includes all the required solutions to to make your tank like new. Due to the Date: 01/12/06 This is the POR fuel tank repair kit - bloody expensive - but also very good value for money when you consider the potential of saving an otherwise leaky fuel tank. The kit includes all the required solutions to to make your tank like new. Due to the tank already being hot dipped - this process was sped up significantly.

I will skip showing you the repetitive cleaning process and move on to the adding of the fuel tank sealer. This stuff is magic. The tank MUST be thoroughly clean and dry. A few hours in the hot sun wont do!- you MUST get hot air moving through the ta Date: 01/12/06 I will skip showing you the repetitive cleaning process and move on to the adding of the fuel tank sealer. This stuff is magic. The tank MUST be thoroughly clean and dry. A few hours in the hot sun wont do!- you MUST get hot air moving through the tank.
Use a hot air gun for this and let the tank cool down before adding the sealer.

The next step a few days later was to epoxy prime and allow to sit for a day - I finished off a few small imperfections with some dolphin glaze final filler. Epoxy priming is essential if you want paints or fillers to adhere to the fuel tank's factory Date: 28/11/06 The next step a few days later was to epoxy prime and allow to sit for a day - I finished off a few small imperfections with some dolphin glaze final filler. Epoxy priming is essential if you want paints or fillers to adhere to the fuel tank's factory tinned surface.

The tank has been primed with a black tinted Hi build two pack primer- so when road rash occurs - it will only chip back to a similar colour. The tank has then been wet rubbed with 400 and 800 grit ready for final top coat. Date: 29/11/06 The tank has been primed with a black tinted Hi build two pack primer- so when road rash occurs - it will only chip back to a similar colour. The tank has then been wet rubbed with 400 and 800 grit ready for final top coat.

The final top coat is satin black on the underside only. Its still quite wet here so you cat yet tell its satin until it dries Date: 29/11/06 The final top coat is satin black on the underside only. Its still quite wet here so you cat yet tell its satin until it dries

And after its all dried it looks just like a new one. Date: 30/11/06 And after its all dried it looks just like a new one.

The finished tank. The top side has been coated in two pack silver - which is a nice contrast to the satin black underside.
Ironically after all this effort I discovered I had another near perfect tank so I did this twice!
Both tanks are now perfect Date: 30/11/06 The finished tank. The top side has been coated in two pack silver - which is a nice contrast to the satin black underside.
Ironically after all this effort I discovered I had another near perfect tank so I did this twice!
Both tanks are now perfect so I will sell this one shown for a measly $595 - Bloody cheap considering how much time and effort was involved!

Wow what a transformation! This goes to show what some time and effort can acheive. Date: 03/12/06 Wow what a transformation! This goes to show what some time and effort can acheive.

I have had a new glass cut and toughened by Pilkington Glass. This one still ha the protective wrapper on it and has a slight green tint to it. I have trail fitted it here to check for fit. Date: 03/12/06 I have had a new glass cut and toughened by Pilkington Glass. This still has the protective wrapper on it and has a slight green tint to it. I have trail fitted it here to check for fit.

That rear window sill is looking great now its finished. The window fits nicely. A few minor adjustmets to the window opening's edges will make it look even better. Date: 03/12/06 That rear window sill is looking great now its finished. The window fits nicely. A few minor adjustmets to the window opening's edges will make it look even better.

The glass fits nicely in the corners now - a little more sanding will see it right. Date: 03/12/06 The glass fits nicely in the corners now - a little more sanding will see it right.

More unpicked and filleted bits from the donor van. These will replace the area missing in the load area. Date: 03/12/06 More unpicked and filleted bits from the donor van. This will replace the rusted sections where the wood floor screws into the tray

I still have some rust issues to deal with - but we are nearly at the end of all that - I have had a few false starts on this area- I keep getting busy elsewhere.
The Ute is balanced with counter weights to lift it up on the hoist like this - so I f Date: 03/12/06 I still have some rust issues to deal with - but we are nearly at the end of all that - I have had a few false starts on this area- I keep getting busy elsewhere.
The Ute is balanced with counter weights to lift it up on the hoist like this - so I figured the safest way to work here was to bolt the front of the car back on.

Date: 15/12/06 Time to balance this car a bit better- which leads to repairing other components such as these door hinges. I worked out by using parts from rear door hinges and travelling around many wreckers- I was able to source enough hinges to choose from. This took quite while - but I got there in the end- I have sandblasted several hinges and rebuilt some -THEN I picked out the best set. Now the doors swing like new.

With the subframe wrestled on - (this was previously powder coated about two years ago!)- I have started trail fitting panels and seeing what fits. Looking good so far! I'm chasing crisp lines and perfect gaps ( aren't we all!?) Date: 25/01/07 With the subframe wrestled on - (this was previously powder coated about two years ago!)- I have started trail fitting panels and seeing what fits. Looking good so far! I'm chasing crisp lines and perfect gaps ( aren't we all!?)

This one will be controversial! I am restoring this Ute totally back to stock specs. As for any HG grilles -I cant find a NOS one or one in perfect condition.Some time a few decades ago - I had come up with this combo- that has been copied ever Date: 25/01/07 This one will be controversial! I am restoring this Ute mostly back to factory stock specs. As for any HG grilles -I cant find a NOS one or one in perfect condition.
Some time a few decades ago - I had come up with this combo- that has been copied everywhere since. I was lucky enough to come across a stack of NOS HK grilles- but my car is a HG... Hmmm - Now here is where it gets tricky - I cut the three upper bars from a spare NOS grill that had some marks on it elsewhere. I removed the heavy centre HK grill bar and attached the three grille bars. Thus giving the car a single headlight Prem front! So yes its customised- but it is done using factory parts so I dont feel I have cheated on my building theme. I have another trick or two like this up my sleeve for some other areas as well.
Any fool can restore a car - But I'm well known for customising - my aim is to do it with a factory look- using factory components.

A few years ago I bought this NOS HG bonnet. It has survived miraculously well considering how many hands it went through - unfortunately - its got some surface rust that has to be dealt with. Date: 16/12/06 A few years ago I bought this NOS HG bonnet. It has survived miraculously well considering how many hands it went through - unfortunately - its got some surface rust that has to be dealt with.

A thorough and careful sanding removed the factory etch primer- I also had to spot blast some heavier rust pits. After all that I washed the whole surface down with some metal prep acid - just to be sure all the rust has gone. Date: 16/12/06 A thorough and careful sanding removed the factory etch primer- I also had to spot blast some heavier rust pits. After all that I washed the whole surface down with some metal prep acid - just to be sure all the rust has gone.

Unfortunately the underside was little better- at least it had no major rust like you would find on a 3year old second hand bonnet. Date: 16/12/06 Unfortunately the underside was little better- at least it had no major rust like you would find on a 35+ year old second hand bonnet.

Here is the factory authentication sticker. Date: 16/12/06 Here is the factory authentication sticker.

After a thorough clean up underneath that took a whole Saturday morning - the bonnet was clean - but Im afraid all this attention ran the risk of warping the outer skin - which it did in a few places slightly. I had little choice- the bonnet had to b Date: 16/12/06 After a thorough clean up underneath that took a whole Saturday morning - the bonnet was clean - but Im afraid all this attention ran the risk of warping the outer skin - which it did in a few places slightly. I had little choice- the bonnet had to be rid of rust. I knew this would happen. A few bumps with a rubber mallet- got most of it out- but I knew it wasn't such a good bonnet anymore.
I primed the bonnet later with some PPG DP40 and put it aside for the time being in disgust.

This gives a more complete picture of how the new grille works. Also I have been wrestling with the warped Bonnet I put aside in disgust - I cant let any panel get the better of me so ... Date: 26/01/07 This gives a more complete picture of how the new grille works. Also I have been wrestling with the warped Bonnet I put aside in disgust - I cant let any panel get the better of me so ...

...a bit of crafty heat shrinking with this magical wand- a carbon tipped shrinker- pulled the skin back to where it belonged. What warped panels? Thanks to a mate who read my mind Eds who loaned me his shrinker tool (very uncanny - he turned u Date: 26/01/07 ...a bit of crafty heat shrinking with this magical wand- a carbon tipped shrinker- pulled the skin back to where it belonged. What warped panels? Thanks to a mate (Des) who read my mind -loaned me his shrinker tool (very uncanny - he turned up out of the blue with this tool unannounced before I even rang him! VERY BIZZARE!!)
Im still trying to work out how he knew I wanted to use it...

With the bonnet sorted enough for now - onto a rust repair that has taken me 4 years to get around to finishing!- The other mudguard!
I have been buying more tools - and one of them was this Plasma cuter- its the ducks guts when it comes to trimming Date: 26/01/07 With the bonnet sorted enough for now - onto a rust repair that has taken me 4 years to get around to finishing!- The other mudguard!
I have been buying more tools - and one of them was this Plasma cuter- its the ducks guts when it comes to trimming away out cancer and speed trimming anything else that gets in the way...

When not in use - you get a better look at it - basically it makes an arc- then compressed air blows away the molten metal - for a very neat distortion free cut. Boy I like new tools! Date: 26/01/07 When not in use - you get a better look at it - basically it makes an arc- then compressed air blows away the molten metal - for a very neat distortion free cut. Boy I like new tools!

After a fair amount of fiddling and manipulation I have juggled two new inner sections from rares spare into position and oxy hammer welded them home. I use the supplied bolt holes and massage the new pieces so they make a happy fit to the origi Date: 26/01/07 After a fair amount of fiddling and manipulation I have juggled two new inner sections from Rare Spares into position and oxy hammer welded them home. I use the supplied bolt holes and massage the new pieces so they make a happy fit to the original lumps 'n bumps.

The inner piece fitted surprisingly well- after some industrial swearing and severe manipulation with a hammer, dolly and oxy torch... Date: 26/01/07 The inner piece fitted surprisingly well- after some industrial swearing and severe manipulation with a hammer, dolly and oxy torch...

After trimming down and clamping with Vise grip pliers- the cut and paste begins-literally! In short a short cut is made in line with where the old panel was cut (a trained eye will make this guessing game easy!)
Only a short cut is made with the Date: 26/01/07 After trimming down and clamping with Vise grip pliers- the cut and paste begins-literally! In short a short cut is made in line with where the old panel was cut (a trained eye will make this guessing game easy!)
Only a short cut is made with the 4" grinder fitted with the 1mm thick cutting wheel. The panel is mig spotted in place as we cannot get in behind with an oxy torch. we make a tack - pull away more of the excess with some pliers- and cut a little further etc etc ..

This one outer weld took me most of a Saturday. No distortion - no need for great gobs of filler- all metal finished pretty well. Date: 27/01/07 This one outer weld took me most of a Saturday. No distortion - no need for great gobs of filler- all metal finished pretty well.

Another view- this will only get a thin band of fibreglass filler to protect it from the elements leaching through microscopic pinholes in the welds. Plus a thin skim of smoo over that. Before body fillers- these repairs had to be this good so they o Date: 27/01/07 Another view- this will only get a thin band of fibreglass filler to protect it from the elements leaching through microscopic pinholes in the welds. Plus a thin skim of smoo over that. Before body fillers- these repairs had to be this good so they only required some red lead and block sanding. I figured if they could do this so good decades ago - then so could I!

These doors are the Ute's originals and have been sitting around for some years - so even though they were already blasted- I had Red blast 'em again. Good thing too as they had a slight amount of surface rust under the etch primer. This time around th Date: 05/05/07 These doors are the Ute's originals and have been sitting around for some years - so even though they were already blasted- I had Red blast 'em again. Good thing too as they had a slight amount of surface rust under the etch primer. This time around they will be getting a generous dose of PPGDP40 epoxy primer.

The couple of holes in the lower corner were brass filled with the oxy - or to be more precise- brazed. Date: 05/05/07 The couple of holes in the lower corner were brass filled with the oxy - or to be more precise- brazed.

While I have been busy on Scotty's Monaro project - Several parts of my HG Ute have been out of the shop getting completed. I was lucky enough to buy a New Old Stock- (NOS) HG Belmont twilight blue seat cover from the Internet for only $99! Later I bo Date: 23/05/07 While I have been busy on Scotty's Monaro project - Several parts of my HG Ute have been out of the shop getting completed. I was lucky enough to buy a New Old Stock- (NOS) HG Belmont twilight blue seat cover from the Internet for only $99! Later I bought some other NOS interior parts from the same company- Supertrim.

The seat frame was powdercoated after I reconditioned it using several seats for the much needed parts. Mostly springs. The Bolts and upholstery retaining clips were Zinc plated and the runners powdercoated as well thoroughly overhauled. Even the gre Date: 23/05/07 The seat frame was powdercoated after I reconditioned it using several seats for the much needed parts. Mostly springs. The Bolts and upholstery retaining clips were Zinc plated and the runners powdercoated and thoroughly overhauled. Even the grease used to lubricate the seat runners is the correct White Castrol grease from a NOS can from the late 60's!

Ahh back to doing some more rust work- you would reckon I would be running out of parts to replace on this Ute- and you would be nearly be right. The tray area where the wooden floor sits in has seen better days- while it wasn't too bad and I had alrea Date: 27/06/07 Ahh back to doing some more rust work- you would reckon I would be running out of parts to replace on this Ute- and you would be nearly be right. The tray area where the wooden floor sits in has seen better days- while it wasn't too bad and I had already oxy welded up the holes- It was showing signs of rust still trapped between the seams- so out it all came. this will mean that 75% of the tray area has now been replaced.

This section has been taken from a wagon I had sold to the wreckers- and had to buy back...
I was nearly sure the wagon load area was the same- and it turns out I was right- and it wasn't rusty! A lot of cleaning, blasting, unpicking and finessing h Date: 27/06/07 This section has been taken from a wagon I had sold to the wreckers- and had to buy back...
I was nearly sure the wagon load area was the same- and it turns out I was right- and it wasn't rusty! A lot of cleaning, blasting, unpicking and finessing has gone into this part to resemble NOS (New Old Stock)

The load area has been replaced along the whole left side now. The right side was two thirds replaced. A generous coating of PPG Etch during every stage ensure that rust wont creep in again before I get a chance to final paint it all. Date: 30/06/07 The load area has been replaced along the whole left side now. The right side was two thirds replaced. A generous coating of PPG Etch during every stage ensure that rust wont creep in again before I get a chance to final paint it all.

With the tray area sorted - onto some more rust at the drivers side rear. The first step was to remove the bulk of the rusty metal Date: 04/07/07 With the tray area sorted - onto some more rust at the drivers side rear. The first step was to remove the bulk of the rusty metal

looking up from underneath - thats a fairly large and complex area to replace... Luckily we have more spare cuts gathered... Date: 04/07/07 looking up from underneath - thats a fairly large and complex area to replace... Luckily we have more spare cuts gathered...

Some of this area had been lightly repaired 21 years ago - but it looks to me that it was never properly sorted out then. Rust never sleeps and all the rust proofing back then amount to nothing as it was already too late. Date: 04/07/07 Some of this area had been lightly repaired 21 years ago - but it looks to me that it was never properly sorted out then. Rust never sleeps and all the rust proofing back then amount to nothing as it was already too late.

At least when it came to removal - there wasn't a lot to unpick here- you can sort of see where this extra inner brace was meant to be if you look at the remnants on the ends. Date: 04/07/07 At least when it came to removal - there wasn't a lot to unpick here- you can sort of see where this extra inner brace was meant to be if you look at the remnants on the ends.

The replacement section - taken from another wagon over 6 months ago has sat around the workshop and now its unpicked and blasted clean it is as close to perfect as we are gunna get. It has some slight pit marks but isn't thin or holey. Date: 04/07/07 The replacement section - taken from another wagon over 6 months ago has sat around the workshop and now its unpicked and blasted clean it is as close to perfect as we are gunna get. It has some slight pit marks but isn't thin or holey.

The visible area on the underside has no real pit marks or blemishes. As you can see this part is just a little too complex to hand make and be accurate so a donor part is necessary for this operation. Date: 04/07/07 The visible area on the underside has no real pit marks or blemishes. As you can see this part is just a little too complex to hand make and be accurate so a donor part is necessary for this operation.

The replacement section is offered up and its now obvious as to what metal needs to be replaced. Using unpicked donor sections makes this work a breeze. Date: 04/07/07 The replacement section is offered up and its now obvious as to what metal needs to be replaced. Using unpicked donor sections makes this work a breeze.

After a bit of head scratching I figured out how to make up the missing metal. I folded some new steel of the same guage up into a right angle and then ran that through my shrinker stretcher using the new donor piece as a guide. Date: 04/07/07 After a bit of head scratching I figured out how to make up the missing metal. I folded some new steel of the same guage up into a right angle and then ran that through my shrinker stretcher using the new donor piece as a guide.

That lower flange will be spot welded in eventualy. Its an od area that dosent run parrelel to the outer as you would expect like you would expect. Date: 04/07/07 That lower flange will be spot welded in eventualy. Its an od area that dosent run parrelel to the outer as you would expect like you would expect.

After a fair amount of trial fitting and trimming the replacement metal is welded home. To achieve a correct fit - the section was tack welded with the new lower donor section in place then that was unclamped so I could oxy hammer weld the new metal Date: 05/07/07 After a fair amount of trial fitting and trimming the replacement metal is welded home. To achieve a correct fit - the section was tack welded with the new lower donor section in place then that was unclamped so I could oxy hammer weld the new metal in properly.

There were other minor sections that need equally minor patches- these bits may look simple but are painfully fiddly to make and fit - this is where fingers get burnt! Date: 05/07/07 There were other minor sections that need equally minor patches- these bits may look simple but are painfully fiddly to make and fit - this is where fingers get burnt!

Now the new lower donor section is welded home at last. This took days of trial fitting and trimming - interruptions always drag this process out... Note I have left as much of the outer wheel arch intact as possible - you will see why later... Date: 05/07/07 Now the new lower donor section is welded home at last. This took days of trial fitting and trimming - interruptions always drag this process out... Note I have left as much of the outer wheel arch intact as possible - you will see why later...

Moths ago I bought a whole 8x4 foot sheet of steel just to make this one part. Even though there was not a lot wrong with the original- it was necessary to remove this fake wheel wheel plate to acsess all the inner structure I have just replaced. Some of Date: 05/07/07 Months ago I bought a whole 8x4 foot sheet of steel just to make this one part. Even though there was not a lot wrong with the original- it was necessary to remove this fake wheel wheel plate to acsess all the inner structure I have just replaced. Some of the sedan DNA lingers in these comercial models and this would be the spare tyre recess area in a sedan - but in a commercial or wagon GMH elected to sort of leave most of it there. I elected to make a new section as by the time I unpicked the original it was easier to make a new and subsequently straight peice.

A rough cardboard template is made to gauge what needs to be made in metal. Why is it rough? well the design will change a few times from here. Now you can see why I chose to leave a bit of the the old wheel arch. Date: 06/07/07 A rough cardboard template is made to gauge what needs to be made in metal. Why is it rough? well the design will change a few times from here. Now you can see why I chose to leave a bit of the the old wheel arch.

There isn't much to see from this side but its also important to see whats going on and what might need to be rectified in metal. With the outer panel removed this gives plenty of access to make the new inner. About now I will offer up the replacement o Date: 06/07/07 There isn't much to see from this side but its also important to see whats going on and what might need to be rectified in metal. With the outer panel removed this gives plenty of access to make the new inner. About now I will offer up the replacement outer to check I'm on the right track with the inner. Quite a juggling match as I will have all sections made and have to be able to check that everything marries up before too much welding takes place.

The rough cardboard patch is transferred to steel. Now the fun begins. Date: 06/07/07 The rough cardboard patch is transferred to steel. Now the fun begins.

I quite enjoy making patches - the more complex the more of an interesting challenge! Date: 08/07/07 I quite enjoy making patches - the more complex the more of an interesting challenge! This patch took a few hours and I kept finessing it until it clipped neatly into position and fitted perfectly.

The challenge I set myself was if I could make it in cardboard in one piece then I could replicate that in steel. Except that cardboard is easier to work with than thick steel! But I eventually succeeded. This piece only had one small weld in the corner Date: 08/07/07 The challenge I set myself was if I could make it in cardboard in one piece then I could replicate that in steel. Except that cardboard is easier to work with than thick steel! But I eventually succeeded. This piece only had one small weld in the corner.

Not the clearest of pics but here is the patch installed at last. Date: 13/07/07 Not the clearest of pics but here is the patch installed at last.

The rest of the complex inner installation now complete. Date: 13/07/07 The rest of the complex inner installation now complete.

The Rare Spares outer has also been tweaked and installed by Oxy Hammer welding - thanks to my wife for her assistance once again for holding the dolly inside while I ironed out the wrinkles. Still a few minor wrinkles to sort before a smear of smoo to f Date: 13/07/07 The Rare Spares outer has also been tweaked and installed by Oxy Hammer welding - thanks to my wife for her assistance once again for holding the dolly inside while I ironed out the wrinkles. Still a few minor wrinkles to sort before a smear of smoo to finish it off. It has been epoxy primed (PPGDP40)in readiness for that at a later date..

Now about the only rust left to rectify is this mess done over 21 years ago. No doubt it was functional at the time- but not good enough for the high standard I'm aiming for.