Date: 18/07/04 A poor picture but this is what the ute started life as - when Mum owned it. The canopy is long gone and will not be getting replaced. Mum only used the ute for transporting show dogs - so the tray was in pretty good shape. The milk truck design harks back to the early sixties when Dad was a milkman - so when they bought this Ute new in '71 they thought a milktruck canopy was appropriate - even though they had long since given up the milk run. It was built by Hamilton motor body works at a cost of $170 at the time.
Date: 18/07/04 This is the original sales document from Zupps. Notice they sold it as a HQ! This was because it was fitted with a 202 from the factory - Commercial vehicles were always still produced long after that model was replaced with the new one..so an overlap occurs and some HQ parts ended up in this HG - still a bit dodgy selling it as a HQ though!
Date: 18/01/04 The HG in its former glory - despite popular demand I wont be putting it back on the road like this. Was first equipped with factory 202 which I turned into an XU1 screamer then later upgraded to 350 Chev and T350. Now will be restored to original looking but not with its original appointments entirely. The plans include using a new old stock Belmont interior that has been sourced in Blue and of course the Chev V8 will return. Boring? I dont think so. Understatement is everything.
Date: 14/01/04 Ute as recieved back from the blasters.
Date: 14/01/04 Holey bits - will be replaced front and back with some diligent hammer welding in the form of some new Rare Spares pans.
Date: 18/01/04 Hard to photograph wattyl black etch. Will replace this on the outside surfaces only with PPG DP40 Epoxy Primer. Have to buzz it back to bare steel again first.
Date: 18/01/04 Looks can be decieving - is rustier than it looks.
Date: 18/01/04 The heater will be re-instated as the Ute was previously sporting a smoothed engine bay. I threw out entire front - replacing with a mix of new old stock and mint original components. This is necessary for a concourse resto.
Date: 10/08/03 The guard on the right has been repaired and looked worse than the guard on the left. The repair was file finished and is undetectable - I am offering $100 to those who physically inspect the guard and detect where the join is. The line you may be able to see is the body line pressing. My money is safe.This has been oxy hammerwelded using a Henrob torch then file finished on BOTH sides - even in the areas that you would think impossible to get into with tools- Its the way I repair things - This guard took three ten hour days in total -do the math at $50/hour and you will see why I do very little of this for others.
Date: 10/08/03 The outside of the repairs - The reason these turn out so well is because I use a combination of Rare Spares sections and original sections modified and blended and lots of time and patience. As I really would have preffered NOS (New Old Stock)panels - it was important to make them as close as possible to being new.
Date: 16/01/04 This project has been sort of put back due to the overwhelming amount of other work I have ..However some bits have been getting done. The original steel tyre door had some slight rust and this has been remedied by redoing some old repairs - properly this time.
Date: 16/01/04 Steel is real - and I spent days fixing this door. Its now wearing a coat of epoxy primer in order to seal up the bare metal.
Date: 03/04/04 An original bench seat has been tracked down as has the sunvisor. Not sure about keeping the sunvisor.
Date: 03/04/04 Some original mats have been sourced and these although ripped I have spent some time repairing them. This was one of the near impossible hard to get items. These are advertised by Obsolete Rubber Mats as being available new - so don't keep sending me emails telling me this! They aren't! (Not yet anyhow.) Who knows when they will be...
The mats as made by Holden are not a true rubber- they are a paint-able material. You cannot paint rubber mats so you can have any colour you like- as long as its Black. Belmonts had black mats- Kingswoods had coloured mats- which matches in nicely with the rest of the interior - so I will be Vinyl dye this mat to suit.
well its been a while - This Ute was just deteriorating sitting around while I got stuck into some other projects- being winter I look for all the jobs I don't want to do in summer- so I decided it was time to drag the HG Ute out of its hidey hole and g Date: 13/05/06 Well its been a while - This Ute was just deteriorating sitting around while I got stuck into some other projects. Namely the EK Van project and Mrs Streetneats FC Sedan. During winter I look for all the jobs I don't want to do in summer- like welding- so I decided it was time to drag the HG Ute out of its hidey hole and get it built! Well at least some major surgery.
Date: 13/05/06 The first thing to do was to be rid of all the Wattyl black etch primer from the outside- the PPG DP40 doesn't take well to it - this gave me a chance to sand back the odd bit of surface rust that was starting under the etch - Chicken farm dust is nasty stuff!
Date: 13/05/06 The rust repairs have already started here- I re did some old repairs that were done over 20 years ago - I cut some sections from one of my wrecks and repaired the cowl area. This theme of redoing the rust repairs will be carried on through out the whole body repair process.
Date: 18/05/06 AHHRG!! The long road to rust rectification begins. Out with the old front floor on the drivers side. I used this opportunity to knock the dents out of the floor brace, which was now accessible through the open floor.
Date: 19/05/06 The Ute had been fitted with several gearboxes during its life- so now it is time to return the trans tunnel and braces to standard. The parts were raided from one of my many donor cars and have been unpicked for blasting and installation.
Date: 19/05/06 One advantage of doing this is that all areas can be blasted. These parts are then etch primed before installation - two reasons for this - once installed they cannot be accessed easily, also the etch will protect from sweat (rust) and weld spatter
Date: 19/05/06 A smaller hole than what is required is opened up- this gets rid of the bulk of the offending area- then its a matter of placing the new parts over this hole and lots of careful trimming.
Date: 19/05/06 Here is the view from underneath - note the floor pan that has been oxy hammer welded in on the right side of the car - also note that the left side pan replacement done over 20 years ago leaves a lot to be desired!
Date: 19/05/06 Before welding in the new bit of floor brace - the replacement tunnel section is first trimmed as is the existing tunnel- A lot easier to do this now than when there is a brace in the way!
Note the patch has radius corners - this is far preferable than having square cuts in corners that will pull and distort.
Date: 19/05/06 replacing this section was simple - just put the new over the stubs of the old and trim with the 1mm cut off disc on the 4 inch grinder!- This leaves a perfect butt gap (?!)for oxy welding the new section in... now that didn't sound right - but it worked well!
Date: 19/05/06 And here is the view from the other side- Once again - note the neatness of the Oxy welding on the floor pan... The left pan will be redone again - I guess my skills have developed over the last 20 years as is evident in this pic.
Date: 19/05/06 The hole and pan now have been trimmed- and the new member is etch primed again before this takes place. I welded the new section in straight after this shot.
Many thanks go to my wife Kim for her assistance here and on the floor pans with welding- sorry about the burns dear - I cant see through floors!
Date: 18/06/06 Hmm about time I took a pic of the finished welding of the front floors and tunnel. There is still some minor welding to finish of here and there - this will be done while I'm inside tackling the rear pans...
Date: 18/06/06 and here is the rear pans exposed with the lower of the bulkhead removed. The trick here is to replace the rusty lower Bulkhead- patch the upper and also replace that rusted rear seat brace - even though its a Ute and has no real need for a seat in the rear - the brace is still important.
Date: 18/06/06 I have bought a donor HG van - its pretty rusty - but has a few vital areas of much needed donor metal without too much rust. The black panel shown is the one I have removed - the dirty panel is the one that will replace it
Date: 18/06/06 Ironically I had to use sections from the scrap piece to repair sections of the replacement piece... Repairing the repair section is not uncommon when it comes to old cars- you just have to work with what you've got.
After sandblasting the new lower bulkhead panel, more rust was revealed. I am setting about replacing small sections here with the Henrob torch. A relaxing way to spend a Sunday afternoon. Pic by my son Harold - Not bad for a 10 year old heh? Date: 24/06/06 After sandblasting the new lower bulkhead panel, more rust was revealed. I am setting about replacing small sections here with the Henrob torch. A relaxing way to spend a Sunday afternoon. Pic by my son Harold - Not bad for a 10 year old heh?
The repaired and unpicked panel. Once again it goes back into the blast cabinet to sand blast the welded areas. There are two reasons for this: one is to be rid of the welding oxides that will cause it to rust again - the other is to stress relieve th Date: 24/06/06 The repaired and unpicked panel. Once again it goes back into the blast cabinet to sand blast the welded areas. There are two reasons for this: one is to be rid of the welding oxides that will cause it to rust again - the other is to stress relieve the welded area again - this is akin to shot peening - as this is a structural member its important that it doesnt crack around the welds. This is one of the advantages of Oxy welding - heat is more evenly distributed and a lot less clean up!
Looking down on the top of the panel you can see the recess area for the three floor braces and the area for the floor itself to sit into. As this was taken from a Van - there is no upper bulkhead to unpick and also no rust to deal with! If you loo Date: 24/06/06 Looking down on the top of the panel you can see the recess area for the three floor braces and the area for the floor itself to sit into. As this was taken from a Van - there is no upper bulkhead to unpick and also no rust to deal with! If you look closely you may see the recesses where the drain tubes would normally go for a Ute. These are not punched out for Vans- and neither will these ones be. I plan to seal the floor in well enough and make a point of keeping the load area dry ...plus there are no new drain tubes available anymore...
The lower bulkhead is quickly checked for fit and then put aside for fitting later. Much later judging by the amount of rust I have uncovered now! This is a scary prospect to repair and not something I have tackled to this degree before. But I love Date: 25/06/06 The lower bulkhead is quickly checked for fit and then put aside for fitting later. Much later judging by the amount of rust I have uncovered now! This is a scary prospect to repair and not something I have tackled to this degree before. But I love a challenge so began by blowing away excess metal such as rusty rear seat brace, wheel tub braces and the top front sections of the rear chassis rails.
Gee I hope I have something to replace all this with- better stop now and have a look at my donor cars!
Another view looking in from the drivers door towards the rear. Some people collect stamps - I wonder if they have days like this? The chasiss rail on the right side was full of sand - so the rust may have been a blessing in disguise- or else it would Date: 25/06/06 Another view looking in from the drivers door towards the rear.
Some people collect stamps - I wonder if they have days like this? The chasiss rail on the right side was full of sand - so the rust may have been a blessing in disguise- or else it would have rusted out anyhow if it ever got wet.
After weeks of deliberation and planning of the pending delicate yet major surgery, I have finally removed the donor section I need from the donor HG Van. Being a van this section was in great condition as it has been protected from the elements ..alt Date: 03/07/06 After weeks of deliberation and planning I have finally removed the donor section I need from the donor HG Van. This was then sent away for blasting. I welded a few extra holes some one had drilled at this stage. Being a van this section was in great condition as it has been protected from the elements ..although the rest of the van is cactus. This area includes the spring hangers and forward part of the rear chassis rails. The tricky part is gunna be that it was not designed to go in in one piece like this. Hmmm... its gotta! It is vital that you prepare the replacement section well before you remove the cancerous section- that way you can be sure you are not removing too much from all the wrong places.
Not much choice other than to start waving the oxy over the dead and cancerous sections. I have laid out the remnants to show you just how bad it all was- not pretty heh?! What I do is remove the bulk with the oxy torch within the area of the repla Date: 04/07/06 Not much choice other than to start waving the oxy over the dead and cancerous sections. I have laid out the remnants to show you just how bad it all was- not pretty heh?! What I do is remove the bulk with the oxy torch within the area of the replacement piece. I then go back and remove the spot welded areas via the drilling of spot welds and noisy air chisel.
The area is prepared with careful unpicking. All traces of old spot welds are linished away with a die grinder sanding tool followed by etch priming the unpicked areas. Apologies for the dust particles on the camera lens. Date: 04/07/06 The area is prepared with careful unpicking. All traces of old spot welds are linished away with a die grinder sanding tool followed by etch priming the unpicked areas. Apologies for the dust particles on the camera lens.
The plan is to create a false seam under the car. When completed it will apear as a factory join- and only a very observent HG enthusiast will pick it as not being original. In answer to all those that keep hassling me as whats happening withthe EK Va Date: 04/07/06 The plan is to create a false seam under the car. When completed it will appear as a factory join- and only a very observant HG enthusiast will pick it as not being original. In answer to all those that keep hassling me as whats happening with the EK Van - you can see its still in the shed- waiting its turn. I plan to finish this Ute first.
This close up shows how I drilled out the spot welds on a brace and then opened the whole lot up in order to allow the new section to slip in between - thus creating a factory style overlap. The plan also calls for the chassis rails to be overlapped f Date: 04/07/06 This close up shows how I drilled out the spot welds on a brace and then opened the whole lot up in order to allow the new section to slip in between - thus creating a factory style overlap. The plan also calls for the chassis rails to be overlapped for additional strength
The new piece is etch primed be fore fitting- which makes sense as once its in place a lot of it wont be accessible. This also make the section more spatter proof from welding and means it wont be going rusty from my sweaty hands. Date: 04/07/06 The new piece is etch primed before fitting- which makes sense as once its in place a lot of it wont be accessible. This also make the section more spatter proof from welding and means it wont be going rusty from my sweaty hands.
With a fair amount of industrial strength swearing the donor piece is persuaded home. Everything fits as it should. I used some ratchet straps on the spring hangers to pull it all into position. Here we can see the window I cut from under the car to a Date: 06/07/06 With a fair amount of industrial strength swearing the donor piece is persuaded home. Everything fits as it should. I used some ratchet straps on the spring hangers to pull it all into position. Here we can see the window I cut from under the car to access the inside of the chassis rail overlap. The camera flash made the black etch look brown - so don't panic -its not rusty!
The other window I cut into the wheel tub allows me to access the side of the chassis rail that sits near the wheel tub. To close this window in the tub this area will be sourced from yet another of my donor cars. Date: 06/07/06 The other window I cut into the wheel tub allows me to access the side of the chassis rail that sits near the wheel tub. To close this window in the tub this area will be sourced from yet another of my donor cars.
the problem with rust is that you can be easily distracted into fixing other rust problems near by. The LHR chassis rail was annoying me, so before the day was out I thought I may as well tackle it before I knocked off. Date: 06/07/06 the problem with rust is that you can be easily distracted into fixing other rust problems near by. The LHR chassis rail was annoying me, so before the day was out I thought I may as well tackle it before I knocked off.
...and here is the piece I removed along with the piece to replace it Date: 06/07/06 ...and here is the piece I removed along with the piece to replace it
The new section of floor and chassis rail has been fully welded except for the inside of the leg I could not get too- so I created a window and this allowed me to continue the welding in the areas other wise inaccessible. Date: 09/07/06 The new section of floor and chassis rail has been fully welded except for the inside of the leg I could not get to- so I created a window and this allowed me to continue the welding in the areas other wise inaccessible.
As I have become obsessed with using as much as I can from the donor cars to replace rusted areas in the name of originality - I have removed this section from the wheel tub of a sedan - sounds easy enough - but the two pieces I required took me an e Date: 09/07/06 As I have become obsessed with using as much as I can from the donor cars to replace rusted areas in the name of originality - I have removed this section from the wheel tub of a sedan - sounds easy enough - but the two pieces I required took me an entire weekend to remove from the donor car, unpick, blast, etch prime and install!
Whats that noise? Not rats but the good wife hiding inside the car with a hammer and dolly. I'm giving her directions as to where to tap the new floor pan we are installing in the rear. Note the flame is pointed away from the beard and long hai Date: 18/07/06 Whats that noise? Not rats but the good wife hiding inside the car with a hammer and dolly. I'm giving her directions as to where to tap the new floor pan we are installing in the rear. Note the flame is pointed away from the beard and long hair.
The laborious and lovely job of oxy hammer welding the new pan in place. I wont go into the detail of how this is achieved as I have covered it elsewhere ad finitum in my other galleries. Date: 18/07/06 The laborious and lovely job of oxy hammer welding the new pan in place. I wont go into the detail of how this is achieved as I have covered it elsewhere ad finitum in my other galleries.
"This man is a panel beater so we cant show you his face" Just in case you haven't been paying attention - this pan is being joined onto the new rear floor and chassis rail piece from the donor van. Date: 18/07/06 "This man is a panel beater so we cant show you his face"
Just in case you haven't been paying attention - this pan is being joined onto the new rear floor and chassis rail piece from the donor van.
And here is the freshly welded Rare Spares pan - I found it easier to use in its entirity - thus avoiding the issue of pressings or ribs not lining up. The pan has been spot welded to the under floor braces first before the oxy welding was started- t Date: 18/07/06 And here is the freshly welded Rare Spares pan - I found it easier to use in its entirity - thus avoiding the issue of pressings or ribs not lining up. The pan has been spot welded to the under floor braces first before the oxy welding was started- this whole operation takes two of us a full day.
This over view shows the newly installed rear floor and chassis rails section and also the new LHR pan. Prior to finishing the last of the welding on the LHR pan - we trial fitted the new lower bulkhead in order to be absolutely certain we had the pan i Date: 18/07/06 This over view shows the newly installed rear floor and chassis rails section and also the new LHR pan. Prior to finishing the last of the welding on the LHR pan - we trial fitted the new lower bulkhead in order to be absolutely certain we had the pan in the right position. A bit of persuasion with a porta power put the pan right. Then I had to un install it all to allow me to gain acsess to the reamining right pan yet to be installed. Just now gotta find time to install that last pan!
Its not all been fun with rust only - but a lot of other important parts gathering has been taking place. Many hard to get parts are starting to be found- and to keep it all interesting I had all the satin black powder coating done for the project and a Date: 29/07/06 Its not all been fun with rust only - but a lot of other important parts gathering has been taking place. Many hard to get parts are starting to be found- and to keep it all interesting I had all the satin black powder coating done for the project and also this Zinc plating. I blasted all these parts myself saving heaps on the plating costs - much of it comes out like chrome - which is not really what we are trying to achieve - but this is an the name of keeping with my theme of 'OEM' (original equipment manufactured)
Many thanks to Ralph and the Guys at Custom Coatings at Brendale (07) 3205 7099( Brisvegas North side) for the superb job.
Date: 26/10/06 Does the rust ever end? The rear window area has been affected quite badly by the dreaded tin worm - but its all quite fixable. The channel the glass sits in was repaired 20 years ago - but I reckon it was time to start again so I carefully removed one peice at a time for pattern making
Date: 26/10/06 The piece I removed and the new piece I had folded in zincanneal. Due to the sweep in the rear window area-I had to make this in two parts. The lower attaching edge was made separately and put through the shrinker / stretcher to make the gentle curve. This piece was then spot welded to the main part.
Date: 26/10/06 Ohh I like new tools! The spot welder was purchased for this very job. The arms in the fore ground had to be specially ordered - this will allow spot welding the sill into the cabins parcel tray. Here we are adding the glass channel to the main part.
Date: 27/10/06 With the new bits trail fitted thus far - I keep moving on to remove the next part to use as a pattern- the parcel tray continues under the window sill- but we will be making it a separate item- not that you will be able to tell - as the new parts are hidden under factory seams.
Here are the basic components - at the top is the inner part with the outer glass channel and lower mounting flange already added. The middle part is the continuation of the parcel tray- it has its outer edge mounting flange spot welded to it as Date: 27/10/06 Here are the basic components - at the top is the inner part with the outer glass channel and lower mounting flange already added. The middle part is the continuation of the parcel tray- it has its outer edge mounting flange spot welded to it as well in this shot.
The other flat part is the rear face of the window sill- it still has yet to be formed to shape in the shrinker stretcher. Where possible - all seams have been filled with new seam sealer and all parts have been primed with a weld through type of primer- I don't think its gunna rust again in a hurry!
The inner part has now been installed with the new spot welder and the longer arms with extra reach. The new outer panel has been sized up and some careful cutting removed the rusty old outer. Date: 04/11/06 The inner part has now been installed with the new spot welder and the longer arms with extra reach. The new outer panel has been sized up and some careful cutting removed the rusty old outer.
This close up show how much shape is in the new outer - basically checked against the old outer before it was cut away. The shaping was once again done on the shrinker stretcher. Date: 04/11/06 This close up show how much shape is in the new outer - basically checked against the old outer before it was cut away. The shaping was once again done on the shrinker stretcher.
Once I was happy with the shape of the new outer and a bit of trail fitting took place - it was put aside to concentrate on fitting the new lower section. I have already spot welded this to the remnants of the parcel tray. The porta power shown in an ear Date: 04/11/06 Once I was happy with the shape of the new outer and a bit of trail fitting took place - it was put aside to concentrate on fitting the new lower section. I have already spot welded this to the remnants of the parcel tray. The porta power shown in an earlier pic was used to get the new panel to conform to the sweep of the parcel tray- then a bit of hammer and dolly work between spots made it all come together nicely. Note that I added some extra brace bits in the shape of some angles at the ends to join the sill base to the side of the Ute- Originally all this was one stamping - so whatever the factory had I have replicated with individually shaped parts and then spot welde these parts together.
The outer has been clamped to allow me to make minor adjustments in fitment and scribe a line to trim away the old so its flush with the new. Only the trough area is all that remains of the whole window sill- this was my reference point and as it wa Date: 04/11/06 The outer has been clamped to allow me to make minor adjustments in fitment and scribe a line to trim away the old so its flush with the new. Only the trough area is all that remains of the whole window sill- this was my reference point. It was not rusted and deemed too hard to fabricate - so it stayed!
The rear window sill welding completed and the old screen trail fitted. Date: 15/11/06 The rear window sill welding completed and the old screen trail fitted.
The window fits as good as it used to, but .... Date: 15/11/06 The window fits as good as it used to, but ....
some of the factory upper gaps are a bit ordinary - I remember this from twenty years back it was something that always annoyed me Date: 15/11/06 some of the factory upper gaps are a bit ordinary - I remember this from twenty years back it was something that always annoyed me
And the other side was little better. I will make this difference up later with some more lead as the factory did- or rather should have... Date: 15/11/06 And the other side was little better. I will make this difference up later with some more lead as the factory did- or rather should have...
The load area in my Ute still needs some attention - Date: 15/11/06 The load area in my Ute still needs some attention -
Date: 27/11/06 While all the rust repairs are going on - other items are gathered for the restoration. Whilst I had the HG donor van in the shop- I took the opportunity to raid its fuel tank.
This is a pretty grungy looking tank - but we will fix that. follow along as we restore a fuel tank streetneat style (read properly)
Fortunatley this tank (tank 2) has been sealed well and kept the mudwasp homes to the outside. Ironically I only found I had this particular tank after I removed another from the donor HG Van... and restored it as shown shown in the following pics Date: 27/11/06 Fortunatley this tank has been sealed well and kept the mudwasp homes to the outside.
Chris at RLC engine reconditioning - the very bloke that does all the streetneat engines was kind enough to hot tank the tank for me - this process costs approximately $100- depending on how long they spend cleaning. Date: 27/11/06 Chris at RLC Engine Reconditioning (07) 3390 2017 - the very bloke that does all the streetneat engines was kind enough to 'hot tank' my fuel tank ( dip in a heated caustic tank)
This process costs approximately $100- depending on how long they spend cleaning.
As you can see the tank comes back like new- Date: 29/11/06 As you can see the tank comes back like new. Just a little clean up with a grey scotch brite and some thinners and it looks NOS.
Underneath the tank is good also - except for a few minor dents. No rust or pinholes evident. Date: 15/11/06 Underneath the tank is good also - except for a few minor dents. No rust or pinholes evident.
Hmmm dents... thats gunna annoy me... Date: 15/11/06 Hmmm dents... thats gunna annoy me... But we have a few tricks up our sleeves
The first step was to linish the area clean and free from the tinning compound as used on fuel tanks Date: 15/11/06 The first step was to linish the area clean and free from the tinning compound as used on fuel tanks
Dont try this at home kids unless you are as sure as I am that your tank has no fuel residue whatsoever. I wasnt gunna let the fact I couldnt beat the dents out from the inside beat me. This is an electric nail welder for dent removal - A nail is c Date: 15/11/06 Dont try this at home kids unless you are as sure as I am that your tank has no fuel residue whatsoever.
I wasnt gunna let the fact I couldnt beat the dents out from the inside beat me. This is an electric nail welder for dent removal - A nail is carefully welded in the middle of the dent...
The nail is firmly attached to the recalcitrant dent... Date: 15/11/06 The nail is firmly attached to the recalcitrant dent...
A few sort sharp upwards taps from the slide hammer with nail attachment... Date: 15/11/06 A few sort sharp upwards taps from the slide hammer with nail attachment...
A prelimary linshing from the die grinder again before ... Date: 15/11/06 A prelimary linshing from the die grinder again before ...
...a seeing to with a sharp metal body file. The trick here is to remember that the tank is thin and not to get carried away. Date: 15/11/06 ...a seeing to with a sharp metal body file. The trick here is to remember that the tank is thin and not to get carried away.
As you can see the file tells me where the low spots are - so some more nails are welded on... Date: 15/11/06 As you can see the file tells me where the low spots are - so some more nails are welded on...
and some more nails on some more finer dents. The process is repeated for the rest of the afternoon until all the dents are gone. Date: 15/11/06 -and yet more nails on some more finer dents. This process is repeated until all the dents are gone.
The end result looking like this. The area is sanded with some 80 grit on the orbital random sander to blend the repairs and to be rid of file marks. Date: 15/11/06 The end result looking like this. The area is sanded with some 80 grit on the orbital random sander to blend the repairs and to be rid of file marks.
Two of the mounting tags had been butchered on this tank. These mount tags are the same on the body as they are on the tank - These came from the door HG Van. These are blasted, un picked of excess material and blasted again before being sprayed in wel Date: 29/11/06 Two of the mounting tags had been butchered on this tank. These mount tags are the same on the body as they are on the tank - These came from the donor HG Van. These are blasted, un picked of excess material (as shown on the two outer ones) and blasted again before being sprayed in weld through primer
Any excuse will do to use my new spot welder! The tabs are spot welded back in the correct location after delicately removing the remnants of the old damaged tabs. Date: 30/11/06 Any excuse will do to use my new spot welder! The tabs are spot welded back in the correct location after delicately removing the remnants of the old damaged tabs.
The finished article at the end of an afternoons hard work. I could have just bogged the dents - but why when it can be so easily metal finished?The next stage is to treat the inside of the tank- so its off to buy a fuel tank treatment kit. Date: 15/11/06 The finished article at the end of an afternoons hard work. I could have just bogged the dents - but why when it can be so easily metal finished?
The next stage is to treat the inside of the tank- so its off to buy a fuel tank treatment kit.
This is the POR fuel tank repair kit - bloody expensive - but also very good value for money when you consider the potential of saving an otherwise leaky fuel tank. The kit includes all the required solutions to to make your tank like new. Due to the Date: 30/11/06 This is the POR fuel tank repair kit - bloody expensive - but also very good value for money when you consider the potential of saving an otherwise leaky fuel tank. The kit includes all the required solutions to to make your tank like new. Due to the tank already being hot dipped - this process was sped up significantly.
I will skip showing you the repetitive cleaning process and move on to the adding of the fuel tank sealer. This stuff is magic. The tank MUST be thoroughly clean and dry. A few hours in the hot sun wont do!- you MUST get hot air moving through the ta Date: 30/11/06 I will skip showing you the repetitive cleaning process and move on to the adding of the fuel tank sealer. This stuff is magic. The tank MUST be thoroughly clean and dry. A few hours in the hot sun wont do!- you MUST get hot air moving through the tank.
Use a hot air gun for this and let the tank cool down before adding the sealer.
The next step a few days later was to epoxy prime and allow to sit for a day - I finished off a few small imperfections with some dolphin glaze final filler. Epoxy priming is essential if you want paints or fillers to adhere to the fuel tank's factory Date: 28/11/06 The next step a few days later was to epoxy prime and allow to sit for a day - I finished off a few small imperfections with some dolphin glaze final filler. Epoxy priming is essential if you want paints or fillers to adhere to the fuel tank's factory tinned surface.
The tank has been primed with a black tinted Hi build two pack primer- so when road rash occurs - it will only chip back to a similar colour. The tank has then been wet rubbed with 400 and 800 grit ready for final top coat. Date: 29/11/06 The tank has been primed with a black tinted Hi build two pack primer- so when road rash occurs - it will only chip back to a similar colour. The tank has then been wet rubbed with 400 and 800 grit ready for final top coat.
The final top coat is satin black on the underside only. Its still quite wet here so you cat yet tell its satin until it dries Date: 29/11/06 The final top coat is satin black on the underside only. Its still quite wet here so you cat yet tell its satin until it dries
And after its all dried it looks just like a new one. Date: 29/11/06 And after its all dried it looks just like a new one.
The finished tank. The top side has been coated in two pack silver - which is a nice contrast to the satin black underside.
Ironically after all this effort I discovered I had another near perfect tank so I did this twice!
Both tanks are now perfect
Date: 29/11/06 The finished tank. The top side has been coated in two pack silver - which is a nice contrast to the satin black underside.
Ironically after all this effort I discovered I had another near perfect tank so I did this twice!
Both tanks are now perfect so I will sell this one shown for a measly $595 - Bloody cheap considering how much time and effort was involved!
Wow what a transformation! This goes to show what some time and effort can acheive. Date: 03/12/06 Wow what a transformation! This goes to show what some time and effort can acheive.
I have had a new glass cut and toughened by Pilkington Glass. This one still ha the protective wrapper on it and has a slight green tint to it. I have trail fitted it here to check for fit. Date: 03/12/06 I have had a new glass cut and toughened by Pilkington Glass. This still has the protective wrapper on it and has a slight green tint to it. I have trail fitted it here to check for fit.
That rear window sill is looking great now its finished. The window fits nicely. A few minor adjustmets to the window opening's edges will make it look even better. Date: 03/12/06 That rear window sill is looking great now its finished. The window fits nicely. A few minor adjustmets to the window opening's edges will make it look even better.
The glass fits nicely in the corners now - a little more sanding will see it right. Date: 03/12/06 The glass fits nicely in the corners now - a little more sanding will see it right.
More unpicked and filleted bits from the donor van. These will replace the area missing in the load area. Date: 03/12/06 More unpicked and filleted bits from the donor van. This will replace the rusted sections where the wood floor screws into the tray
I still have some rust issues to deal with - but we are nearly at the end of all that - I have had a few false starts on this area- I keep getting busy elsewhere.
The Ute is balanced with counter weights to lift it up on the hoist like this - so I f
Date: 03/12/06 I still have some rust issues to deal with - but we are nearly at the end of all that - I have had a few false starts on this area- I keep getting busy elsewhere.
The Ute is balanced with counter weights to lift it up on the hoist like this - so I figured the safest way to work here was to bolt the front of the car back on.
Date: 14/12/06 Time to balance this car a bit better- which leads to repairing other components such as these door hinges. I worked out by using parts from rear door hinges and travelling around many wreckers- I was able to source enough hinges to choose from. This took quite while - but I got there in the end- I have sandblasted several hinges and rebuilt some -THEN I picked out the best set. Now the doors swing like new.
With the subframe wrestled on - (this was previously powder coated about two years ago!)- I have started trail fitting panels and seeing what fits. Looking good so far! I'm chasing crisp lines and perfect gaps ( aren't we all!?) Date: 24/01/07 With the subframe wrestled on - (this was previously powder coated about two years ago!)- I have started trail fitting panels and seeing what fits. Looking good so far! I'm chasing crisp lines and perfect gaps ( aren't we all!?)
This one will be controversial! I am restoring this Ute totally back to stock specs. As for any HG grilles -I cant find a NOS one or one in perfect condition.Some time a few decades ago - I had come up with this combo- that has been copied ever Date: 24/01/07 This one will be controversial! I am restoring this Ute mostly back to factory stock specs. As for any HG grilles -I cant find a NOS one or one in perfect condition.
Some time a few decades ago - I had come up with this combo- that has been copied everywhere since. I was lucky enough to come across a stack of NOS HK grilles- but my car is a HG... Hmmm - Now here is where it gets tricky - I cut the three upper bars from a spare NOS grill that had some marks on it elsewhere. I removed the heavy centre HK grill bar and attached the three grille bars. Thus giving the car a single headlight Prem front! So yes its customised- but it is done using factory parts so I dont feel I have cheated on my building theme. I have another trick or two like this up my sleeve for some other areas as well.
Any fool can restore a car - But I'm well known for customising - my aim is to do it with a factory look- using factory components.
A few years ago I bought this NOS HG bonnet. It has survived miraculously well considering how many hands it went through - unfortunately - its got some surface rust that has to be dealt with. Date: 15/12/06 A few years ago I bought this NOS HG bonnet. It has survived miraculously well considering how many hands it went through - unfortunately - its got some surface rust that has to be dealt with.
A thorough and careful sanding removed the factory etch primer- I also had to spot blast some heavier rust pits. After all that I washed the whole surface down with some metal prep acid - just to be sure all the rust has gone. Date: 15/12/06 A thorough and careful sanding removed the factory etch primer- I also had to spot blast some heavier rust pits. After all that I washed the whole surface down with some metal prep acid - just to be sure all the rust has gone.
Unfortunately the underside was little better- at least it had no major rust like you would find on a 3year old second hand bonnet. Date: 15/12/06 Unfortunately the underside was little better- at least it had no major rust like you would find on a 35+ year old second hand bonnet.
Here is the factory authentication sticker. Date: 15/12/06 Here is the factory authentication sticker.
After a thorough clean up underneath that took a whole Saturday morning - the bonnet was clean - but Im afraid all this attention ran the risk of warping the outer skin - which it did in a few places slightly. I had little choice- the bonnet had to b Date: 16/12/06 After a thorough clean up underneath that took a whole Saturday morning - the bonnet was clean - but Im afraid all this attention ran the risk of warping the outer skin - which it did in a few places slightly. I had little choice- the bonnet had to be rid of rust. I knew this would happen. A few bumps with a rubber mallet- got most of it out- but I knew it wasn't such a good bonnet anymore.
I primed the bonnet later with some PPG DP40 and put it aside for the time being in disgust.
This gives a more complete picture of how the new grille works. Also I have been wrestling with the warped Bonnet I put aside in disgust - I cant let any panel get the better of me so ... Date: 25/01/07 This gives a more complete picture of how the new grille works. Also I have been wrestling with the warped Bonnet I put aside in disgust - I cant let any panel get the better of me so ...
...a bit of crafty heat shrinking with this magical wand- a carbon tipped shrinker- pulled the skin back to where it belonged. What warped panels? Thanks to a mate who read my mind Eds who loaned me his shrinker tool (very uncanny - he turned u Date: 26/01/07 ...a bit of crafty heat shrinking with this magical wand- a carbon tipped shrinker- pulled the skin back to where it belonged. What warped panels? Thanks to a mate (Des) who read my mind -loaned me his shrinker tool (very uncanny - he turned up out of the blue with this tool unannounced before I even rang him! VERY BIZZARE!!)
Im still trying to work out how he knew I wanted to use it...
With the bonnet sorted enough for now - onto a rust repair that has taken me 4 years to get around to finishing!- The other mudguard!
I have been buying more tools - and one of them was this Plasma cuter- its the ducks guts when it comes to trimming
Date: 26/01/07 With the bonnet sorted enough for now - onto a rust repair that has taken me 4 years to get around to finishing!- The other mudguard!
I have been buying more tools - and one of them was this Plasma cuter- its the ducks guts when it comes to trimming away out cancer and speed trimming anything else that gets in the way...
When not in use - you get a better look at it - basically it makes an arc- then compressed air blows away the molten metal - for a very neat distortion free cut. Boy I like new tools! Date: 26/01/07 When not in use - you get a better look at it - basically it makes an arc- then compressed air blows away the molten metal - for a very neat distortion free cut. Boy I like new tools!
After a fair amount of fiddling and manipulation I have juggled two new inner sections from rares spare into position and oxy hammer welded them home. I use the supplied bolt holes and massage the new pieces so they make a happy fit to the origi Date: 26/01/07 After a fair amount of fiddling and manipulation I have juggled two new inner sections from Rare Spares into position and oxy hammer welded them home. I use the supplied bolt holes and massage the new pieces so they make a happy fit to the original lumps 'n bumps.
The inner piece fitted surprisingly well- after some industrial swearing and severe manipulation with a hammer, dolly and oxy torch... Date: 26/01/07 The inner piece fitted surprisingly well- after some industrial swearing and severe manipulation with a hammer, dolly and oxy torch...
After trimming down and clamping with Vise grip pliers- the cut and paste begins-literally! In short a short cut is made in line with where the old panel was cut (a trained eye will make this guessing game easy!)
Only a short cut is made with the
Date: 26/01/07 After trimming down and clamping with Vise grip pliers- the cut and paste begins-literally! In short a short cut is made in line with where the old panel was cut (a trained eye will make this guessing game easy!)
Only a short cut is made with the 4" grinder fitted with the 1mm thick cutting wheel. The panel is mig spotted in place as we cannot get in behind with an oxy torch. we make a tack - pull away more of the excess with some pliers- and cut a little further etc etc ..
This one outer weld took me most of a Saturday. No distortion - no need for great gobs of filler- all metal finished pretty well. Date: 27/01/07 This one outer weld took me most of a Saturday. No distortion - no need for great gobs of filler- all metal finished pretty well.
Another view- this will only get a thin band of fibreglass filler to protect it from the elements leaching through microscopic pinholes in the welds. Plus a thin skim of smoo over that. Before body fillers- these repairs had to be this good so they o Date: 27/01/07 Another view- this will only get a thin band of fibreglass filler to protect it from the elements leaching through microscopic pinholes in the welds. Plus a thin skim of smoo over that. Before body fillers- these repairs had to be this good so they only required some red lead and block sanding. I figured if they could do this so good decades ago - then so could I!
These doors are the Ute's originals and have been sitting around for some years - so even though they were already blasted- I had Red blast 'em again. Good thing too as they had a slight amount of surface rust under the etch primer. This time around th Date: 05/05/07 These doors are the Ute's originals and have been sitting around for some years - so even though they were already blasted- I had Red blast 'em again. Good thing too as they had a slight amount of surface rust under the etch primer. This time around they will be getting a generous dose of PPGDP40 epoxy primer.
The couple of holes in the lower corner were brass filled with the oxy - or to be more precise- brazed. Date: 05/05/07 The couple of holes in the lower corner were brass filled with the oxy - or to be more precise- brazed.
While I have been busy on Scotty's Monaro project - Several parts of my HG Ute have been out of the shop getting completed. I was lucky enough to buy a New Old Stock- (NOS) HG Belmont twilight blue seat cover from the Internet for only $99! Later I bo Date: 22/05/07 While I have been busy on Scotty's Monaro project - Several parts of my HG Ute have been out of the shop getting completed. I was lucky enough to buy a New Old Stock- (NOS) HG Belmont twilight blue seat cover from the Internet for only $99! Later I bought some other NOS interior parts from the same company- Supertrim.
The seat frame was powdercoated after I reconditioned it using several seats for the much needed parts. Mostly springs. The Bolts and upholstery retaining clips were Zinc plated and the runners powdercoated as well thoroughly overhauled. Even the gre Date: 22/05/07 The seat frame was powdercoated after I reconditioned it using several seats for the much needed parts. Mostly springs. The Bolts and upholstery retaining clips were Zinc plated and the runners powdercoated and thoroughly overhauled. Even the grease used to lubricate the seat runners is the correct White Castrol grease from a NOS can from the late 60's!
Ahh back to doing some more rust work- you would reckon I would be running out of parts to replace on this Ute- and you would be nearly be right. The tray area where the wooden floor sits in has seen better days- while it wasn't too bad and I had alrea Date: 26/06/07 Ahh back to doing some more rust work- you would reckon I would be running out of parts to replace on this Ute- and you would be nearly be right. The tray area where the wooden floor sits in has seen better days- while it wasn't too bad and I had already oxy welded up the holes- It was showing signs of rust still trapped between the seams- so out it all came. this will mean that 75% of the tray area has now been replaced.
This section has been taken from a wagon I had sold to the wreckers- and had to buy back...
I was nearly sure the wagon load area was the same- and it turns out I was right- and it wasn't rusty! A lot of cleaning, blasting, unpicking and finessing h
Date: 26/06/07 This section has been taken from a wagon I had sold to the wreckers- and had to buy back...
I was nearly sure the wagon load area was the same- and it turns out I was right- and it wasn't rusty! A lot of cleaning, blasting, unpicking and finessing has gone into this part to resemble NOS (New Old Stock)
The load area has been replaced along the whole left side now. The right side was two thirds replaced. A generous coating of PPG Etch during every stage ensure that rust wont creep in again before I get a chance to final paint it all. Date: 29/06/07 The load area has been replaced along the whole left side now. The right side was two thirds replaced. A generous coating of PPG Etch during every stage ensure that rust wont creep in again before I get a chance to final paint it all.
With the tray area sorted - onto some more rust at the drivers side rear. The first step was to remove the bulk of the rusty metal Date: 03/07/07 With the tray area sorted - onto some more rust at the drivers side rear. The first step was to remove the bulk of the rusty metal
looking up from underneath - thats a fairly large and complex area to replace... Luckily we have more spare cuts gathered... Date: 03/07/07 looking up from underneath - thats a fairly large and complex area to replace... Luckily we have more spare cuts gathered...
Some of this area had been lightly repaired 21 years ago - but it looks to me that it was never properly sorted out then. Rust never sleeps and all the rust proofing back then amount to nothing as it was already too late. Date: 03/07/07 Some of this area had been lightly repaired 21 years ago - but it looks to me that it was never properly sorted out then. Rust never sleeps and all the rust proofing back then amount to nothing as it was already too late.
At least when it came to removal - there wasn't a lot to unpick here- you can sort of see where this extra inner brace was meant to be if you look at the remnants on the ends. Date: 03/07/07 At least when it came to removal - there wasn't a lot to unpick here- you can sort of see where this extra inner brace was meant to be if you look at the remnants on the ends.
The replacement section - taken from another wagon over 6 months ago has sat around the workshop and now its unpicked and blasted clean it is as close to perfect as we are gunna get. It has some slight pit marks but isn't thin or holey. Date: 03/07/07 The replacement section - taken from another wagon over 6 months ago has sat around the workshop and now its unpicked and blasted clean it is as close to perfect as we are gunna get. It has some slight pit marks but isn't thin or holey.
The visible area on the underside has no real pit marks or blemishes. As you can see this part is just a little too complex to hand make and be accurate so a donor part is necessary for this operation. Date: 03/07/07 The visible area on the underside has no real pit marks or blemishes. As you can see this part is just a little too complex to hand make and be accurate so a donor part is necessary for this operation.
The replacement section is offered up and its now obvious as to what metal needs to be replaced. Using unpicked donor sections makes this work a breeze. Date: 03/07/07 The replacement section is offered up and its now obvious as to what metal needs to be replaced. Using unpicked donor sections makes this work a breeze.
After a bit of head scratching I figured out how to make up the missing metal. I folded some new steel of the same guage up into a right angle and then ran that through my shrinker stretcher using the new donor piece as a guide. Date: 03/07/07 After a bit of head scratching I figured out how to make up the missing metal. I folded some new steel of the same guage up into a right angle and then ran that through my shrinker stretcher using the new donor piece as a guide.
That lower flange will be spot welded in eventualy. Its an od area that dosent run parrelel to the outer as you would expect like you would expect. Date: 03/07/07 That lower flange will be spot welded in eventualy. Its an od area that dosent run parrelel to the outer as you would expect like you would expect.
After a fair amount of trial fitting and trimming the replacement metal is welded home. To achieve a correct fit - the section was tack welded with the new lower donor section in place then that was unclamped so I could oxy hammer weld the new metal Date: 04/07/07 After a fair amount of trial fitting and trimming the replacement metal is welded home. To achieve a correct fit - the section was tack welded with the new lower donor section in place then that was unclamped so I could oxy hammer weld the new metal in properly.
There were other minor sections that need equally minor patches- these bits may look simple but are painfully fiddly to make and fit - this is where fingers get burnt! Date: 04/07/07 There were other minor sections that need equally minor patches- these bits may look simple but are painfully fiddly to make and fit - this is where fingers get burnt!
Now the new lower donor section is welded home at last. This took days of trial fitting and trimming - interruptions always drag this process out... Note I have left as much of the outer wheel arch intact as possible - you will see why later... Date: 04/07/07 Now the new lower donor section is welded home at last. This took days of trial fitting and trimming - interruptions always drag this process out... Note I have left as much of the outer wheel arch intact as possible - you will see why later...
Moths ago I bought a whole 8x4 foot sheet of steel just to make this one part. Even though there was not a lot wrong with the original- it was necessary to remove this fake wheel wheel plate to acsess all the inner structure I have just replaced. Some of Date: 04/07/07 Months ago I bought a whole 8x4 foot sheet of steel just to make this one part. Even though there was not a lot wrong with the original- it was necessary to remove this fake wheel wheel plate to acsess all the inner structure I have just replaced. Some of the sedan DNA lingers in these comercial models and this would be the spare tyre recess area in a sedan - but in a commercial or wagon GMH elected to sort of leave most of it there. I elected to make a new section as by the time I unpicked the original it was easier to make a new and subsequently straight peice.
A rough cardboard template is made to gauge what needs to be made in metal. Why is it rough? well the design will change a few times from here. Now you can see why I chose to leave a bit of the the old wheel arch. Date: 05/07/07 A rough cardboard template is made to gauge what needs to be made in metal. Why is it rough? well the design will change a few times from here. Now you can see why I chose to leave a bit of the the old wheel arch.
There isn't much to see from this side but its also important to see whats going on and what might need to be rectified in metal. With the outer panel removed this gives plenty of access to make the new inner. About now I will offer up the replacement o Date: 05/07/07 There isn't much to see from this side but its also important to see whats going on and what might need to be rectified in metal. With the outer panel removed this gives plenty of access to make the new inner. About now I will offer up the replacement outer to check I'm on the right track with the inner. Quite a juggling match as I will have all sections made and have to be able to check that everything marries up before too much welding takes place.
The rough cardboard patch is transferred to steel. Now the fun begins. Date: 05/07/07 The rough cardboard patch is transferred to steel. Now the fun begins.
I quite enjoy making patches - the more complex the more of an interesting challenge! Date: 07/07/07 I quite enjoy making patches - the more complex the more of an interesting challenge! This patch took a few hours and I kept finessing it until it clipped neatly into position and fitted perfectly.
The challenge I set myself was if I could make it in cardboard in one piece then I could replicate that in steel. Except that cardboard is easier to work with than thick steel! But I eventually succeeded. This piece only had one small weld in the corner Date: 07/07/07 The challenge I set myself was if I could make it in cardboard in one piece then I could replicate that in steel. Except that cardboard is easier to work with than thick steel! But I eventually succeeded. This piece only had one small weld in the corner.
Not the clearest of pics but here is the patch installed at last. Date: 12/07/07 Not the clearest of pics but here is the patch installed at last.
The rest of the complex inner installation now complete. Date: 12/07/07 The rest of the complex inner installation now complete.
The Rare Spares outer has also been tweaked and installed by Oxy Hammer welding - thanks to my wife for her assistance once again for holding the dolly inside while I ironed out the wrinkles. Still a few minor wrinkles to sort before a smear of smoo to f Date: 12/07/07 The Rare Spares outer has also been tweaked and installed by Oxy Hammer welding - thanks to my wife for her assistance once again for holding the dolly inside while I ironed out the wrinkles. Still a few minor wrinkles to sort before a smear of smoo to finish it off. It has been epoxy primed (PPGDP40)in readiness for that at a later date..
Now about the only rust left to rectify is this mess done over 21 years ago. No doubt it was functional at the time- but not good enough for the high standard I'm aiming for. Date: 12/07/07 Now about the only rust left to rectify is this mess done over 21 years ago on the left side of the car. No doubt it was functional at the time- but not good enough for the high standard I'm aiming for.
This is the same operation I undertook on Scotty's Monaro- replacing the radio plate. Due to an oversize stereo being fitted years ago by myself this butchered area just had to be rectified. Even though I am not planning to fit a radio at this stage, I m Date: 12/07/07 This is the same operation I undertook on Scotty's Monaro- replacing the radio plate. Due to an oversize stereo being fitted years ago by myself this butchered area just had to be rectified. Even though I am not planning to fit a radio at this stage, I might find an original radio and decide AM stations are no so bad after all...
This close up shows how carried away I got - all metal finished an no requirement for body filler whatsoever. This took the best part of two days for the entire procedure. The radio/heater plate was taken from one of my well picked over donor cars- so g Date: 12/07/07 This close up shows how carried away I got - all metal finished an no requirement for body filler whatsoever. This took the best part of two days for the entire procedure. The radio/heater plate was taken from one of my well picked over donor cars- so good thing I have not yet sent them to scrap. You never know what will come in handy!
If you have a warped radio grill- here is the solution to get it straight again. Normally after sandblasting this grill becomes wavy. By carefully hitting along the raised edge here as shown with a bolster- the grill amazingly comes straight again. Do Date: 12/07/07 If you have a warped radio grill- here is the solution to get it straight again. Normally after sandblasting this grill becomes wavy. By carefully hitting along the raised edge here as shown with a bolster- the grill amazingly comes straight again. Don't over do it or it will be too full in appearance.
As with all projects that take a while- sometimes better parts turn up. I had a look at a bonnet I had in stock and decided to paint strip it and see how good it was. I have already repaired the NOS bonnet i had- and decided to repair this one as well Date: 01/01/03 As with all projects that take a while- sometimes better parts turn up. I had a look at a bonnet I had in stock and decided to paint strip it and see how good it was. I have already repaired the NOS bonnet i had- and decided to repair this one as well and this gives me a choice of which one to use. I might go for this second hand one as it has less repairs and more importantly - the factory rivets on the leading edge to hold the moulding on.
Paint stripping rather than blasting- can reveal all sorts of things - such as this 'Lysaght Australia' Date: 31/12/02 Paint stripping rather than blasting- can reveal all sorts of things - such as this 'Lysaght Australia' -which is the company that supplied much of the steel sheeting in rolls for Holdens bodies. These rolls were trimmed down for individual panels and stamped. So it's no surprise to see the etching here as shown-although I must say it is a rare thing to find. Sandblasting would not have revealed this treasure.
The restoration of other parts continues- The LSD 2:78 Banjo diff has been blasted and this is just prior to etch priming - we did the springs as well. The tail shaft was reconditioned years ago and has been sitting on a shelf ever since. Date: 08/03/07 The restoration of other parts continues- The LSD 2:78 Banjo diff has been blasted and this is just prior to etch priming - we did the springs as well. The tail shaft was reconditioned years ago and has been sitting on a shelf ever since.
The Steering Box has been reconditioned as well by TBS Capalaba- the same company I use for all my Brake parts. Date: 31/12/02 The Steering Box has been reconditioned as well by TBS Capalaba- the same company I use for all my Brake parts.
307 Chev restored The 307 engine has been extensively restored throughout this year. RLC engines were responsible for the engines reconditioning. It still has the standard 307 bore and now sports quality components inside. I elected to have the heads converted to unleaded Date: 01/01/03 The 307 engine has been extensively restored throughout this year. RLC engines were responsible for the engines reconditioning. It still has the standard 307 bore and now sports quality components inside. I elected to have the heads converted to unleaded and some bowl work has been done to blend the new steel seats into the heads- something which is often overlooked during such a conversion. The cam is a mild crow cam and the valve springs have been uprated to Crane. In short the motor is stock - just brought up to modern specs a little and allowed to breathe and rev a bit more freely. This is a numbers matching engine with the exception of the WW stromberg Carb and air cleaner- both of which have been detailed and made to look like the OEM parts. The Distributor is new and is now electronic- but still resembles the standard unit.
307 Chev restored Date: 01/01/03 I have decided at this point to take a different direction with this project. Now we are building a new motor- an 11 second 383 to be precise - so this fresh 307 engine and many associated parts is now for sale. Note that the air conditioning will be sold seperatley to the engine. Ring me for more details on (07) 3206 0340 or 0412 032 239
One of my mates that collects Holdens - turned up to show off his latest acquisition. This HG Belmont Ute is very original and wasnt parked for more than two minutes before I was off to measure up the badge locations and positioning. Date: 01/01/03 One of my mates that collects Holdens - turned up to show off his latest acquisition. This HG Belmont Ute is very original and wasnt parked for more than two minutes before I was off to measure up the badge locations and positioning.
My poor Ute has seen active duty as a work bench for sorting out Scotty's Monaro parts in the last few months. Work has begun on measuring up for the custom built nine inch diff by placing my new Weld wheels and Mickey Thompson Tyres under the tubs Date: 01/01/03 My poor Ute has seen active duty as a work bench for sorting out Scotty's Monaro parts in the last few months. Work has begun on measuring up for the custom built nine inch diff by placing my new Weld wheels and Mickey Thompson Tyres under the tubs.
Now the new old stock Belmont badges are fitted. It was a hard decision to drill holes in a NOS tailgate- but the Ute needs its identity back. No the car wont sit this low- as tuff as it looks- the hoist has crept down over the last few weeks. Wheels are Date: 01/01/03 Now the new old stock Belmont badges are fitted. It was a hard decision to drill holes in a NOS tailgate- but the Ute needs its identity back. No the car wont sit this low- as tuff as it looks- the hoist has crept down over the last few weeks. Wheels are on the rear -Weld 15x8 with 3 1/2 inch back space. Tyres are 26 inch tall 15x 8 Mickey Thompson ET Street Radials- Fronts are 15x5 Weld wheels with MT front runners.
The new and quite expensive 9 inch. Narrowed 4 inches with billet end flanges and now sporting a new True Trac LSD, Motive 3.7 gears and a hell of a lot of finessing to the housing to make it pretty. Date: 03/01/03 The new and quite expensive 9 inch. Narrowed 4 inches with billet end flanges and now sporting a new True Trac LSD, Motive 3.7 gears and a hell of a lot of finessing to the housing to make it pretty.
The diff housing was sand blasted and epoxy primed- and I spent a day prepping ready for a decent coat or three of Satin Black Date: 03/01/03 The diff housing was sand blasted and epoxy primed- and I spent a day prepping ready for a decent coat or three of Satin Black
Carrying the power to the ends of the diff are these Custom made Moser axles. Many thanks go to Joe Gearon at Direct marine and automotive for building the nine Inch. Joe has been building nine inch diffs for me for many years- originaly when he was Date: 03/01/03 Carrying the power to the ends of the diff are these Custom made Moser axles. Many thanks go to Joe Gearon at Direct Marine and Automotive for building the nine Inch. Joe has been building nine inch diffs for me for many years- originally when he was employed at Superformance
This man is a Carpenter Joiner- so we cant show you his face - plus he ain't pretty close up. This is actually Kevin Knuth - my NZ bro in law over for a quick visit (the wife's a KIWI not me!)
Kevi-bro wanted something to do - and seeing as I had all th
Date: 31/12/02 This man is a Carpenter Joiner- so we cant show you his face - plus he ain't pretty close up. This is actually Kevin Knuth - my NZ bro in law over for a quick visit (the wife's a KIWI not me!)
Kevi-bro wanted something to do - and seeing as I had all the materials for the new floor in stock - who better to make a precise fitting and custom made floor? Here Kevi - bro sizes up some template material.
Note the vintage streetneat Tee
C'mon Kev - get it right...No worries there- I couldn't have a better bloke on the job- you should see the hand made furniture this bloke has made in his house. Date: 31/12/02 C'mon Kev - get it right...
No worries there- I couldn't have a better bloke on the job- you should see the hand made furniture this bloke has in his house.
Some MDF board from the cover sheet of the custom milled board we have comes in handy to make the complex shapes involved. Complex you ask? Yep- the floor recess has more dips , tapers and kick-ins than you would imagine. Date: 31/12/02 Some MDF board from the cover sheet of the custom milled board we have comes in handy to make the complex shapes involved. Complex you ask? Yep- the floor recess has more dips , tapers and kick-ins than you would imagine.
And here is one of Kevin's tricks- a bolt taped to a pencil follows the contours just nicely. The petrol head ring is a give away to Kev's true passion.... Date: 31/12/02 And here is one of Kevin's tricks- a bolt taped to a pencil follows the contours just nicely. The petrol head ring is a give away to Kev's true passion....
A whole morning was spent getting the contours right. The MDF copped a few trimmings before Kev declared it happy... Date: 31/12/02 A whole morning was spent getting the contours right. The MDF copped a few trimmings before Kev declared it happy...
...and then some fine sanding to get it closer. Date: 31/12/02 ...and then some fine sanding to get it closer.
The template is transferred to the custom ordered Marine ply. The dimensions of the HG Ute floor dictates the use of two 8x4 sheets. Luckily my brother Robert works for Bunnings and was able to jack up the ordering of custom board. Date: 01/01/03 The template is transferred to the custom ordered Marine ply. The dimensions of the HG Ute floor dictates the use of two 8x4 sheets. Luckily my brother Robert works for Bunnings and was able to jack up the ordering of custom board.
Kevin has made a complete MDF template from several individual pieces- all laid in the Utes floor recess and glued together. The new floor material is cut within a half inch - you will see why shortly Date: 01/01/03 Kevin has made a complete MDF template from several individual pieces- all laid in the Utes floor recess and glued together. The new floor material is cut within a half inch - you will see why shortly
..and here is why - the MDF becomes a guide for the router. Luckily I had bought up woodwork tools when they came on special... even though I rarely work in wood. Date: 01/01/03 ..and here is why - the MDF becomes a guide for the router. Luckily I had bought up woodwork tools when they came on special... even though I rarely work in wood.
The router has a bearing above the cutting blade and this bearing follows the MDF board while removing material from the ply underneath. The router bits were $20 for a whole assortment from crazy Clarks- who cares it only does a few jobs? The expensive Date: 01/01/03 The router has a bearing above the cutting blade and this bearing follows the MDF board while removing material from the ply underneath. The router bits were $20 for a whole assortment from crazy Clarks- who cares it only does a few jobs? The expensive bits wear out too ya know- just probably not as fast. Kevin went lightly and was impressed with just how much mileage he got from the cheaper bit.
Another woodwork tool I had grabbed was this biscuit cutter. Kevin declared it Crap - but was able to work with it - the idea being we will join the two sheets together. Date: 01/01/03 Another woodwork tool I had grabbed was this biscuit cutter. Kevin declared it Crap - but was able to work with it - the idea being we will join the two sheets together.
The wood 'biscuits' sit in the recess made by the cutter and glue makes up for any extra gaps - luckily we had a snug fit with the biscuits. Corrosponding marks on the opposing sheet was made prior to the biscuit cutter coming out.Simply line up the Date: 01/01/03 The wood 'biscuits' sit in the recess made by the cutter and glue makes up for any extra gaps - luckily we had a snug fit with the biscuits. Corrosponding marks on the opposing sheet was made prior to the biscuit cutter coming out.Simply line up the marks and cut away.
Plenty of biscuits and plenty of glue- messy yes- but you ain't having fun without a little mess... Date: 01/01/03 Plenty of biscuits and plenty of glue- messy yes- but you ain't having fun without a little mess...
The whole lot was clamped, hammered and forced together. Note opposing clamps are used - this will stop the board from kicking up or down. Date: 01/01/03 The whole lot was clamped, hammered and forced together. Note opposing clamps are used - this will stop the board from kicking up or down.
And here it it all is in place. The centre floor join will disappear under the cover strips- original ones of course. Date: 03/01/03 And here it it all is in place. The centre floor join will disappear under the cover strips- original ones of course.
Well the 307 we have built is no longer required- we want to go fast so I had JP Racing ( John Payne ) build me this rather tough 383 stroker motor. Its estimated around 450 plus HP. Basically a 4 bolt motor with Kiwi Pro heads - a very large cam an Date: 08/11/07 Well the 307 we have built is no longer required- we want to go fast so I had JP Racing ( John Payne ) build me this rather tough 383 stroker motor. Its estimated around 450 plus HP. Basically a 4 bolt motor with Kiwi Pro heads - a very large cam and lots of trick bits inside we dont wont to tell you about.
From every angle this thing looks great... Date: 08/11/07 From every angle this thing looks great...
All accessories used are Genuine GM - this is in keeping with my theme of using genuine parts through out the HG Project. Date: 08/11/07 All accessories used are Genuine GM - this is in keeping with my theme of using genuine parts through out the HG Project.
The nine inch is finally in position as are the new Weld wheels. I have temporarily fitted the fuel tank so we can later construct the exhaust around it. Date: 08/11/07 The nine inch is finally in position as are the new Weld wheels. I have temporarily fitted the fuel tank so we can later construct the exhaust around it.
Yep the motor will fit between the chassis rails.. Date: 08/11/07 Yep the motor will fit between the chassis rails..
The idea is to lower the car over the motor- far easier than trying to dangle it from an engine crane and position in place. Date: 08/11/07 The idea is to lower the car over the motor- far easier than trying to dangle it from an engine crane and position in place.
How it all works is when I picked the engine up from John I took an old engine crate from one of the crate motors I bought some time ago. This helps to transport it home without damage. I sit that crate onto a wheeled pallet- this lets me move it aroun Date: 11/11/07 How it all works is when I picked the engine up from John I took an old engine crate from one of the crate motors I bought some time ago. This helps to transport it home without damage. I sit that crate onto a wheeled pallet- this lets me move it around with ease to wherever I want. I then remove the front block mounts ( motor sits on sump at this point) - attach engine mounts and Front cross member.
I then lower the car over the whole lot very carefully - and can now simply add the two or three crossmember bolts - and the motor is in! But what I normally do is constantly raise and lower the car to make adding parts to the engine easier. Date: 08/11/07 I then lower the car over the whole lot very carefully - and can now simply add the two or three crossmember bolts - and the motor is in! But what I normally do is constantly raise and lower the car to make adding parts to the engine easier.
...like the alternator and other hard to get to parts. Date: 11/11/07 ...like the alternator and other hard to get to parts.
The two cars that took up all of 2007... Thankfully the Monaro is now done and the HG Ute can now have its turn. Date: 04/12/07 The two cars that took up all of 2007... Thankfully the Monaro is now done and the HG Ute can now have its turn.
This is the first time in many years the HG Ute has been able to roll out of the shed on its own wheels. In short what I do is assemble everything onto the car, check for correct fitment and alignment of all parts- then pull the whole lot apart for pain Date: 04/12/07 This is the first time in many years the HG Ute has been able to roll out of the shed on its own wheels. In short what I do is assemble everything onto the car, check for correct fitment and alignment of all parts- then pull the whole lot apart for painting.
The grill really looks the part and is a streetneat original creation from the early 1080's. The trick is not to add badges and using NOS grills certainly helps to make sure that it all matches. Date: 04/12/07 The grill really looks the part and is a streetneat original creation from the early 1980's. The trick is not to add badges and using NOS grills certainly helps to make sure that it all matches.
Well lots of small fiddly jobs have been taking place - like trial fitting all the driveline. Date: 15/01/08 Well lots of small fiddly jobs have been taking place - like trial fitting all the driveline.
As I want to retain the Belmonts simple clean lines - no brutal lumps of hardware poking its nose outta my panels thanks. So I sat and stared for a long while before I grabbed some cardboard to give me so direction. Here was I think I was being quit Date: 15/01/08 As I want to retain the Belmonts simple clean lines - no brutal lumps of hardware poking its nose outta my panels thanks. So I sat and stared for a long while before I grabbed some cardboard to give me some direction. Here was I thinking I was being quite clever and original - until someone came in and said "Cool- Brock air intake"
Bugger - and I thunk it all up myself too... Great minds think alike I s'pose...
Now replicated in aluminium - and welded up with my Henrob oxy torch - the cold air intake should work a treat. I 'm gunna see how it stands up to the vibrations - as I have it centre mounted on top of the 750 Demon carb and held down with Dzus fasten Date: 24/01/08 Now replicated in aluminium - and welded up with my Henrob oxy torch - the cold air intake should work a treat. I 'm gunna see how it stands up to the vibrations - as I have it centre mounted on top of the 750 Demon carb and held down with Dzus fasteners to the radiator- it will be interesting to see how it hangs on. According to legend- this is pretty much how the old V8's used to run around Bathurst. What you cant see in this pic is the 5-6 inches of flap continuing down in behind the grill - this will scoop up cold air and direct it into the big mouth of the intake. The idea was to minimise the amount of heat being drawn into the carby.
Ive come up with a neat way of determining where to make relief cuts in the intakes side to allow the bonnet to close and clear without restriction. I rolled up some black butyl mastic from a unused cold windscreen fitting kit. I place this on the Date: 30/01/08 Ive come up with a neat way of determining where to make relief cuts in the intakes side to allow the bonnet to close and clear without restriction. I rolled up some black butyl mastic from a unused cold windscreen fitting kit. I place this on the approximate location - bring the bonnet down and it leaves a perfect imprint of where the bracing touches. All thats left is to make a pen mark around the area and cut away the excess material. Works a treat!
Some of the other aspect of the resto have also been happening - like the complete resto and trial fit of the 1/4 windows, the Dash top rescued, repaired, revived and recoloured - as were the some original vinyl floor mats. The steering column was pu Date: 18/01/08 Some of the other aspect of the Utes resto have also been happening quietly and continuously- like the complete resto and trial fit of the 1/4 windows, the Dash top rescued, repaired, revived and recoloured - as were some original vinyl floor mats. The steering column was pulled down and restored thoroughly as well- for the third time no less!. The brake pedal box copped the same treatment. Every aspect and component of this car is now new. When completed - this car will have that totally fresh show room feel - with not one item left untouched or appearing less than new.
All the brakes have been sourced and restored- we got a little carried away with the zinc plating -and done all the brake bits as well - no point fitting rusty parts!. Those axles are Moser Billet Items from the states. Note the use of rubber grease Date: 19/03/08 All the brakes have been sourced and restored- we got a little carried away with the zinc plating -and done all the brake bits as well - no point fitting rusty parts!. Those axles are Moser Billet Items from the states. Note the use of rubber grease on the stud threads to allow easier, no binding fitting of the wheel nuts.
The Brake lines are just about all made here as well. I bought a rather expensive Sykes pickvant brake double flare tool and must say it works great. Im using a new type of bundy line for the brake lines thats a lot easier to work with and is quite Date: 19/03/08 The Brake lines are just about all made here as well. I bought a rather expensive Sykes pickvant brake double flare tool and must say it works great. Im using a new type of bundy line for the brake lines thats a lot easier to work with and is quite malleable. All fittings are new or zinc plate originals.
Many thanks to Brad, Paul and Tony from Genie/ Wildcat exhausts at Brendale. These pipes had to be custom made to clear our standard column shift set up and standard kick down rods- it all works a treat now. The coating you see on these pipes is cer Date: 19/03/08 Many thanks to Brad, Paul and Tony from Genie/ Wildcat exhausts at Brendale. These pipes had to be custom made to clear our standard column shift set up and standard kick down rods- it all works a treat now. The coating you see on these pipes is ceramic- by Peter and Debbie at Competition Coatings QLD at Archerfield.
This is the whole system I made over ten days at Genie/Wildcat at Brendale- with out the assistance of Tony in their R&D Dept - this would never had been possible. I pretty much did most of this system myself- but Tony's input certainly made a huge Date: 19/03/08 This is the whole system I made over ten days at Genie/Wildcat at Brendale- with out the assistance of Tony in their R&D Dept - this would never had been possible. I pretty much did most of this system myself- but Tony's input certainly made a huge difference to the finished product.
The system consists of 3 inch pipe and mandrels all carefully tig welded by myself. The crossover should help quieten the horses- while letting more of them through. The muffs are Hurricane and the dogs are 16 inch from Genie. Later after I have tri Date: 19/03/08 The system consists of 3 inch pipe and mandrels all carefully tig welded by myself. The crossover should help quieten the horses- while letting more of them through. The muffs are Hurricane and the dogs are 16 inch from Genie. Later after I have trial run the car -and made sure there are no leaks or rattles- I will have the rest of the system ceramic coated at Competition Coatings QLD at Archerfield
The fuel system has been installed and of course if you have a fat engine to feed- you need some fat feed lines. Here is the junction where the 1/2 inch braid joins into the 1/2 aluminium line. Date: 16/05/08 The fuel system has been installed and of course if you have a fat engine to feed- you need some fat feed lines. Here is the junction where the 1/2 inch braid joins into the 1/2 aluminium line.
At the other end of the aluminium line it goes back to flexible braid line to make it easier for disassembly later and passing through the original fuel port in the floor.(you may notice there is fair amount of finishing off to be done yet- so all this ha Date: 16/05/08 At the other end of the aluminium line it goes back to flexible braid line to make it easier for disassembly later and passing through the original fuel port in the floor.(you may notice there is fair amount of finishing off to be done yet- so all this has to be able to come out again!)
The business end comprises of a fair amount of trickery with a few expensive Earls fittings and speciality dual demon bowl and pressure reg/gauge fittings...and yet more expensive braided line... Date: 16/05/08 The business end comprises of a fair amount of trickery with a few expensive Earls fittings and speciality dual demon bowl and pressure reg/gauge fittings...and yet more expensive braided line...
The rest of the trial fitting of engine bay parts is going nicely. Of course all this has all yet be removed for painting later. Note the HiFire ignition box on the firewall to manage the engine. Date: 16/05/08 The rest of the trial fitting of engine bay parts is going nicely. Of course all this has all yetto be removed for painting later. Note the HiFire ignition box on the firewall to manage the engine.
The twin Thermo fan set up is after-market from Ashdown Ingrams- It was most likely meant for a Falcon - but after a bit of trimming and a few custom brackets it fits the HQ style 4 core radiator just nicely. Date: 16/05/08 The twin Thermo fan set up is after-market from Ashdown Ingrams- It was most likely meant for a Falcon - but after a bit of trimming and a few custom brackets it fits the HQ style 4 core radiator just nicely.
Here is very small example of the detail used in this build- all parts such as nuts bolts, clips and originally cadmium plated items has now all been zinc plated. Date: 16/05/08 Here is very small example of the detail used in this build- all parts such as nuts bolts, clips and originally cadmium plated items has now all been zinc plated.
The fuel tank has been extensively restored - then modified for a 1/2 inch pick up. A cunning plan came to fruition when scouring the shed for something suitable I came across a 6 cylinder Holden flywheel cover. A bit of trimming down made the perfect Date: 16/05/08 The fuel tank has been extensively restored - then modified for a 1/2 inch pick up. A cunning plan came to fruition when scouring the shed for something suitable I came across a 6 cylinder Holden flywheel cover. A bit of trimming down made the perfect reservoir and a dash 8 steel fitting welded in for the earls fitting to screw into. A holesaw cut to the bottom of the tank allows fuel to fill the reservoir but not slosh back out under acceleration
Quite a lot of incidental work has been taking place - such as the assembly of the NOS (new old stock) tail light assemblies and sorting out of the wiring. I have re I have been collecting quite a few original harnesses and have made one good one from Date: 04/06/08 Quite a lot of incidental work has been taking place - such as the assembly of the NOS (new old stock) tail light assemblies and sorting out of the wiring. I have re I have been collecting quite a few original harnesses and have made one good one from several donor cars. Its a tedious process replacing clips, sockets and connections- but the end result is a wiring harness like new
As you can see - the detail work is everywhere- especially in the areas you would not normally see. The car has to be pre- assembled entirely to be sure I have all the correct parts and everything works. The steering column is a hint at what the fin Date: 04/06/08 As you can see - the detail work is everywhere- especially in the areas you would not normally see. The car has to be pre- assembled entirely to be sure I have all the correct parts and everything works. The steering column is a hint at what the final colour will be.
It has been a long time coming - but it is time to start on the quarter panels file finishing. This area was wher ethe previous original badges were mounted - the holes had been filled - and now we are putting Belmont badges back. The problem is we c Date: 04/06/08 It has been a long time coming - but its time to start on file finishing the quarter panels. The original badges were mounted here previously - the holes had been filled and now we are putting Belmont badges back. The problem is we could only get NOS Sedan Belmont badges, which have 3 mounting pins but are otherwise the same. The original badges had a steel bracket in behind that was held in place by the badge itself. Those brackets are now long gone. Their purpose was two-fold, one was to mount the badge- and also to act as a support to the quarter panel. Remove the badges and the quarter panel suck inwards.
The rest of the quarter has been re panel beaten to overcome the clip filling that also took place twenty years ago. Other minor dents have also been massaged out and now the panel is starting to look fresh and crisp. Date: 04/06/08 Curiously 20+ years ago I watched this area be heat shrunk and re worked to stop the panel sucking inwards. Once the car was sandblasted - it became obvious the panel beater lost his patience and belted it all in and bogged it instead. Why? I will never know. I have now returned this area on both sides to better than new with a lot of hammer dolly work, shrinks and file finishing. The rest of the quarter has been re panel beaten to overcome the clip filling that also took place twenty years ago. Other minor dents have also been massaged out and now the panel is starting to look fresh and crisp.
Sometimes during projects you can lose hope of ever finding the right parts - then one day you stumble across the absolute improbable. The parts are the missing supports need to add strength to the Utes B' pillars. Originally these were held in place Date: 25/06/08 Sometimes during projects you can lose hope of ever finding the right parts - then one day you stumble across the absolute improbable. The parts are the missing supports need to add strength to the Utes B' pillars. Originally these were held in place by the Belmont badges. Apart from finding a matching pair of near perfect non rusted supports - even the felt is in great condition. I will have to work out anther way to fit these- the NOS Belmont badges I've got have three pins - these are the same badge but with two mounting pins in different locations on the back of the badge. With some minor modification - we can install these braces and return some integrity to the 1/4 panel
On the 12th of June 2008 - the Ute ran under its own power straight out of the shed. Its been many years between drives in this car - and I'm happy to say that all went rather well. All the body work has now been completed at last as has the electr Date: 06/07/08 On the 12th of June 2008 - the Ute ran under its own power straight out of the shed. Its been many years between drives in this car - and I'm happy to say that all went rather well. All the body work has now been completed at last as has the electrics.
The 383 stroker and Powerglide combo provide plenty of punch.
The way I build cars is to assemble most major components and get the car driveable and sort any gremlins. Im not overly surprised to see that everything worked as it should- the car driv
Date: 06/07/08 The 383 stroker and Powerglide combo provide plenty of punch.
The way I build cars is to assemble most major components and get the car driveable and sort any gremlins. Im not overly surprised to see that everything worked as it should- the car drives beautifully and all parts are harmonious with each other. My main concern was the rather large exhaust I've constructed- yet it presented no problems whatsoever. Even my aluminium under hood air intake works as it should.
The tray of the Ute has been getting quite a lot of attention. This is the final primer on after extensive massaging and smoothing has taken place. The primer is tinted De Beer - tinted to the approximate final colour of the car. Date: 09/07/08 The tray of the Ute has been getting quite a lot of attention. This is the final primer on after extensive massaging and smoothing has taken place. The primer is tinted De Beer - tinted to the approximate final colour of the car.
At this stage the Ute is still driveable. The next stage is to apply the polyester spray filler over the entire outside surface of the remaining panels. Leaving the Ute assembled will aid us in getting the lines right when we are blocking back the spra Date: 09/07/08 At this stage the Ute is still driveable. The next stage is to apply the polyester spray filler over the entire outside surface of the remaining panels. Leaving the Ute assembled will aid us in getting the lines right when we are blocking back the spray polyester.
When I bought my Canon SLR camera last year - My son Harold sort of took possession of my Fuji finepix point and shoot digital. Consequently - on school holidays - we get plenty of photos taken of Dad at work. The following is Harold's perspective on Date: 22/07/08 When I bought my Canon SLR camera last year - My son Harold sort of took possession of my Fuji finepix point and shoot digital. Consequently - on school holidays - we get plenty of photos taken of Dad at work. The following is Harold's perspective on the HG Ute project. In this shot I am buzzing back the many coats of Epoxy primer ( PPG DP40) that have been applied over the last few years as repairs have been carried out
The dark swirls are a special graphite powder. The paper I'm using on the dynabrade fine sander is 180 grit. Its important to remove any contaminants such as dust, grease, sweat and possum residue before laying on the final coats of Epoxy primer. Date: 22/07/08 The dark swirls are a special graphite powder. The paper I'm using on the dynabrade fine sander is 180 grit. Its important to remove any contaminants such as dust, grease, sweat and possum residue before laying on the final coats of Epoxy primer.
With the Ute all buzzed back and checked over - its time for the final epoxy priming on all outer surfaces. This reason for the final epoxy priming is to ensure all surfaces are covered before laying on the spray polyester. Date: 22/07/08 With the Ute all buzzed back and checked over - its time for the final epoxy priming on all outer surfaces. This reason for the final epoxy priming is to ensure all surfaces are covered before laying on the spray polyester.
Lots of careful back masking is required. I have started pulling parts from this Ute - but its still driveable at this stage-and I don't want overspray on my carefully restored and finished parts. Date: 22/07/08 Lots of careful back masking is required. I have started pulling parts from this Ute - but its still driveable at this stage-and I don't want overspray on my carefully restored and finished parts.
The method of back masking is to use 2" tape and half is stuck behind flanges and half is exposed. This allows masking paper to be applied and trimmed to suit. Date: 22/07/08 The method of back masking is to use 2" tape and half is stuck behind flanges and half is exposed. This allows masking paper to be applied and trimmed to suit.
...as can be seen here on the rear window. It appears to be a difficult process to the uninitiated it would look like industrial origami...which it sort of is... Date: 22/07/08 ...as can be seen here on the rear window. It appears to be a difficult process to the uninitiated it would look like industrial origami...which it sort of is...
Just 24 hours after epoxy priming - it was sprayed with three good coats of spray polyester. This spray polyester is essentially a spray on bog. As you can see its purpose is to level out all the repairs on the cars flanks Date: 22/07/08 Just 24 hours after epoxy priming - it was sprayed with three good coats of spray polyester. This spray polyester is essentially a spray on bog. As you can see its purpose is to level out all the repairs on the cars flanks
The method for levelling is via this bloody expensive dustless sanding system. A special vacuum cleaner removes the dust as sanding takes place - thus making it healthier and easier to sand and see whats going on. Lots of graphite powder is applied ag Date: 22/07/08 The method for levelling is via this bloody expensive dustless sanding system. A special vacuum cleaner removes the dust as sanding takes place - thus making it healthier and easier to sand and see whats going on. Lots of graphite powder is applied again as a guide coat.
This whole priming/spray bog and filing process took three to four solid days. Its essential to be comfortable as possible so you can spend more time on the finer details. Date: 22/07/08 This whole priming/spray bog and filing process took three to four solid days. Its essential to be comfortable as possible so you can spend more time on the finer details.
Looking back on this I get a chuckle out my expressions Harold has captured- but extreme concentration is paramount. Any slip ups at this stage- and it will show forever! Date: 22/07/08 Looking back on this I get a chuckle out my expressions Harold has captured- but extreme concentration is paramount. Any slip ups at this stage- and it will show forever!
As can be seen the guide coat is removed while sanding . Note here I am straightening up the lines down the centre of the car. Always follow the contours and never overwork an area or you will dig holes. Date: 22/07/08 As can be seen the guide coat is removed while sanding . Note here I am straightening up the lines down the centre of the car. Always follow the contours and never overwork an area or you will dig holes.
The beats lies in wait in the other shed - It seems a bit disturbed at the lack of attention. Date: 03/10/08 The beast lies in wait in the other shed - It seems a bit disturbed at the lack of attention.
...and it was only too happy to make its way back into the shop... Date: 03/10/08 ...and it was only too happy to make its way back into the shop...
Pics by Harold. In sepia tones you can clearly see how the polyester is sanded back to reveal straight lines. Its this critical stage that can make or break a paint job Date: 03/10/08 Pics by Harold. In sepia tones you can clearly see how the polyester is sanded back to reveal straight lines. Its this critical stage that can make or break a paint job
The long board file cam also be used in concurve areas like the rear window tulip panel. A progressive rolling motion is used and direct back and forth motion is avoided or we will end up with a series of railway tracks or grooves. The procedure is repea Date: 03/10/08 The long board file cam also be used in concurve areas like the rear window tulip panel. A progressive rolling motion is used and direct back and forth motion is avoided or we will end up with a series of railway tracks or grooves. The procedure is repeated in reverse from the other direction to aid in evening it all out. Rather like crosshatching a cylinder bore.
Like Hitchcock's Birds- they watch on silently as the tedious progress of block sanding continues....

First they were just a few ....
Date: 03/10/08 Like Hitchcock's Birds- they watch on silently as the tedious progress of block sanding continues....

First they were just a few ....
The guide coat you see is a graphite powder - applied with the automotive equivalent of a make up sponge. Date: 03/10/08 The guide coat you see is a graphite powder - applied with the automotive equivalent of a make up sponge.
I prefer to use metho for prep-wash after spray polyester sanding as its less greasy and will remove sweat or other water based contaminants easier, Date: 03/10/08 I prefer to use metho for prep-wash after spray polyester sanding as its less greasy and will remove sweat or other water based contaminants easier,
One rag wipes on and the other wipes off - using metho means it evaporates very quickly so speed is of the essence. Date: 03/10/08 One rag wipes on and the other wipes off - using metho means it evaporates very quickly so speed is of the essence.
...as is making sure that all recessed areas are spotlessly clean. Any dust left behind in these ares may cause 'bridging 'of subsequent top coats as the paints will shrink and tighten with age. The whole car is then re shot with PPG DP40 to seal up the s Date: 03/10/08 ...as is making sure that all recessed areas are spotlessly clean. Any dust left behind in these ares may cause 'bridging 'of subsequent top coats as the paints will shrink and tighten with age. The whole car is then re shot with PPG DP40 to seal up the sanded spray polyester.
Now all the panels come off for final prep and tinted primer. Date: 03/10/08 Now all the panels come off for final prep and tinted primer.
The Epoxy primer is sanded back with some 180 dry to make absolutely sure we have not missed any deep scratches in the polyester sanding stage. This is an extra step we haven't taken before but is quite worth it a it will make subsequent sanding easier Date: 03/10/08 The Epoxy primer is sanded back with some 180 dry to make absolutely sure we have not missed any deep scratches in the polyester sanding stage. This is an extra step we haven't taken before but is quite worth it a it will make subsequent sanding easier and the whole job less prone to future shrink back.
The final primer is tinted to closely match the final colour - oddly enough we were even able to replicate the metallic content in the primer. Its a pretty cool colour just as a primer- but we are not in the rat rod business so primer finishes are no Date: 03/10/08 The final primer is tinted to closely match the final colour - oddly enough we were even able to replicate the metallic content in the primer. Its a pretty cool colour just as a primer- but we are not in the rat rod business so primer finishes are not what streetneat is all about.
Prior to priming - all joints and seams are seam sealed with an appropriate sealer. This will make sure that any water from the future wet rubbing process wont get in and start corrosion. After priming but before wet rubbing all panels are given an in Date: 03/10/08 Prior to priming - all joints and seams are seam sealed with an appropriate sealer. This will make sure that any water from the future wet rubbing process wont get in and start corrosion. After priming but before wet rubbing all panels are given an initial rustproofing as well.
There always seems to be another hole we have missed. The car had power windows for many yeras- which earlier we were going to re instate- however we opted to just keep the Belmont flavour and cross that option off the list. The holes need to be fille Date: 03/10/08 There always seems to be another hole we have missed. The car had power windows for many yeras- which earlier we were going to re instate- however we opted to just keep the Belmont flavour and cross that option off the list. The holes need to be filled- so folow along as we do this.
A piece of card is used to thumb out the template for the hole. Date: 03/10/08 A piece of card is used to thumb out the template for the hole.
The depression left is quite discernable and is cut out. Date: 03/10/08 The depression left is quite discernable and is cut out.
..then that is checked for fit in the hole. Date: 03/10/08 ..then that is checked for fit in the hole.
That template is transferred to the same gauge steel as the hole we are filling. The template transfer process means it will come out slightly different to the hole we are filling so patience in achieving a snug fit is required. I normally aim to make th Date: 03/10/08 That template is transferred to the same gauge steel as the hole we are filling. The template transfer process means it will come out slightly different to the hole we are filling so patience in achieving a snug fit is required. I normally aim to make the patch smaller than the hole by a poofteenth.
Now if the patch becomes to hard to handle - a way of making it bigger again is to hammer its edges- this spreads the steel and by fine tuning like this you can achieve a snug fit in no time.
Well no time if you know what you are doing of course...
Date: 03/10/08 Now if the patch becomes to hard to handle - a way of making it bigger again is to hammer its edges- this spreads the steel and by fine tuning like this you can achieve a snug fit in no time.
Well no time if you know what you are doing of course...
The henrob torch comes into play again - the wire is just kept handy to dip into the molten weld just to add some beef. Fusion welds are quite neat - but not overly strong. Date: 03/10/08 The henrob torch comes into play again - the wire is just kept handy to dip into the molten weld just to add some beef. Fusion welds are quite neat - but not overly strong.
Apologies for the blurred pic- I was barking off requests to Harold to "get this shot now - he did pretty well thought. The cherry red weld is hammered- this also spreads the metal into itself and is called hammer welding. The net result is a neat Date: 03/10/08 Apologies for the blurred pic- I was barking off requests to Harold to "get this shot now - he did pretty well I thought. The cherry red weld is hammered- this also spreads the metal into itself and is called hammer welding. The net result is a neat and strong weld with little cleanup required.
After a lot of work on customers cars- I have finally been able to squeeze in some more time on finishing my own. I have rubbed down the epoxy - fixed any minor defects and got into the final priming on the outside of the body. Date: 03/10/08 After a lot of work on customers cars- I have finally been able to squeeze in some more time on finishing my own. I have rubbed down the epoxy - fixed any minor defects and got into the final priming on the outside of the body.
Normally we would dismantle the car before final priming - finding time to do so in a busy workshop isn't going to happen. I elected to leave the car driving for now as I cannot tie up parts of the workshop with a disabled non driving car - just yet.. Date: 03/10/08 Normally we would dismantle the car before final priming - finding time to do so in a busy workshop isn't going to happen. I elected to leave the car driving for now as I cannot tie up parts of the workshop with a disabled non driving car - just yet..
Each day I put the Ute outside to bake the primer. UV rays from the sun is the best curing agent - and free. Note the wheels have changed- this is our street legal rubber consisting of 5x14 s up front and 7x 14'rims up the rear. The Ute is minus its pip Date: 03/10/08 Each day I put the Ute outside to bake the primer. UV rays from the sun are the best curing agent - and free.
Note the wheels have changed- this is our street legal rubber consisting of 5x14 s up front and 7x 14'rims up the rear. The Ute is minus its pipes ATM so is quite flaming loud! Next step is complete tear down for final prep and paint.
Time for the Ute to come apart for painting. Its a fairly straight forward process - large chunks can come out as complete units such as the engine, gearbox and front suspension. Date: 13/10/08 Time for the Ute to come apart for painting. Its a fairly straight forward process - large chunks can come out as complete units such as the engine, gearbox and front suspension.
The exhaust is about the only part that has to taken from the engine itself - everything else remains intact. Date: 13/10/08 The exhaust is about the only part that has to taken from the engine itself - everything else remains intact.
The engine wiring harness is kept with the motor as well- this will allow for easy hook up upon re-assembly Date: 13/10/08 The engine wiring harness is kept with the motor as well- this will allow for easy hook up upon re-assembly
Note the exhaust ports are taped up to prevent things from making nests inside - its spring right now and mud wasps and leaf wasps are prevalent - so good idea to dissuade them from calling this Chevy home. Date: 13/10/08 Note the exhaust ports are taped up to prevent things from making nests inside - its spring right now and mud wasps and leaf wasps are prevalent - so good idea to dissuade them from calling this Chevy home.
The firewall had been wearing a preliminary coat of satin black primer for quite some time- now its time to prepare the firewall further- and weld up an extraneous hole I had missed. Date: 13/10/08 The firewall had been wearing a preliminary coat of satin black primer for quite some time- now its time to prepare the firewall further- and weld up an extraneous hole I had missed.
A generous coating of seam sealant over all seams inside replaces what the sandblasting and repair process had removed. Date: 13/10/08 A generous coating of seam sealant over all seams inside replaces what the sandblasting and repair process had removed.
The floor has been re primed with black etch prior to seam sealing - as I had a fair amount of grinding and general tidying up to do. Date: 13/10/08 The floor has been re primed with black etch prior to seam sealing - as I had a fair amount of grinding and general tidying up to do.
Nothing but bare bones here now - the long process of preparation for painting begins. Date: 13/10/08 Nothing but bare bones here now - the long process of preparation for painting begins.
The fire wall was re-primed, rubbed down and given its final coat of satin black 2k. Date: 13/10/08 The fire wall was re-primed, rubbed down and given its final coat of satin black 2k.
The underside saw a considerable amount of extra effort expended. Lots of tidying up and seam sealing before a coat of primer followed by water based stone guard for a textured finish. The whole lot was painted in more satin black 2k - (which is a bit Date: 13/10/08 The underside saw a considerable amount of extra effort expended. Lots of tidying up and seam sealing before a coat of primer followed by water based stone guard for a textured finish. The whole lot was painted in more satin black 2k - (which is a bit shiny and fresh in this pic as at has yet to cure to its final satin finish.)
Inside the car received a close approximation of the final colour with a direct gloss metallic 2k over more stone guard textured finish. Date: 13/10/08 Inside the car received a close approximation of the final colour with a direct gloss metallic 2k over more stone guard textured finish.
The dash is now wearing its final colour. This differs slightly from the exterior colour so it matches in with the NOS upholstery. The heat lamps are curing the satin clear which is on the very top of the dash only. Date: 13/10/08 The dash is now wearing its final colour. This differs slightly from the exterior colour so it matches in with the NOS upholstery. The heat lamps are curing the satin clear which is on the very top of the dash only.
The subframe has also been re repaired as some minor rust had set in again - due the extended time of sitting around without rustproofing. Its all fixed, rustproofed and painted in its final satin black 2k now. Date: 13/10/08 The subframe has also been re repaired as some minor rust had set in again - due to the extended time of sitting around without rustproofing. Its all fixed, rustproofed and painted in its final satin black 2k now.
With the subframe back on, reassembly continues starting with all the plumbing and other parts that are tricky to fit with the driveline in place. Date: 13/10/08 With the subframe back on, reassembly continues starting with all the plumbing and other parts that are tricky to fit with the driveline in place.
The steering column and pedal box assembly are reinstated. The interior painting is now complete so many of these parts can be put back for the final time. Date: 13/10/08 The steering column and pedal box assembly are reinstated. The interior painting is now complete so many of these parts can be put back for the final time.
The Ute is simply lowered over its driveline again - out of shot the diff has already been reinstalled. Why assemble the car before the final top coat has been applied? Well due to the fact all the panels need to be fitted for metallic paint to go o Date: 13/10/08 The Ute is simply lowered over its driveline again - out of shot the diff has already been reinstalled.

Why assemble the car before the final top coat has been applied? Well due to the fact all the panels need to be fitted for metallic paint to go on and we are diligent with our masking anyhow- we saw no need in this case not to go ahead with as much assembly as we can. Not to mention this clears the workshop of lots of big parts that have been getting covered in dust and getting in the way. We approach painting cars in several different ways - what ever is suiting the surrounding workload without compromising the end result.
Inside the original style of sound deadening has been applied in the original location. i was quite surprised this was still available and gives an authentic feel and finish. Date: 13/10/08 Inside the original style of sound deadening has been applied in the original location. I was quite surprised this was still available and gives an authentic feel and finish.
The original floor mat is quite fragile - so the best place for it was back in the car. The 'deluxe' underlay is very conforming to the floors shape and gives something supple for the mat to sit on. Dry and dustless sanding is the system we are usin Date: 13/10/08 The original floor mat is quite fragile - so the best place for it was back in the car. The 'deluxe' underlay is very conforming to the floors shape and gives something supple for the mat to sit on. Dry and dustless sanding is the system we are using in the insides of the Ute so moisture from wet rubbing these areas wont be an issue.
Before too much more paint prep is carried out- time to do the last of the pre assembly to make things fit. The floor strips are originals I purchased some years ago from a Van a guy was selling - he reluctantly sold me the much needed cargo strips. Here Date: 11/11/08 Before too much more paint prep is carried out- time to do the last of the pre assembly to make things fit. The floor strips are originals I purchased some years ago from a Van a guy was selling - he reluctantly sold me the much needed cargo strips. Here the strips are laid out and married up with the original holes - although they had since been oxy welded up - there was enough of an idea of were the strips had to go.
Note the area under the floor has been final painted in the same colour as the interior.
Finally the floor bro in law Kevin had helped me with can be screwed down. Some minor trimming for final fit and it now looks as original as the factory had it - well almost its gotta be painted yet! Date: 11/11/08 Finally the floor bro in law Kevin had helped me with can be screwed down. Some minor trimming for final fit and it now looks as original as the factory had it - well almost its gotta be painted yet!
The floor was then removed and the strips meticulously sand blasted, straightened and ready for some primer and paint. Date: 11/11/08 The floor was then removed and the strips meticulously sand blasted, straightened and ready for some primer and paint.
I spent an entire day wet rubbing the inside of the tray - I get all the fun jobs! I had considered dry rubbing but in the end with careful water control and constant mopping I was able to wet rub the tray and catch all the resulting sludge as I went w Date: 11/11/08 I spent an entire day wet rubbing the inside of the tray - I get all the fun jobs! I had considered dry rubbing but in the end with careful water control and constant mopping I was able to wet rub the tray and catch all the resulting sludge as I went with a vigilant eye and lotsa rags!
Now this is the definition of a long day! After spending all day we rubbing the tray - it was into the booth for a maskup and final paint prep. Date: 11/11/08 Now this is the definition of a long day! After spending all day we rubbing the tray - it was into the booth for a maskup and final paint prep.
The masking goes further than just the tray area- now is the time to make sure we get coverage in all the fiddly areas that are commonly overlooked in the final exterior paint job. Soft edge masking makes it possible to paint without ending up with hard l Date: 11/11/08 The masking goes further than just the tray area- now is the time to make sure we get coverage in all the fiddly areas that are commonly overlooked in the final exterior paint job. Soft edge masking makes it possible to paint without ending up with hard lines that would have to be rubbed out of the outside primed area.
...while the rest of the car is completely masked off with plastic and paper to ensure no over spray gets into already finished areas. Date: 11/11/08 ...while the rest of the car is completely masked off with plastic and paper to ensure no over spray gets into already finished areas.
Yours truly lays on some colour. I cant say this is as comfortable as it looks! Date: 11/11/08 Yours truly lays on some colour. I cant say this is as comfortable as it looks!
How to paint yourself into a corner! Actually the exit stratergy was planned ahead- over the side... Date: 11/11/08 How to paint yourself into a corner! Actually the exit stratergy was planned ahead- over the side...
Well now you can get a good look at the final colour at last. I finished this long day by 10.30pm - I had started before 5.00am! Date: 11/11/08 Well now you can get a good look at the final colour at last. I finished this long day by 10.30pm - I had started before 5.00am!
As wet as a butchersprick! The dulux Autospeed clear is brilliant stuff- a high solids clear that really retains this gloss level for a very long time. Date: 11/11/08 As wet as a butchersprick! The Dulux Autospeed clear is brilliant stuff- a high solids clear that really retains this gloss level for a very long time.
Every night for some weeks I was getting panels ready by day and painted by evening. Other work commitments meant I had to wait my turn for acsess to the booth. Date: 11/11/08 Every night for some weeks I was getting panels ready by day and painted by evening. Other work commitments meant I had to wait my turn for acsess to the booth.
In short the insides of all panels had to be prepped and painted first. The outs ides of the panels had already received an initial wet rubbing with 400 wet and after insides painting will be final rubbed with 800 wet. Date: 11/11/08 In short the insides of all panels had to be prepped and painted first. The outs ides of the panels had already received an initial wet rubbing with 400 wet and after insides painting will be final rubbed with 800 wet.
Items like this NOS tailgate can at last be seen in all its factory glory- great effort has been put into preserving all the spotwelds and other manufacturing marks. I detest smoothed up panels as its obvious its been bogged up to achieve that look. Nope Date: 11/11/08 Items like this NOS tailgate can at last be seen in all its factory glory- great effort has been put into preserving all the spotwelds and other manufacturing marks. I detest smoothed up panels as its obvious its been bogged up to achieve that look. Nope- factory fresh 'charcacter' for me and I know its not gunna crack up down the track.
even though the insides of the guards are pretty well not seen at all- Satin black has been applied and its important it gets to stay black without blue over spray. Date: 11/11/08 even though the insides of the guards are pretty well not seen at all- Satin black has been applied and its important it gets to stay black without blue over spray.
...the end result is quite fresh and makes a nice contrast- its all in the detail and the amount of effort becomes obvious now. Date: 11/11/08 ...the end result is quite fresh and makes a nice contrast- its all in the detail and the amount of effort becomes obvious now.
The door jambs on the car it self have also now been done in the final colour- this is a few shades different to the dash colour. Why? That will be come apparent later. Date: 11/11/08 The door jambs on the car it self have also now been done in the final colour- this is a few shades different to the dash colour. Why? That will be come apparent later.
..and to that extent - the two toning is carried into the door tops. After the inside of the door is coated in the exterior colour the door was masked off Ala Brougham style. This will allow for the interior to be all the same uninterrupted colour and m Date: 11/11/08 ..and to that extent - the two toning is carried into the door tops. After the inside of the door is coated in the exterior colour the door was masked off Ala Brougham style. This will allow for the interior to be all the same uninterrupted colour and match in nicely with the door cards.
The base coat is quite flat in appearance. This is just like acrylic to apply and dries pretty quickly. The is no two pack component in base coat colour- that comes later with the clear Date: 11/11/08 The base coat is quite flat in appearance. This is just like acrylic to apply and dries pretty quickly. The is no two pack component in base coat colour- that comes later with the clear
A closer look shows the dried base coat. This must be clear coated withing 24 hours at normal temperatures. If not - the clear can delaminate with age. We normally leave the base coat to cure up for 1/2 an hour with the booth running. Date: 11/11/08 A closer look shows the dried base coat. This must be clear coated withing 24 hours at normal temperatures. If not - the clear can delaminate with age. We normally leave the base coat to cure up for 1/2 an hour with the booth running.
In the mean time items such as the Glove box lid are blasted, repaired and prepared for Primer. Belmont Glove box lids are quite rare - so I am doing two at the same time - one for a spare or for sale. Date: 11/11/08 In the mean time items such as the Glove box lid are blasted, repaired and prepared for Primer. Belmont Glove box lids are quite rare - so I am doing two at the same time - one for a spare or for sale.
The Ute shell is now ready for final wet rubbing so a lot of careful masking ensures there is no sludge laden water that will enter nooks and crannies. Date: 11/11/08 The Ute shell is now ready for final wet rubbing so a lot of careful masking ensures there is no sludge laden water that will enter nooks and crannies.
This masking will keep the majority of the water out and in the tray I have used black rag material to catch any droplets of rubdown splurry. Why no plastic in here? Well its a bit risky hoping the masking wont let go and with only material in there to Date: 11/11/08 This masking will keep the majority of the water out and in the tray I have used black rag material to catch any droplets of rubdown splurry. Why no plastic in here? Well its a bit risky hoping the masking wont let go and with only material in there to protect the tray Im going to be less likely to be liberal with the water. - Yep I even use reverse psychology on myself....
With everything rubbed down - its into the booth for assembly of all the panels back onto the car. This is necessary for metallic paint jobs to ensure there is no mismatched panels Date: 11/11/08 With everything rubbed down - its into the booth for assembly of all the panels back onto the car. This is necessary for metallic paint jobs to ensure there is no mismatched panels
A very long day masking it all up. This procedure is ultra important to get right - this is what makes or breaks a perfect job. Note the painted areas have been rubbed down again - more paint will go over this- but at least I know I have adequate coverag Date: 11/11/08 A very long day masking it all up. This procedure is ultra important to get right - this is what makes or breaks a perfect job. Note the painted areas have been rubbed down again - more paint will go over this- but at least I know I have adequate coverage now.
Some areas like the cowl vent holes wont be getting more colour as we dont want to risk dust particles coming out of these areas into the final exterior paint. Lots of "Vortex" or soft edge masking - which basically is tape partially folded ove Date: 11/11/08 Some areas like the cowl vent holes wont be getting more colour as we dont want to risk dust particles coming out of these areas into the final exterior paint. Lots of "Vortex" or soft edge masking - which basically is tape partially folded over itself to create flap. The paint spray wafts under the resulting flap and creates a soft edge.
The black spots is etch primer- its inevitable that there will always be the odd rub through an edge to bare steel. The etch primer is perfect for sealing those areas up agian. Even thoughthecar is rubbed down - a reflective sheen can be seen in the bo Date: 11/11/08 The black spots is etch primer- its inevitable that there will always be the odd rub through an edge to bare steel. The etch primer is perfect for sealing those areas up agian. Even thoughthecar is rubbed down - a reflective sheen can be seen in the booth lights. We use that reflection to make sure the surface is perfect and free from scratches or other missed blemishes.
The inside lip is where most painters will mask too - we elected to take it right down into the tray to where the inner panels are fixed - thus avoiding any subtle colour differences in how the paint is laid on. Metallic's are pretty unforgiving. Its goi Date: 11/11/08 The inside lip is where most painters will mask too - we elected to take it right down into the tray to where the inner panels are fixed - thus avoiding any subtle colour differences in how the paint is laid on. Metallic's are pretty unforgiving. Its going to make final spray a little trickier- but worth it for a better result.
Although I have done all the painting up to now- its time to hand over to Graham for final top coat. I am quite capable of painting - but horses for courses- this is what Graham excels at so I let him at it. Its a team effort that makes the difference h Date: 11/11/08 Although I have done all the painting up to now- its time to hand over to Graham for final top coat. I am quite capable of painting - but horses for courses- this is what Graham excels at so I let him at it. Its a team effort that makes the difference here at Streetneat. This takes the pressure off me and enables me to assist with getting more important things done - like beer purchasing. Grahams not very good at beer purchasing so I was the man for the job apparently
With the basecoat on and no problems so far - Time for a beer while the basecoat cures up. Keeping the painter relaxed is important for a top job. Its a bit of a balance between beers- we dont want him too relaxed! Date: 11/11/08 With the basecoat on and no problems so far - Time for a beer while the basecoat cures up. Keeping the painter relaxed is important for a top job. Its a bit of a balance between beers- we dont want him too relaxed!
The bascoat now shows of just how straight I have got this Ute- years of hard work starting to show. Date: 11/11/08 The bascoat now shows of just how straight I have got this Ute- years of hard work starting to show.
Well its finally wearing all the same colour 'n clear. As good as this turned out- thats not the final paint job! Nope- theres more to come yet...
Note the plastic masking envolopes all the underside of the car. No risk of overspray anywhere here!
Date: 11/11/08 Well its finally wearing all the same colour 'n clear. As good as this turned out- thats not the final paint job! Nope- theres more to come yet...
Note the plastic masking envolopes all the underside of the car. No risk of overspray anywhere here!
The entire car was dismatled one more time , rubbed down one more time and re masked then flow coated with more clear. The results are stunning to say the least and well worth the extra week of work. Date: 11/11/08 The entire car was dismatled one more time , rubbed down one more time and re masked then flow coated with more clear. The results are stunning to say the least and well worth the extra week of work.
The sides are looking arrow straight. But once again this isntthe finished article. After curing up overnight it will be rubbed own and buffed before it gets too hard with proper curing. Date: 11/11/08 The sides are looking arrow straight. But once again this isntthe finished article. After curing up overnight it will be rubbed own and buffed before it gets too hard with proper curing.
The car has been given a light 2000 blocking back - being very carefull not to cut through - then Graham goes over the job with a micro fine palm sander wearing a 3000 grade abralon disc. Date: 11/11/08 The car has been given a light 2000 blocking back - being very carefull not to cut through - then Graham goes over the job with a micro fine palm sander wearing a 3000 grade abralon disc.
The sander takes out any fine scratches from the 2000 and any inclusions in the paint - not that we had many of those- the booth was equipped with new filters to ensure a dust free environment. After this stage Graham spent the next few hours buffing w Date: 11/11/08 The sander takes out any fine scratches from the 2000 and any inclusions in the paint - not that we had many of those- the booth was equipped with new filters to ensure a dust free environment. After this stage Graham spent the next few hours buffing with several different grades of compound, pads and polish.
All the loose panels received the same careful masking, and final clear coat. They too also received a final rubdown and buffing to a mirror finish. Date: 11/11/08 All the loose panels received the same careful masking, and final clear coat. They too also received a final rubdown and buffing to a mirror finish.
These panels are now as perfect as they can be. The tailgate didnt really need final wet rubbing so was only buffed. Date: 11/11/08 These panels are now as perfect as they can be. The tailgate didnt really need final wet rubbing so was only buffed.
With the final buffing out of the way - some assembly can finally take place. The chrome works well with this colour. You will note the roof is masked off in the background- during assembly I noticed a minor rub through near the gutter- barely noticeab Date: 11/11/08 With the final buffing out of the way - some assembly can finally take place. The chrome works well with this colour. You will note the roof is masked off in the background- during assembly I noticed a minor rub through near the gutter- barely noticeable- but enough to make me want to paint the roof again - so we did!. Painting cars is a process of elimination- sometimes it takes few applications to get the best results when you are chasing perfection.
All new zinc plated hardware is used throughout this car. The inner guard rubber is held on with recycled and zinc plated clips- they will never be seen again - but wont go rusty either. Date: 11/11/08 All new zinc plated hardware is used throughout this car. The inner guard rubber is held on with recycled and zinc plated clips- they will never be seen again - but wont go rusty either.
Slowly coming back together. The final panel to be fitted is the guard. Date: 11/11/08 Slowly coming back together. The final panel to be fitted is the guard.
Before the guards are fitted- the perimeters where it meets the body is given a liberal application of butyl mastic- or windscreen sealant - this will ensure we have no leaks. Date: 11/11/08 Before the guards are fitted- the perimeters where it meets the body is given a liberal application of butyl mastic- or windscreen sealant - this will ensure we have no leaks.
The tops of the inner guards also receive mastic - especially over the new clips- this will help seal out any potential moisture- not that I plan on driving in the wet much! Date: 11/11/08 The tops of the inner guards also receive mastic - especially over the new clips- this will help seal out any potential moisture- not that I plan on driving in the wet much!
The NOS Belmont badges are re instated - this helps greatly with breaking up the otherwise clean sides. Date: 11/11/08 The NOS Belmont badges are re instated - this helps greatly with breaking up the otherwise clean sides.
Every aspect of this car is like new- including all the parts inside the door- everything is zinc plated or painted. Date: 11/11/08 Every aspect of this car is like new- including all the parts inside the door- everything is zinc plated or painted.
Most shops dont bother with painting in behind the door cards- I put the same effort into this area as I have on the exterior of the car. Plenty of rustproofing going inside the doors too- here I am part of the way through doing just that. You can see th Date: 11/11/08 Most shops dont bother with painting in behind the door cards- I put the same effort into this area as I have on the exterior of the car. Plenty of rustproofing going inside the doors too- here I am part of the way through doing just that. You can see the two toning a little clearer here on the door tops.
Headlining material is used on for sealing up the insides of the doors - exctly the same as the factory did. Hanging onto the donor cars for so long was a good idea. Date: 11/11/08 Headlining material is used on for sealing up the insides of the doors - exctly the same as the factory did. Hanging onto the donor cars for so long was a good idea.
Being a Belmont - no frill here- not even a heater or radio. This may change later- but for now I am happy to see the stark look of a Belmont. Primarily this car is for racing so I dont really need such luxuries. Less to go wrong too! Date: 11/11/08 Being a Belmont - no frill here- not even a heater or radio. This may change later- but for now I am happy to see the stark look of a Belmont. Primarily this car is for racing so I dont really need such luxuries. Less to go wrong too!
Now the reason for the two toning becomes obvious- with the re made Belmont door cards in place - the colour blends in as it should. If I had brought the exterior colour in this far it would have clashed and looked wrong. Date: 11/11/08 Now the reason for the two toning becomes obvious- with the re made Belmont door cards in place - the colour blends in as it should. If I had brought the exterior colour in this far it would have clashed and looked wrong.
Dale from Annvids has finally shown up to fit the hoodlining- which is new old stock. Careful glue application is critical- I wont let any upholsterer near one of my cars with a glue gun in hand! Dale did a op job of installing the hood lining - and jus Date: 11/11/08 Dale from Annvids has finally shown up to fit the hoodlining- which is new old stock. Careful glue application is critical- I wont let any upholsterer near one of my cars with a glue gun in hand! Dale did a top job of installing the hood lining - and just in time too as the windscreens went in while he was finishing off.
The hoodlining has to be feed into its final position with great care- as its the only one left in existence in this colour- it was crucial no rips or tears occurred. Im happy to report it fits like a new one- well it is! Date: 11/11/08 The hoodlining has to be feed into its final position with great care- as its the only one left in existence in this colour- it was crucial no rips or tears occurred. Im happy to report it fits like a new one- well it is!
The front bar I had purchased around 3 years ago finally gets assembled using NOS brackets I have had zinc plated and powder coated. Date: 11/11/08 The front bar I had purchased around 3 years ago finally gets assembled using NOS brackets I have had zinc plated and powder coated.
Bumper bolts are originals I have recycled, zinc plated then polished the stainless heads on. The inside of the bar is painted silver to help seal it up. Date: 11/11/08 Bumper bolts are originals I have recycled, zinc plated then polished the stainless heads on. The inside of the bar is painted silver to help seal it up.
Well this is the Ute finished for now. Some minor things to be sorted as always with freshly built cars- but overall the list is growing smaller by the day. The colour is quite strange - it changes dramatically depending on the light Date: 12/11/08 Well this is the Ute finished for now. Some minor things to be sorted as always with freshly built cars- but overall the list is growing smaller by the day. The colour is quite strange - it changes dramatically depending on the light
Kim takes it for a spin for the photos- she eventually sorted out the seat belt... Date: 12/11/08 Kim takes it for a spin for the photos- she eventually sorted out the seat belt...
On the road the car not only looks good- but drives like new as well. Date: 12/11/08 On the road the car not only looks good- but drives like new as well.
From this angle - you wouldn't know what body style the car was... Date: 12/11/08 From this angle - you wouldn't know what body style the car was...
...even as it gets closer... Date: 12/11/08 ...even as it gets closer...
Yep its a Ute! Date: 12/11/08 Yep its a Ute!
Looking quite at home in this peaceful rural setting. Date: 12/11/08 Looking quite at home in this peaceful rural setting.
The stance from the rear suggests that this isnt its regular boots...and that exhaust also suggests that it hauls more than just hay.... Date: 12/11/08 The stance from the rear suggests that this isnt its regular boots...and that exhaust also suggests that it hauls more than just hay....
Back on the farm - and back where it was photographed decades ago. The Blue is truly remarkable the way it changes hues - it almost appears to be glowing. Date: 12/11/08 Back on the farm - and back where it was photographed decades ago. The Blue is truly remarkable the way it changes hues - it almost appears to be glowing.
With a hint of sun coming out its one distinct colour... Date: 12/11/08 With a hint of sun coming out its one distinct colour...
..and with the sun disappearing again - it changes to a deeper hue of blue green... Date: 12/11/08 ..and with the sun disappearing again - it changes to a deeper hue of blue green...
to a completely different hue altogether from what it started as a few minutes earlier. Date: 12/11/08 to a completely different hue altogether from what it started as a few minutes earlier.
Gotta love the Streetneat Grill. There are no badges or other adornments going on here. Clean and simple is the Belmont theme I have stuck to. Date: 12/11/08 Gotta love the Streetneat Grill. There are no badges or other adornments going on here. Clean and simple is the Belmont theme I have stuck to.
And with the sun peering out again - the colour flips back its silvery hues again. Date: 12/11/08 And with the sun peering out again - the colour flips back its silvery hues again.
The floor is as per original. A little more grey sealant to apply around the edges yet but otherwise finished. The colour is the original chocolate brown all the commercial HG's came with. I wasnt convinced it was the right choice until I saw it with the Date: 12/11/08 The floor is as per original. A little more grey sealant to apply around the edges yet but otherwise finished. The colour is the original chocolate brown all the commercial HG's came with. I wasnt convinced it was the right choice until I saw it with the Blue. I have heard all the suggestions before of"Why didnt ya do an aluminum checker plate floor ?"or "Why didnt ya do a polished timber floor"?
well the answer is pretty simple- I dont do what everyone else does - I do what works with the theme of the build and what I want. It sounds like an oxymoron- but it takes imagination to come up with something different as no change at all from stock. Folk tend to change for the sake of change. I quite like my choice - and most of the feedback I have so far is: "Well you dont expect it to work - but it does... I like it."
So do I...
Inside it plain Belmont simple. Very low maintenance - yet very startling with its 'Twilight Blue' mostly NOS interior. Date: 12/11/08 Inside it plain Belmont simple. Very low maintenance - yet very startling with its 'Twilight Blue' mostly NOS interior.
The GTS dash is the only deviation from being completely Plain - yet I dont feel it takes away from the flavour. I have yet to install the choke cable to fill the void - its also NOS yet obviously wont be connected. Date: 12/11/08 The GTS dash is the only deviation from being completely Plain - yet I dont feel it takes away from the flavour. I have yet to install the choke cable to fill the void - its also NOS yet obviously wont be connected.
The very plain no frills heater/radio fascia - without heater or radio... so I guess its just a centre dash fascia now. Date: 12/11/08 The very plain no frills heater/radio fascia - without heater or radio... so I guess its just a centre dash fascia now.
An accurate comparison - a storm cloud lurks behind this Belmont... Date: 12/11/08 An accurate comparison - a storm cloud lurks behind this Belmont...
Take note of panel gaps and alignment - this didnt just happen - but a lot of effort was put into finessing what the factory had missed. Date: 12/11/08 Take note of panel gaps and alignment - this didnt just happen - but a lot of effort was put into finessing what the factory had missed.
Well in case you didnt already know - we have moved to NZ and four of our precious cars were carefully packed into our two big brown 40 ft suitcases. The Everything amazingly stayed as we had packed it. The HG Ute made the trip to NZ unscathed except Date: 28/01/09 Well in case you didnt already know - we have moved to NZ and four of our precious cars were carefully packed into our two big brown 40 ft suitcases. Everything amazingly stayed as we had packed it.(something to be said for overkill!) The HG Ute made the trip to NZ unscathed except for one small paint rub through inside a front wheel arch lip from a strap buckle - easily fixed.
Kim makes a quick inspection of the cargo - we have to unpack this so the car can go straight onto a hoist for the MAF (quarantine) inspection. The Ute is so clean and new the MAF officer made the comment once underneath- "What am I doing under Date: 28/01/09 Kim makes a quick inspection of the cargo - we have to unpack this so the car can go straight onto a hoist for the MAF (quarantine) inspection. The Ute is so clean and new the MAF officer made the comment once underneath- "What am I doing under here?". We are not permitted to photograph this procedure - but am happy to report that all our cars and personal effects passed with a thumbs up!
After inspection it was off to live at Nostalgia Motors for the next few weeks to gain its Kiwi citizenship. I'm also happy to report that it went through that procedure quite OK in the end and gained rego.
The Ute has gained its Kiwi citizenship and rego. It was quite a process and paper chase - but eventually it passed with flying colours. Its far cheaper to register a car here than in QLD! Date: 15/03/09 The Ute has gained its Kiwi citizenship and rego. It was quite a process and paper chase - but eventually it passed with flying colours. Its far cheaper to register a car here than in QLD!
On the banks of the Waikato in Ngaruawahia. For now it has to wear regular NZ plates- custom ones are not high on the priority list just now. Date: 15/03/09 On the banks of the Waikato in Ngaruawahia. For now it has to wear regular NZ plates- custom ones are not high on the priority list just now.
Further along the banks of the Waikato we start to get into Maori territory. The local Maori kids made plenty of cheeky requests to buy it as they thought I was photographing it for Trade Me - a NZ based EBay style website. Date: 15/03/09 Further along the banks of the Waikato we start to get into Maori territory. The local Maori kids made plenty of cheeky requests to buy it as they thought I was photographing it for Trade Me - a NZ based EBay style website.
The Railway bridge in the background is a popular if not illegal diving platform - also an interesting backdrop for my Ute I figured. Date: 15/03/09 The Railway bridge in the background is a popular if not illegal diving platform - also an interesting backdrop for my Ute I figured.
The wall art is definitive of the proud and strong Maori Culture in Ngaruawahia. Date: 15/03/09 The wall art is definitive of the proud and strong Maori Culture in Ngaruawahia.
Any more realism and the Ute would be getting wet! Date: 15/03/09 Any more realism and the Ute would be getting wet!
With our farm and house renos taking up all our time, the HG Ute has been sitting in storage. As it was a fine NZ Sunday I decided it was time to bring the Ute home at last... well out to its new home for a visit anyhow as the Sheds here area long way Date: 15/03/09 With our farm and house renos taking up all our time, the HG Ute has been sitting in storage. As it was a fine NZ Sunday I decided it was time to bring the Ute home at last... well out to its new home for a visit anyhow as the Sheds here area long way from being ready to house our cars.
Thundering through the hills of Waingaro was a blast to say the least. The Shed options still aren't so great here other than for some classic photo opportunities Date: 15/03/09 Thundering through the hills of Waingaro was a blast to say the least. The Shed options still aren't so great here other than for some classic photo opportunities
Yes the fuel bowser came with the place. Its exactly on the fence line and beyond repair so I figured it should stay just where it is. The wood shed isn't mine but the firewood is. I'm not one for wasting dead sheds... Date: 15/03/09 Yes the fuel bowser came with the place. Its exactly on the fence line and beyond repair so I figured it should stay just where it is. The wood shed isn't mine but the firewood is. I'm not one for wasting dead sheds...
Another dead shed thats not mine - but opens onto my side . The way the farms out here were divided up is beyond belief. Basically the neighbors have no access to their own sheds as directly in behind is a creek. So for now I have cleaned the area up Date: 15/03/09 Another dead shed thats not mine - but opens onto my side . The way the farms out here were divided up is beyond belief. Basically the neighbors have no access to their own sheds as directly in behind is a creek. So for now I have cleaned the area up as its us that has to look at it. Anyhow its all the old buildings that adds to the rustic charm of the place out here.
The roof of this shed had collapsed - so take note of the rather ordinary temporary repair we had done so we could clean out the blackberry. I wont be parking anything in here! Date: 15/03/09 The roof of this shed had collapsed - so take note of the rather ordinary temporary repair we had done so we could clean out the blackberry. I wont be parking anything in here!
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